just won a 2000 explorer gt40p engine

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...0369109557&sspagename=STRK:MEWNX:IT&viewitem=


i won it for $580. is that a good price for a 54K mile engine?


EDIT: Feelers are not permitted on the boards

Good score, what you gonna drop it in? Also you cant do feelers or for sale ads in the forums

IBTL. yeah, thats a pretty good price if you are looking for a new motor. if you just wanted the heads and intake you overpaid

oh i forgot. sorry about that. i keeping thinking its only for the tech forum. but anyways. in all it will be $725. thats for everything. shipping too. so all i need is my oil pan, timing cover and brackets? since its not egr how do i hook that stuff up. this is the first time im doing a swap like this.

Just don hook the EGR stuff up

Whats it going in?

going in an 87 mustang.

put a cam in it for sure while you can

ok i have a melling performance cam i got really cheap. on the box it says cam lift .281 .296. valve lift .450 .474. lobe ctr 107 117. lash hot hyd hyd(i guess it stands for hydraulic.) sae duration280 int 290 eyh. .050 duration- 204 int 214 exh. sae timing btc-28 abc-72 bbc-77 atc-33
.050 timing- btc (-5) abc 29 bbc 44 atc(-10) would that work?

yes. upgrade the springs as well. and get some 1.6 or 1.7 rocker rollers.

edit: you will need longer pushrods as well.

"edit: you will need longer pushrods as well."

???

any one no the specs on the explorer cam? I got a low mileage short block for $200. Got the gtps, lower intake an injectors. I put the heads on my 87 block an I'm saving the explorer block to build a stroker with.

damn it. push rods? what kind? i need some really cheap ones cause after i get this one im going to be broke. do you need to take the heads off to install the pushrods? i do alot of mechanical stuff but i havent gotten that deep yet.

IMO, $725 is a bit steep, even including shipping. I picked up an Explorer engine for around $500 and truck freight shipping was only $75. I had to pick it up from a local FedEx terminal, since it was on a pallet and I don't have a loading dock at my house.

And why is that? I need different pushrods, but I have TF heads.

its a low mileage engine. has 55k on it. thats almost new to me. plus i need reliable transportation and i have to hurry and get my car back on the road cause i dont know how long my 99 camaro will last. the oil gauge is jumping.

I just got done doing the swap on my mustang. Here are my recommendations

1)stock pushrods will work fine

2)change the cam. Even a stock HO cam is better than the exploder cam

3)Get a MAM and/or dyno tune. Mine runs funny because the C&L 73mm doesnt agree with the stock computer / tune. Im running the stock 55 mm behind my 70mm TB and the rest of a potentially 300 hp engine and its still not right.

4)You probably overpaid, however, i would glady have paid a few hundred more for my project and had the ability to just swap engines. It took me a long time to do the swap with the engine in the car, my back was always hunched over the fenders, and i had to be pretty meticulous about not dropping crud into the combustion chambers or the oil pan. Swappin the whole shabang wouldve chaved alot of time.

5)You can buy EGR compatable intakes. My 99 exploder engine had EGR ports in it and the bosses cast, but not drilled/tapped. I still have it if you want to buy it off of me. I ended up buying one that was looked over by Tom Moss. Try to sell your intake for one that is EGR compatable.

6)I have BBK unequal shorties and they tight on cylinders 6, 7, and 8. Especially 7. Get P specifics if you can, otherwise, cheat like i did and do a temporary solution of flipping the spark plug wire around. Once they burn up my money tree should have sprouted a few more leaves for me to pluck.

i would never sit here and tell a guy to change out a cam and lifters and then NOT check pushrod length, no matter how well known the combination is, especially when he's saying he needs this motor to be reliable and needs his car back on the road ASAP... ALWAYS check pushrod length, better safe than sorry man

I didnt need any longer pushrods on my Explorer engine, even though I got new ones anyway. Change the cam and springs for sure, and get some valve stem seals while you're in there. The TFS spring kit comes with the valve seals.

I think I got my Explorer engine for around $450, I had it shipped to the loading dock at the parts store my buddy works at; so I saved on shipping.

.422/.448; 256/266; 116 lobe ctr ...according to this printout I have.

I would not use this cam. It is not a hydraulic roller. The stock Mustang cam probably has a more aggressive lobe profile than this cam. This cam also has the old 302 firing order and the Ford roller cam uses the 351 firing order. You would need to rewire your injectors to use a non roller cam. You will need a set of standard hydraulic lifters as well as longer pushrods since the regular non-roller cams are usually grounnd on a small base circle as opposed the roller cams large base circle.

They blow. They are notious for leaking. The last engine i used the TFS spring kit with and used the valve seals did eventually end up showing signs they were leaking