my Mini Starter is not dis-engaging, tell me how to wire it right.

FiveOhhStang

New Member
Jan 27, 2003
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Sanger, Cali.
I did a search, and understand that my 94 starter im using on my FOX, is considered a Mini Torque Starter...I know something about how to wire is from what I searched here, but I dont understang....something about a thin/thick wire setup? All I know is I need to remove the wire going from the starter to the standard starter soleniod from the right post to the left post, and then wire the solenoid on the starter a different way..someone help! English peez! :flag:
 
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Yep, the big wire that goes to the starter needs to go on the same post on the original solenoid as the battery wire then another wire needs to be run from the original feed side of the solenoid (the one you took the big starter wire off of) to the new starter solenoid..

Or just follow this.... :D

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THe big wire (cable) should come off the hot post of the battery (or fender switch) so that it's hot all the time. The little wire should come off the switched side of the fender switch so that it's hot only when you turn the ignition key to "start". I think driftin's got you covered with great diagrams.
 
why do people retain the fender solenoid for switching (and keep it in series)? ive read of latching issues with using both solenoids (hit or miss problems with slow disengagment).

does anyone know if the integral solenoids draw more juice from the 'trigger wire' (the positive coil wire) than the oem fender solenoid does? if not, why not extend the OEM trigger wire down to the new solenoid, thus removing the switching necessities from the fender solenoid.

hmm, that was clear. not. :)
 
hissin - I asked the same question when I put mine in; confirm that it's theoretically possible to run the 'trigger' wire from the ignition switch straight to the starter internal solenoid. But you hit the issue on the head - the question is whether the internal solenoid current draw during starting will overwhelm the stock ignition switch and wiring circuit. I didn't want to chance it - so I left the fender switch in place. A small relay could also replace it.
 
This is the same information I was after when I did mine.. The stock ignition switch cannot handle the current involved in the pull of the solenoid, plain and simple....
You could convert to a bosch relay but I think the solenoid is used because its there..
 
Michael, and Driftin, thank you! i had a feeling that was the case, or else people would omit the fender solenoid for triggering. i too, just wanted to eliminate one source of a possible problem down the line (as you two did). now i know not to.

agreed again (about swapping one relay for another): why trade a known, decent (fender) relay, for a lamer, lighter weight, more likely to fail, 30 amp SPDT relay. makes perfect sense to me.

thanks again for the insight!!