How hard is it to put in long tubes with out lifting the motor? Kinda late to ask I guess since the parts will be here today. If any one has done this let me know if there are any tricks to getting these mounted .
Thanks
Thanks
long tube headers install
- Thread starter wildstang90
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I don't know for sure about LTs, and it might matter what original equipment you still have in, but you might have to (at least) lift one side of the motor I imagine.
The easy way to go about it is tackle it one side at a time by unbolting ONE motor mount and jacking the motor so it leans to one side. Install the header, set the motor back down, bolt the mount back up, and repeat for the other side. Its really not a very difficult operation, just be patient. Make sure to lift the motor by something solid, I'd avoid the oil pan, etc. Also make sure not to pinch/tear/bend anything by leaning the motor too far.
Good luck!
The easy way to go about it is tackle it one side at a time by unbolting ONE motor mount and jacking the motor so it leans to one side. Install the header, set the motor back down, bolt the mount back up, and repeat for the other side. Its really not a very difficult operation, just be patient. Make sure to lift the motor by something solid, I'd avoid the oil pan, etc. Also make sure not to pinch/tear/bend anything by leaning the motor too far.
Good luck!
Thanks for the info. My headers and mid pipe came in with all the parts there (I have bad luck normaly something is missing) I have been working all day tring to get the old stuff out. It seems that some one befor me had an off road mid pipe in there befor since the hangers are cut off no biggie there but after removing the bots to the header flangs I found 1 that was striped all to hell (It had a leak some where looks like I found it) any way looks like it was crossthreaded that rounded off. The only thing I have is a dremel tool for cutting bolts with normaly works great but with this I cant get in there to cut it.
So any one got any tricks to cut bolts in very hard to get places ?
So any one got any tricks to cut bolts in very hard to get places ?
I was able to swap to LTs in my 88 coupe without unbolting the motor mounts. On the passenger side I dropped the starter and on the drivers side I unbolted the rag joint in the steering linkage. Dropped the headers in and reconnected the rag joint and put the starter back in.
lx93notch
New Member
a lot of people say that you should get a smaller starter and from my xperience i would go smaller cause' the heat from the lt's fried a starter on two cars that i kno of
Ok I droped the starter and pulled out the linkage on the drivers side. I guess my skills are not up to par casue I cant for the life of me get that either header in, on the driver side I have the brake MS in the way and for the other side I have there just dont seem to be the room needed. Any way I started with the motot mounts a little bit ago but starting to run outa daylight so I packed up(yea I am doing this **** out side in my drive way). Any way will start again in the morning.
I put in a minni starter a year ago since I knew LTs were going in.
I put in a minni starter a year ago since I knew LTs were going in.
89streetbeast
New Member
no matter who says what or why, you have to lift the motor to install a set of longtubes unless you drop the crossmember. stock stuff just dont give to make it a drop in and install. pass side is the worst if the starter is still on it. also depends on where the drivers side has where the steering shaft runs thru the tubes or if its like a set of hedmans where you dont have to unbolt it. either header is a beotch. i'd undo the 2 big nuts from the motor mounts, if you need to undo the steering shaft if required, you'll atleast need more than 5" of height from raising to install. just my .02
oh, make sure you take either the fan blade if stock off or just undo the shroud, it makes for a costly mistake lol.
oh, make sure you take either the fan blade if stock off or just undo the shroud, it makes for a costly mistake lol.As I said above when I did my LT swap with BBK 1 5/8" headers I did not have to lift the motor. I dropped the starter and disconnected the ragjoint on the steering column. So it has been done. Unfortunately cars have different tolerances during manufacture. I wish that the OP had as an easy of a swap as I did when I put LTs on. And if all else fails, as it has in this case, jacking up the motor will provide the clearance you need.
The condition of the motor mounts and how much the motor droops or leans (back) affects how easy they go in too. I struggled with worn out mounts on my header install.
I got my LTs mounted this afternoon. I did have to lift the motor up about 1.5 inches. After that they went in realy easy. Things I found out during the install I dont have normal motor mounts in the car there steel and I found that the lower bolt on the driverside was not even close to beeing tight. I guess the last guy that owned it did not worry about putting in back together befor he sold it. I have found alot since I have been working on the car that was half assed put together and to think I drove this as a daily driver for about 4 years.
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