New 03 Cobra Shift Light, Chip, etc

Discussion in 'SVT Tech Forum' started by AmdMAN, May 25, 2006.


  1. Uncle Meat

    Uncle Meat Banned

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    Well supposedly your Ford service department can reflash a stock calibration back in, or so I'm told after doing a little research. Again, send a PM to svttech76, he can answer that for sure. Whether your local Ford service dept is willing to do it for you or not is a different story. I'm surprised the previous owner didn't provide the Predator or Xcal with the car since it is permanently married to it....

    U.M.
     
    #21
  2. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    Well I have been in boost like crazy in the past week and a half, because I had no idea it had a damn pulley. So if there is damage im sure its already done... I bought it at the local CarMax, so I am sure they didn't even know what a programmer was.... I guess I need to purchase the extended warranty before my 30 days are up, they sold the car, and promised to warranty it, its not my fault they didn't check to make sure it wasn't modified.
     
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  3. Uncle Meat

    Uncle Meat Banned

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    I guess you now need to update your sig. :rlaugh:

    U.M.
     
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  4. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: :rlaugh: LOL that is the truth isn't it.
     
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  5. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    U.M. or anyone who can help... Now that we have established the car has a pulley, etc... I am noticing some belt slip at about 5k to 6.5k rpms. I hear a loud screech at about that rpm and I notice the boost gauge goes from reading somewhere past ten, like 12 or 13 or so and starts coming down to about 7 or 8 at redline. Any ideas for me? Those guys put on the wrong belt before which was making a lot of noise, and they replaced it with one that doesn't make noise, but I think either they still don't have the size just right or I need a bigger idler. What size belt should be used for a car with a smaller pulley like that? Or would you suggest an idler?

    Thanks
     
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  6. Uncle Meat

    Uncle Meat Banned

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    Well if you are running a 2.93 and a stock lower with the stock idlers then the belt size required would be 74". Even if you added a 100MM upper idler you could still get by with a 74" belt, but you may want to step up to a 74.5. I would suggest replacing the upper idler with a good 100MM unit to enhance the wrap a little and then get the correct belt. What worries me more is that you admit you're experiencing belt slip at 5000-6500RPM's. I though we had established that you shouldn't be getting into boost, especially a LOT OF BOOST until you get the car checked out... I sure hope for your sake the car is tuned properly...

    U.M.
     
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  7. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    Thanks, I was having trouble finding the right belt sizes. Like I said, I have been driving this car in high boost for the past 2 weeks, so whatever is done is done.
     
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  8. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    DYNO!

    Got the dyno done. Disappointing to say the least. What do you guys think?
    Known Mods:

    2.93 Pulley
    Borla Catback
    Removed Silencer

    STOCK cars make more than this!

    [​IMG]
     
    #28
  9. Uncle Meat

    Uncle Meat Banned

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    Well that's a Mustang dyno which reads a bit lower than a dynojet. I'm more concerned with your A/F ratio! If I read that right your max A/F ratio was 22.0 :eek: and the average was 13.1 :eek: !!! You need to get that thing to a good tuner ASAP!!!

    U.M.
     
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  10. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    Now is that rich or lean? The damn exhaust kept blowing out the O2 sensor, so I think that is where it was blown out.
     
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  11. Uncle Meat

    Uncle Meat Banned

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    Lean.
     
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  12. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    It averaged it out to 13 because it blew the sensor out of the pipe at about 5250RPM's. The average is more around 12.
     
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  13. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    The first run I did (I apologize I don't have the scan with me) came out as follows:

    AFR MIN - 11.5 MAX - 13.4 AVG - 11.7

    Torque - 330 - 454 - 399

    HP - 179 - 384 - 319
     
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  14. Friedchicken

    Friedchicken Founding Member

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    I am betting that what you heard was not the tick, but detonation. What grade of gas did you put in? I'd have the plugs pulled and looked at.

    Your best bet at this point is to go after the warantee- but I could see them declining your warantee for modifications unless you had proof that the car came that way (engine pics at the car lot, previous service records..)

    I'd probably take the car to Ford and provide them with the laundry list before the 30 days are up.

    Good luck getting the warantee and good luck getting them to cover the repairs if there are any.

    Edit: Your numbers could be deflated due to belt slip and/or bad idlers or even not tuned to the gas in the car. That power level is pretty low for those mods.
     
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  15. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    We have a local guy who only does Ford SVT tuning. I am going to let him take a look at the dyno runs as well as the whole thing and general. I hear he is the best in the area. Sound like a good plan?
     
    #35
  16. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    Here is the 2nd Run, the O2 sensor didn't come out this time

    [​IMG]
     
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  17. Uncle Meat

    Uncle Meat Banned

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    Much better.... I'll bet if you were to take your car to a Dynojet instead of the Mustang dyno your numbers would be closer to everyone else with similar mods.

    U.M.
     
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  18. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    On average how much more HP is the dynojet vs the mustang?
     
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  19. Uncle Meat

    Uncle Meat Banned

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    There really isn't an absolute hard and fast rule like 10 or 15% more. These dyno's derive their power numbers using different methods. The Mustang dyno is regarded as being the more accurate of the two, but the dynoject is the de facto standard which everyone uses. Just for arguments sake you can use 10% more as a ball park figure...
    You need to find out for sure whether your ECM has been flashed or whether your tune is in fact due to a chip on the ECM's J3 port. I think you've got more power available left in your tune.

    U.M.
     
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  20. AmdMAN

    AmdMAN Founding Member

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    Sorry to bother you with this but is the J3 port very visible on the ECU? Like I said I had the kick panel off and couldn't see much of anything but I am not sure what to look for either.
     
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