LCA install more than I expected

I just wanted to share my experience changing the lower control arms on my 2004 GT. I'm not the most mechanically inclined, but if I can take it apart, I can get it back together. The new air compressor and air tools I got for Christmas, thanks to my wife, made this much easier. I used a couple of different sets of instructions that I found searching on this site.

I jacked it up and put jack stands under the frame, so this can be done at home in the driveway. I took off the wheels and unbolted the rear sway bar. You also have to disconnect two mounts for the brake line. The one up front blocks the front LCA bolt. I put a jack under the control arm below the spring. I jacked it up enough to put just a little tension on the spring to keep it from flying out at me. I removed the rear bolt from the LCA first.

I then unbolted the front, which is a PITA I might add. The bolt pulls out towards the middle of the car, right into the muffler. I've read that some people remove or just loosen their catback enough to slide it out of the way. I'm stubborn and managed to get away with doing neither. I pushed sideways on the muffler and pulled it down just a little which allowed me to slide the bolt out of the frame.

I had to pry on the LCA a little and after I lowered the jack, the spring pushed it right out. The new one was an experience installing. This should have been straightforward, except that I must have thrown away one of the metal sleeves with the box the new LCAs came in. I had unpacked them the day prior, trash day. These fit inside the bushing to keep the bolt from eating the bushing up. I applaud anyone who has ever taken one of these from the stock LCA and reused it. I tried to hammer it out, drill out parts of the old rubber bushing, I used a C-clamp...nothing worked. I ran through two batteries in the cordless drill and my POS C-clamp bent. It was just a little one that I used for compressing brake calipers in the past, so no big loss. That thing sucked like a $3 prostitute. No, I haven't visited a prostitute, but I thought the analogy applied here.

After getting really pissed off, which didn't help, I decided to go a redneck. I planned to burn out the rubber bushing with a small torch, like one that you use for working with small plumbing jobs. I headed to Home Depot and found something different. After arriving in the plumbing section, I then decided to get a really thick piece of steel pipe and cut it with a hacksaw. I didn't even have to do that. They had fittings and such, one of which happened to be a perfect 3 inches long. Needless to say, I'd spent more than an hour and a half working on trying to get out an old one, when I spent $.86 on this piece of pipe fitting. I pressed it into the bushing and voila, you can't tell the difference. It's just as thick and the perfect fit.

Everything else went back in just in reverse. The rear swaybar was harder to line up into the mounting holes, but it all went back together nicely. I did have to pry on the rear of the LCA when jacking it back up into place. Though I can't frequent a track, I can say my traction has definitely improved from a launch. I don't spin all the way through first now. I know my crappy street tires have a lot to do with that though.

My suggestions to anyone doing this at home: make sure you have everything, some deep or medium sockets, an impact wrench helps, a pry bar doesn't hurt, and beer...to drown your sorrows.
 
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Installed my MM LCA's this weekend too. Everything went smooth at first. The drivers side LCA went in like butta, then came the passenger side. :nonono:

We got the chasis end of the LCA bolted in (of course we didnt torque it yet), and then seated the spring and started jacking the LCA. When we finally got it jacked where it needed to be, the bushing on the axle end of the LCA was no where near lined up with the holes in the axle. It took us a good 2 hours dicking with this thing. Finally, we got it, but im too lazy to go into detail of how we got it. It was a PITA.

But, now it feels like the car is being pushed a little bit when I get on the throttle after shifting. Weird :shrug:
 
bakos24 said:
Great, Cant wait till I do mine. :(
It's really not hard, we just ran into an alignment problem. The driverside was simple, passenger side was not :( Make sure you have deep well sockets, 18 and 21mm, extensions, 2 jacks would be nice, jackstands, all that good stuff. oh, and a friend (or even two) to help out.
 
helty said:
Installed my MM LCA's this weekend too. Everything went smooth at first. The drivers side LCA went in like butta, then came the passenger side. :nonono:

We got the chasis end of the LCA bolted in (of course we didnt torque it yet), and then seated the spring and started jacking the LCA. When we finally got it jacked where it needed to be, the bushing on the axle end of the LCA was no where near lined up with the holes in the axle. It took us a good 2 hours dicking with this thing. Finally, we got it, but im too lazy to go into detail of how we got it. It was a PITA.

But, now it feels like the car is being pushed a little bit when I get on the throttle after shifting. Weird :shrug:


That second one was a bitch.. I just hope it'll be easier when we do them on my car :D haha

propellerhead said:
:lol:

Nice write up! I'm almost ready to do mine. I just have to make a final decision on which LCAs to go with.

