New Build Slow Crank Hot Cables

onetricpony

New Member
Oct 5, 2014
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Just trying to finish up restoration. rebuilt motor and transmission. Just drilled out ignition and installed new key cylinder and ignition switch. Ignition problem or park neutral problem because key won't turn motor over so I'm jumping solenoid. first time I did it solenoid smoked so I've cleaned paint from behind solenoid, sanded it down to bare metal, installed new solenoid as well as new bolts. Now, no more smoke but slow turning over and the cables get hot. Pos cable from solenoid to battery gets warm. Pos cable connecting to starter is quite a bit warmer right at the starter connection. Starter is new.

I have sanded all grounds to bare metal. I did make a new ground wire from back of the starter bolt using 4 guage stranded wire (encased wire) does it matter which starter bolt on the end of the starter I use for ground?

I have the neg battery cable grounded to the block (sanded to bare metal) and I"m sharing that same ground spot with the starter. I did remove this ground to sand better and I switched the ground cables on that bolt, I put the neg battery cable up against the block and now it does actually turn over a couple revolutions now but that's it. You guys think this starter is bad? It came with the car but was never installed.

I have the old distributor installed (minus the cam gear) and I'm attempting to prime the motor with oil before I stab the distributor and try to start it

Thanks
 
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It could be a bad ground or a bad starter .A new motor may be a bit tight the first few times it is started also .Make sure the engine block has a ground from the motor to the body ,usually at the back of the head and attached to the fire wall .
Yes do prime the motor very well before starting .
Also check the starter solenoid wires and be sure they are on the correct post .
The key problem could be the neutral safety switch wires coming out of the fire wall ,make sure they are clean and connected well at the plug in.
 
Yes, the ground is there (back of head to firewall) took it off to day and sanded both ends to bare metal. Does it matter which bolt on the end of the starter I use for ground? for the starter ground I just bought some 4 guage stranded wire at home depot and put some good connectors on each end. it is shielded cable (standard 4 gauge electrical wire) does that matter? Starter is grounded to the same place on the block the neg cable connects, can they share this connection?
 
Yes, the ground is there (back of head to firewall) took it off to day and sanded both ends to bare metal. Does it matter which bolt on the end of the starter I use for ground? for the starter ground I just bought some 4 guage stranded wire at home depot and put some good connectors on each end. it is shielded cable (standard 4 gauge electrical wire) does that matter? Starter is grounded to the same place on the block the neg cable connects, can they share this connection?
The ground should be fine where it is ,normally it just grounds to the back of the motor so you should be well grounded .Is the starter new ,even though i have seen new starters that were bad ?
 
I would prime the motor very well ,remove the plugs ,and spray some light weight oil in the cylinders but not a lot .Two stroke oil would work .
spin it with the starter just enough to see it will spin ,oil will spray out of the plug holes so you will need to put paper towls by each hole .Put the plugs back and go through the proper fire up procedure if it turns enough to start .
 
I'm priming it with the old distributor so the engine has to turn over to prime but I'll pick up some two stroke oil and turn it over and see if that helps might be on the right track here. I pulled the starter so I'll get it tested while it's out
 
Do not try to prime it by turning it over ,you need to pull the dist. and use a priming shaft .the motor will stay at top dead center if you pull the dist. out at top dead center, just put the dist. back after primed . The motor needs to turn at about 2000 RPMs for about 20 minutes when it starts to break in the cam properly. If you have an old dist. you can take the shaft out of it and knock the advance mechanism off ,it makes a perfect priming tool ,just remember it turns counter clockwise to prime .
if you do not feel a quick resistance in the drill you are probably turning the wrong way. Be careful not to pull the oil pump drive out when you remove the priming shaft .