How important is changing your K member? I have the MM chassis stiffening system plus I am having the suspension kit put on it as well. Only thing untouched is the K member and the front A-arms. Don't plan on racing it just was looking to upgrade my car performance wise so it will be faster and quicker. How bad do I actually need something like this?
K Member
- Thread starter Jontue Harris
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No, no racing at all maybe a lil street fun but thats it.. So then I should be good with the stiffening system and stock kmember is what your saying? What about the clearance on the headers plan on shorty equal lengths?
If you ever take out your motor out its probably worth changing. I changed mine when the motor was out and repainted the engine bay.
Just wondering if its a tight squeeze with aftermarket headers? You seem like you know alot listen to this..... what kind of setup should I be going with on my top end to be most efficient. I have the intake listed above gonna match that with edelbrock throttle body 7omm, also was going with the e303 cam because of emissions reasons (california) was at a cross between cylinder heads gt40p, gt40x, twisted wedge, or edelbrock . Thought about AFR's but maybe a little to much for my application. Also was gonna go bbk headers and the rest of the exhaust flowmaster with 40 series? Im very novice at this anything thought would help. Thank you in advance.
Access to everything in the engine bay is easier from the sides and underneath with an aftermarket K-member, you might save 35+ lbs, some of them give you improved suspension geometry, and you get rid of the bermuda triangle socket-hiding shelf, but it's a solid 8 hours of work to install. Only you can say if it's worth it.
8 if you pull the motor out about 3 if you use an engine cradle. But I would only do it pulling motor personally. I've done them with cradles but you can do other stuff like clean the engine bay with it out. But I agree it does open everything up for sure...
foxna6
Member
There's tons of foxes run 10's or faster with the stock k member so I don't real see why you would need to replace it on your car if its just cruiser
jdb3rd
Member
Sharad
ALWAYS choose the V over the P!!! Wait... what?
Looks like it's pretty much unanimous, but I'll still throw in my two cents.
Sure a tubular k-member is lighter and gives you more working room, but it's not like it's mandatory for a sporty street car. As others have said, I definitely recommend upgrading to a tubular k-member, but it's something I would do when you're already doing other work in the same area. (engine or suspension swap in the front end)
Sure a tubular k-member is lighter and gives you more working room, but it's not like it's mandatory for a sporty street car. As others have said, I definitely recommend upgrading to a tubular k-member, but it's something I would do when you're already doing other work in the same area. (engine or suspension swap in the front end)
bentley429isBAC
10 Year Member
Its a piece of cake to put in. I did mine with the engine in the car. Took 2 nights after work, probably about 6 hours. Dropped some weight of the front, and a lot more clearance. No reason not to do it.
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