So i drove for a little bit and the check engine light remained off for awhile but then one time after turning the car off and turning it back on about 45 minutes after the check engine light was back on with the same code.
The car runs so much better now and has started without any issues since the spark plug change.
Is it possible there is still something wrong or maybe it’s being triggered for some odd reason? Should I return the car to stock now to see if that fixes anything?
Hi, Glad it’s running better, was there any cracked porcelain on the Plugs? What color were the electrodes?
I apologize for the lapse.
Just an FYI, Any aftermarket ignition parts, Dizzy, TFI’s(to 95’ models), Coils, etc, in the big picture, are more likely to cause issues quite often when compared to OE products.
Doesn’t mean their all bad, but look in the archives, you’ll see this trend.
Reverting components back to OE parts many times cures the issue. A wiggle test may prove/disprove a possible a Coil’s connector or FDPM wire disturbed when you changed Plugs.
Is your spark strong, nice & fat/blue, what color were the plugs when pulled?
If you’re now running well & have the code popping up, along with some erratic yet within range fuel pressure PID’s from scanning, I’d do the comparison below.
You run a return-less system, the fuel pump is not operating at 100% of its power levels all the time.
It runs the pump at various power levels, via sensors input/output to keep up with the fuel demands of the motor.
Returnless systems are run by the FPDM (Fuel Pump Driver Module), which directly creates controls varying power levels to the pump. It may also be programmed to change values
A PPRV (Positive Pressure Relief Valve) controls, mechanically, the fuel system’s pressure, purging excess fuel & maintains pressure in the lines.
This Power isn’t conventional DC, it’s PWM (pulse width modulated) & requires an Oscilloscope or frequency counter, other means to see the changes in power, a regular VOM is useless, unless checking for power present, or not
The (Drivers side rail, center) to maintain the necessary volume under adequate pressure whether sitting or running. which allows for easy start-ups, prevents excessive fuel pressure in the lines.
I’d be comparing what the Scantool is relaying pressure, and plug in a gauge into the Schraeder valve on the line, to see how accurate the rail’s pressure gauge is. Gauges are cheap, and will tell you if your sensor is correct. A freeze frame with a Scantool hooked up will automatically record all data right before, when, after the CEL flashes.
As we’d discussed, as Onesick99GT
mentioned the Tune is increasing the Bolt-on gains, but unlikely a necessity with the Bolt-on’s viewed, and mentioned.
In regards to altering the tune, if you had this code popping from the onset of the car purchase, I’d have reflashed it with a new tune, which to my knowledge it did not.
it’s not ridiculous to return it to the. stock program, or even reflashing to the program its running, could be corrupt.
I’d pull the battery cable for 20 minutes & see how she runs after that.
One thing at a time, right? You’re gaining ground
Your reflash should be simple with the stock Tune, and it should run OK, nothing visible that would prevent that.
Any tuning questions or uncertainties, please post. If a question arises, stop & ask. We don’t even sell the X3 tuners any longer, most ly push for the WIFI Rev-X. But both work just fine providing updater files are the newest. Don’t create a new Email account with the Tuner, it’s still the property of the previous owner.
May not let you update,. I’ll PM you.
- Best! John
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