Looks like I'm in the minority - MGW shifter isn't for me

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Mine was pretty hard to shift at first so I started taking creatine and all is well! All kidding aside, I liked it when I installed it from the start. It is a little short on the stance side but shifts smoother than a supermodel's butt. It definitely gets better after a few weeks. Good luck getting what you're looking for, I found mine.
 
I'm using the stock handle and isolator with the steeda tri-ax. Works great for comfort and is silent as stock. It is not as short or as precise as with the tri-ax handle, but it is a vast improvement over stock.
 
ronaldriske said:
I'm using the stock handle and isolator with the steeda tri-ax. Works great for comfort and is silent as stock. It is not as short or as precise as with the tri-ax handle, but it is a vast improvement over stock.

How did you make the stock handle work? I was just online thinking about using a Tri-Ax again, but I don't remember the bolts from the stock handle matching up with the Tri-Ax. :scratch:
 
todd4566 said:
How did you make the stock handle work? I was just online thinking about using a Tri-Ax again, but I don't remember the bolts from the stock handle matching up with the Tri-Ax. :scratch:
I'm confused as well. I thought the stockers had different bolt sizes that prevented this...
 
The Hurst isn't bad, but from what I'm seeing the Tri-Ax on the highest setting is probably the closest thing in the market to factory height. I would consider a Hurst with the chrome stick and retro white shift ball, but the Mach has a silver theme going on in the interior and I don't want to spoil it.
 
todd4566 said:
The Hurst isn't bad, but from what I'm seeing the Tri-Ax on the highest setting is probably the closest thing in the market to factory height. I would consider a Hurst with the chrome stick and retro white shift ball, but the Mach has a silver theme going on in the interior and I don't want to spoil it.
Here is mine:

newxmhome3.jpg
 
If you don't like the MGW based on effort and handle height, then get a Pro 5.0 and use the stock handle. You will need to call Pro 5.0 and get their spacers for the stock handle. You can't reuse the rubber isolators, however, go to Home Depot and get some rubber washers, put them between the handle and the shifter, it will act like the rubber isolator. I've done it, it's not bad. I just hated the rubbery feeling and tall handle.
 
Spreadman said:
If you don't like the MGW based on effort and handle height, then get a Pro 5.0 and use the stock handle. You will need to call Pro 5.0 and get their spacers for the stock handle. You can't reuse the rubber isolators, however, go to Home Depot and get some rubber washers, put them between the handle and the shifter, it will act like the rubber isolator. I've done it, it's not bad. I just hated the rubbery feeling and tall handle.

I'm thinking about doing that.. it's a debate between going with the Tri-Ax again, using a Pro5.0 (never used that one), or just rolling stock.

*When I called Pro5.0, I inquired if removing the shift stops was an option for Tremec 3650 applications - the guy said it's a common misconception that the Tremec won't benefit from shifter stops & that the Tremec does have internal stops buy not for the shift forks. I always figured having shifter stops set a few turns back from the gear engagement point could be beneficial, but what's the deal? So many people on here and other forums have removed the stops, but who's correct? The Pro5.0 guy made it sound like the 3650 needs the stops just as bad as the T5/T45's. :shrug:
 
todd4566 said:
*When I called Pro5.0, I inquired if removing the shift stops was an option for Tremec 3650 applications - the guy said it's a common misconception that the Tremec won't benefit from shifter stops & that the Tremec does have internal stops buy not for the shift forks. I always figured having shifter stops set a few turns back from the gear engagement point could be beneficial, but what's the deal? So many people on here and other forums have removed the stops, but who's correct? The Pro5.0 guy made it sound like the 3650 needs the stops just as bad as the T5/T45's. :shrug:
when i installed the MGW on my 3650 i stuck it in gear, installed the stops, and then backed them off a few threads and made sure the jam nut was good n tight so it didnt go traveling on me. :shrug:
 
todd4566 said:
I'm thinking about doing that.. it's a debate between going with the Tri-Ax again, using a Pro5.0 (never used that one), or just rolling stock.

*When I called Pro5.0, I inquired if removing the shift stops was an option for Tremec 3650 applications - the guy said it's a common misconception that the Tremec won't benefit from shifter stops & that the Tremec does have internal stops buy not for the shift forks. I always figured having shifter stops set a few turns back from the gear engagement point could be beneficial, but what's the deal? So many people on here and other forums have removed the stops, but who's correct? The Pro5.0 guy made it sound like the 3650 needs the stops just as bad as the T5/T45's. :shrug:

I'm using stops on my TR3650, but I have them back a bit farther than recommended, to avoid any mishaps. I have heard of it having the internal stops, but consider the shifter's stops as a backup if the internals get worn or fail.
 
Umm way not pick up a red handle? There were 2 forsale on the classified board. Also I bet if you contact George he might have some of the old blue or reds still in stock. :) just got my blue last week. :D So now I have both. With my UPR pistol grip the Red was too high IMO but the blue is just about perfect. Also with some driving they do become less effort.
 
helty said:
hey todd, i know you said the MGW isnt for you, and thats all gravy, just wanted to see if maybe this was an option for you? would give you better reach than the orange handle, and the added leverage may make the shifts a little easier. just throwing it out there for you.

http://www.mgwltd.com/mustang_shift_handle.html

That's a good idea, but it won't work with the MGW shifter. If I get a Tri-Ax or Pro5.0, that would be an option. :nice: Sux something like that isn't made to work on the MGW shifter. :(
 
git-it-83 said:
I'm using stops on my TR3650, but I have them back a bit farther than recommended, to avoid any mishaps. I have heard of it having the internal stops, but consider the shifter's stops as a backup if the internals get worn or fail.
I took the stops out like it said in the directions. Should i put them in and leave them out a couple of turns. I havnt had any problems yet but dont want to break anything. What do you think?
 
cobra2798 said:
I took the stops out like it said in the directions. Should i put them in and leave them out a couple of turns. I havnt had any problems yet but dont want to break anything. What do you think?

Like I have stated in a couple of other threads today (not talking about your question); everyone has their take on things.

I think having both there can't hurt. Even pulling like He-Man, I was only able to get the lever to touch the stop and that was a nut-busting even with both hands and leverage--very unlikely to be repeated while rowing through gears in the heat of battle.
But, if for some reason, the internal stops in the TR3650 should ever become worn or fail, I will have the stops set there to "catch me if I fall". You can never have too much protection. :nice:
Others are likely to disagree, but hey, that's their opinion. :)