So here's my situation. I've got a non-california 1988 speed density set up 5.0 in my 1970's datsun. I didnt install it but know the guy who did and this thing has ran great in the past. The smog pump is gone but pretty much everything else remains. I have checked for vacuum leaks and found none. EGR seems tight and opperating correctly. Fuel pressure is good. New O2 sensors. I had the heads sent out valves seated and new seals installed. The thing is my right bank runs great but on the left, cylinders 7 and 8 misfire. I got new wires, cap and rotor from ford racing. I switched the injectors around put new seals on. Still misfire. I got white smoke blowing out the rear that smells like gas. When I pull the plugs 7 and 8 have gas on the plugs. Done everything I can think of without testing anything electrical since I my ohm meter broke. But I pulled the wires on 7 and 8 and there is spark. Also once it gets to operating temperature it dies but can easily start back up. What do you all think? I'd like to keep it speed density to keep it simple since I don't plan on upgrading the motor cause it's plenty for the chassis. There's a guy in town selling a S/D ecu for a reasonable price. I just dont want to be compulsive like I often am with my cars.
The computers rarely break, usually it is a sensor or wiring problem. Cylinder balance test: Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 9 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 2 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on. Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes. Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes. Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes. Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes. See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars. The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector. 89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp. The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector. WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer. What to expect: You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. Do a compression test on all the cylinders. Take special note of any cylinder that shows up as weak in the cylinder balance test. Low compression on one of these cylinders rules out the injectors as being the most likely cause of the problem. Look at cylinders that fail the cylinder balance test but have good compression. These cylinders either have a bad injector, bad spark plug or spark plug wire. Move the wire and then the spark plug to another cylinder and run the cylinder balance test again. If it follows the moved wire or spark plug, you have found the problem. If the same cylinder fails the test again, the injector is bad. If different cylinders fail the cylinder balance test, you have ignition problems or wiring problems in the 10 pin black & white electrical connectors located by the EGR. How to do a compression test: Only use a compression tester with a screw in adapter for the spark plug hole. The other type leaks too much to get an accurate reading. Your local auto parts store may have a compression tester to rent. If you do mechanic work on your own car on a regular basis, it would be a good tool to add to your collection. With the engine warmed up, remove all spark plugs and prop the throttle wide open, crank the engine until it the gage reading stops increasing. On a cold engine, it will be hard to tell what's good & what's not. Some of the recent posts have numbers ranging from 140-170 psi. If the compression is low, squirt some oil in the cylinder and do it again – if it comes up, the rings are worn. There should be no more than 10% difference between cylinders. Use a blow down leak test (puts compressed air inside cylinders) on cylinders that have more than 10% difference. See the link to my site for details on how to build your own blow down type compression tester.
Turn the key on and stick a test light across the Injector power and switched ground wire. Test light should not be lighting up unless the engine is turned over or running. You can also take out injector 7 and 8, then try to blow through the injector. You shoulnt be able to. If you can, then the injectors are stuck open.
Just tried the test light on the injector wires. No light without the car running. As for the injectors them selves, I swapped 7 and 8 to 5 and 6 positions already. Didn't try the blow threw test but the problem didn't follow the injectors to their new positions. I'll try pulling codes off the computer tomorrow but am still eager for any suggestions. Thanks
Clean the 10-pin connectors. They are notorius for causing injector issues Ford Fuel Injection 10-pin Connector Fix
Fixed! I cut open the wire harness and found an old splice that the previous owner had made. I cut it out and re connected it also followed the wire to the 10 pin connector and spread the male connector out and now 7 and and 8 are firing. Thanks for the 10 pin suggestion that seemed to be 8's problem. now to figure out the idle issue and I'm good to go.
