My DIY turbo kit is underway...PICS!!!...AGAIN!!!
- Thread starter millhouse
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94Blue302GT
Member
he he, well when do you think you'll be done, wanna race to being done?
P60-1 hifi with B&G headers kit, tial wastegate, etc. etc. etc. ported and polished heads, custom upper intake.
Lee
P60-1 hifi with B&G headers kit, tial wastegate, etc. etc. etc. ported and polished heads, custom upper intake.
Lee
94Blue302GT said:
Lol, well…I imagine you have a HUGE advantage with yours being way…way way way way closer to you than mine. I'd say it will take me another 2-3 weekends, which equates to around 4-5 days worth of work. I'd have to say it will be on the road, not boosting the first weekend in may. The second weekend I should be able to pick up a maf and injectors so I can throw some boost at her.
94Blue302GT
Member
i'd say that YOU have the advantage....
while I may have the parts, my motor isn't in the car, i just reconstructed a side rail, i'm trying to figure out how to mount my headlights and fan, possibly goign to buy a TKO. I'll be done about middle to late may. And that's WITHOUT A paint job on my new fender, bumper and hood (stock, not body kit(
I kinda wrecked it, so i figured i'd turbo it while i was at it. it makes it a lot harder to get it going!
while I may have the parts, my motor isn't in the car, i just reconstructed a side rail, i'm trying to figure out how to mount my headlights and fan, possibly goign to buy a TKO. I'll be done about middle to late may. And that's WITHOUT A paint job on my new fender, bumper and hood (stock, not body kit(
I kinda wrecked it, so i figured i'd turbo it while i was at it. it makes it a lot harder to get it going!
BaXTeR3221 said:
Oh, as far as that goes...the only thing that will have to be modified is some of the wiring on the driverside and relocating the battery
.
My apology beforehand. I didnt realize the quality of the camera was set to low for the lastest pics.
More pics
The small out of place pipe is where my pro-m univer maf is going
And here is a closeup of my passenger side oil drain
The small out of place pipe is where my pro-m univer maf is going
And here is a closeup of my passenger side oil drain
Two things. Firstly, i thought turbo systems had to have a regular intake tube/filter before the turbo to take in air before it spools up? Secondly, did you weld to fitting into the pan? The reason i ask is i want to have my oil fitting welded in but i was told i couldn't get a brass fitting welded to a steal pan.
BaXTeR3221 said:
Turbo's need some sort of filter on the inlet side of the compressor. It could be a simple k&n filter or it could be pantyhose, chicken wire and a clamp. I myself just have not purchased a filter yet.
The fitting you see is a barbed 1/2" npt to 5/8" barbed fitting. You can pick them up at your local lowes or home depot in the pluming department. I bought a 1/2"npt tap at my local hardware store for $15. I made my own punch using a piece of .750 round stock…which happens to make the perfect size hole for the tap. It's actually quite easy, and is a very tight fit.
BaXTeR3221 said:Damn i was really trying to avoid dealing with tapping since no one i know has a big enough tapahhh well.
You can pick up the taps for less than $15 at your local hardware store...and then charge your friends to use it
Well, after yet another long weekend I got her back together. The battery is now in the trunk, and she fires right up. Seeing as I only had 87 octane in her, I cranked the timing down to 6* and put the spout back in. I took it for a spin. As I slowly rolled in third gear, she took off like a bat out of hell. The feeling after all my long weekends of work was incredible. The boost gauge was temporarily mounted on the dash, and it flew off onto the floor...so I have no clue what I was boosting. I do know that I was pulling 20in of vacume at idle. I also know that after getting on it for a few seconds, the dipstick tube blew out and proceeded to fill my car up with blue smoke. I guess I'll be needing a breather and a pcv check valve soon. I'll be going to get the car and drive it home next weekend...and by then I'll have a few of the finer details worked out.
Anyways, here is a final list of what's been done.
96 explorer engine
eddy performer intake
B&G Longtube twins
twin .60/.48 turbo's
2 1/2" 16 gauge mild steel downpipes
2 1/2" 16 guage mild steel turbo's to i/c
3" 16 gauge mild steel i/c to t/b
42lb injectors
walbro 255 fuel pump
3 1/2" pro-m univer (cal'd for the 42's and a 96 gt
)
3/16" brake lines for oil feed
5/8" hydraulic lines for oil drain
HTS silicone couplers/reducers
HTS T-Bolt clamps
FMS power steering relocation
Autolite 103 plugs gapped at .028
Msd coil and wires
DIY battery relocation
Tune: YTBD
I'll have pics and hopefully a video this weekend!!!
Anyways, here is a final list of what's been done.
96 explorer engine
eddy performer intake
B&G Longtube twins
twin .60/.48 turbo's
2 1/2" 16 gauge mild steel downpipes
2 1/2" 16 guage mild steel turbo's to i/c
3" 16 gauge mild steel i/c to t/b
42lb injectors
walbro 255 fuel pump
3 1/2" pro-m univer (cal'd for the 42's and a 96 gt
)3/16" brake lines for oil feed
5/8" hydraulic lines for oil drain
HTS silicone couplers/reducers
HTS T-Bolt clamps
FMS power steering relocation
Autolite 103 plugs gapped at .028
Msd coil and wires
DIY battery relocation
Tune: YTBD
I'll have pics and hopefully a video this weekend!!!
streetflossin
New Member
Ranchero5.0
The Voice of Reason
MIllhouse, welcome to the do it yourself club. For the dip stick popping out, you need to remove the hose from the throttle body to the valve cover oil fill (it allows boost pressure to pressurize the crankcase (very bad for seals etc)). Watch out for heat. The 3.8 fan will mostlikely not do the job anymore. I actually ended up with the stock shroud and fan setup on the Capri. Watch the driver downpipe around the brake lines (I suggest some 16ga aluminum sheetmetal shields for the brakes and the alternator.
Just some of my bad experiences...
For boost, should feel like a ton of bricks around 2500rpm. Just be sure the wastegates are hooked up to the correct location to get around 6psi and work out the bugs before getting greedy. Also expect head gasket failure a few times and at least annual teardowns to keep the beast running.
Jamie
Just some of my bad experiences...
For boost, should feel like a ton of bricks around 2500rpm. Just be sure the wastegates are hooked up to the correct location to get around 6psi and work out the bugs before getting greedy. Also expect head gasket failure a few times and at least annual teardowns to keep the beast running.
Jamie
Ranchero5.0 said:
I'll be running a valve cover breather and possibly a one way check vavle inline with the pcv. I had them on my to-do list, but quickly overlooked them when it came time to take it out for a spin.
I'll have to take that damn 3.8 sticker off of the fan shroud.
I do have a 3core radiator which should aid in the cooling. My fan is also wired to be always on with the turn of the key. I'll defiantly have to keep an eye on the temps though.As far as boost numbers go, I'm not sure what I should be boosting. With all the piping, the I/c and the flow masters… I would expect some pressure drop across the system. I'd be fine with apse, as I can always up the boost via a diy controller.
I don’t think the break lines will be a problem…although they are fairly close to the dip. I was considering some header wrap for several areas (brake lines included). For now I'm just going to see what happens.
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