Maximum Motorsports.. they're top notch quality! :nice:
 
Ya and usually when doing these things long enough you end up getting the cool tools that help make things easier. My 20 ton press comes in quite handy to remove bushings and sleeves.
:OT: But the real fun toys are the welder and plasma cutter. :D :nice: With a forge, drill press, tubing bender and an assortment of cutting tools can do just about anything. And if something really pisses me off I can destroy it nicely!! :rlaugh:

Now if there was such a thing as a mandrel exhaust bender for under $1000. I'd be set. :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: Oh and rebuild the shop/shed to fit a lift. I am done welding while laying on my back!!
 
propellerhead said:
It depends on who and where you ask. Besides MM, there's Griggs, Global West, etc. MM and Global West's designs are almost identical but the bearing/bushing are on opposite sides. I'm still not sure which one is better for my driving style.
quit kidding yourself, get the MM's :D
 
Well i did mine 2 weeks ago. Installed MM and tokico at the same time. took me and just me cause i was alone, 4-5 hours in the garage. Had a little trouble with the front bolt ( muffler s in the way ) but took care of it by removing the catback hangers and prying the muffler slightly while removing the bolt.

havent road test it yet, still snow outside. everything fit well in place but havent been able to torque the front bolt. The car is not high enough to clear my 1/2 torque wrench. So i was woundering if torquing by hand should enough:shrug:
 
speed545 said:
Well i did mine 2 weeks ago. Installed MM and tokico at the same time. took me and just me cause i was alone, 4-5 hours in the garage. Had a little trouble with the front bolt ( muffler s in the way ) but took care of it by removing the catback hangers and prying the muffler slightly while removing the bolt.

havent road test it yet, still snow outside. everything fit well in place but havent been able to torque the front bolt. The car is not high enough to clear my 1/2 torque wrench. So i was woundering if torquing by hand should enough:shrug:


yeah you should be fine. just get it nice and tight.
 
propellerhead said:
It depends on who and where you ask. Besides MM, there's Griggs, Global West, etc. MM and Global West's designs are almost identical but the bearing/bushing are on opposite sides. I'm still not sure which one is better for my driving style.

:shrug: I don't know for sure, but it seems to me that having the spherical bushing on the axle end and the urethane bushing on the chassis end (like MM) would be better for nvh.

Lower control arms are high on my wish list. :nice:
 
helty said:
Installed my MM LCA's this weekend too. Everything went smooth at first. The drivers side LCA went in like butta, then came the passenger side. :nonono:

We got the chasis end of the LCA bolted in (of course we didnt torque it yet), and then seated the spring and started jacking the LCA. When we finally got it jacked where it needed to be, the bushing on the axle end of the LCA was no where near lined up with the holes in the axle. It took us a good 2 hours dicking with this thing. Finally, we got it, but im too lazy to go into detail of how we got it. It was a PITA.

But, now it feels like the car is being pushed a little bit when I get on the throttle after shifting. Weird :shrug:

I had a hard time getting mine lined up as well. I ended up strapping a come-a-long between the rear axle, and the front of the car, and pulling it forward until it lined up.
 
Well, I ran into that too. After I bolted up the front, I placed the spring on the LCA and a jack under it. When I jacked it up, it was about an inch behind the axle mount and 1/4 inch towards the inside. I jacked it up until just before it met the axle and used a really thick screwdriver with a long handle between the mount and the LCA. As I jacked it up the rest of the way, the LCA slid against the screwdriver and right into the mounting bracket. After part of it was in, I just pulled out the screwdriver and kept jacking up the LCA until the holes lined up.
 
i also ran into a few problems while doing my install ~8 months ago.
here are some more tips for anyone else planning to do their LCA install.

-be sure you use ALL the provided grease, and maybe a bit more on those polyurethane bushings. you dont want any squeaking.

-when you re-install the LCAs, slide the bolt in and lower the car so most of the weight is on the CA. then tighten the bolt. they bind if you tighten them in the air.

-i had to custom fab a tool to get the steel tube/bushing into the end of the control arm. its a half threaded bolt with a nut tightened all the way up the threads (halfway up the bolt itself). i then used a grinder to round off the edges of the nut so that the bolt would slide through the steel tube but the nut would push it into the bushing. i used a press too. not sure how everyone else is able to do the install w/o at least a vise:shrug: .

-be sure the pigtails (the end of the springs resting in the control arm seat) are pointing to the left when looking from the rear. i.e. they face the drivers side. not doing this will make the car not sit properly and/or will make both sides not even with each other.

those are just a few tips i can remember. i'll post more if somthing else pops into my mind
 
If you decide to replace the bushings in your front control arms with either delrin or urethane you have to pretty well burn the old ones out. If you decide to replace the bushings on the upper control arms (the axle side) buy the tool from Maximum motorsports. My thumb is still swollen. I bought the tool after the job,......

If you're burning anything, I sure I don't have to tell you to be carefull around fuel.