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Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by NIKwoaC, Mar 13, 2011.
get the ford racing cable..its also comes with a brand new shift fork for 50 bucks...its stock oem
The FRPP cable is supposedly made in Taiwan and is not the same as the original stock Mustang cable...
Then go with the Steeda cable if they're still made. Probably expensive, though, because they're adjustable, but I know they're quality.
The 'float shifting' technique also works when you've detontated a pressure plate by over-spinning it... I was 17, and I didn't know anything when I decided to engine brake by putting the car in 1st gear going around 65 mph. Didn't know how clutches worked, and thought I was good as long as I didn't let the engine over rev. I didn't realize that one you put the tranny in gear, the input shaft is spinning at that RPM regardless of the clutch. So I blew the pressure plate. A ford dealership replace the clutch, but I never got a look at it. So I don't really know why, but whatever I did to the pressure plate kept the clutch disc engaged to the flywheel.
Hahaha, damn! I bet it was even hard to get the trans into first gear at 65mph, the syncros would be begging for mercy!
I would have thought that someone would have chimed in with this information by now. MM makes a cable that is an OEM copy of the original fox clutch cable. Only difference is it is a little longer. MM cable is also more expensive IIRC than most aftermarket. When I was hunting for information this is the direction I went because of the OEM cable being stronger than most after market. The extra length of MM cable tends to keep it off of or away from the heat of the headers and block.
Do they still produce the SN-95 cable? It may be cheaper than the Fox cable, and the only thing you have to do to make it work is cut off the plastic peice by the firewall. I don't know if it'll be cheaper than the MM or Steeda cable, though. It's also longer than the Fox cable and was easy to keep away from heat when I had twin-turbos that were between the heads and strut towers. I'd be surprised if Ford stopped producing these, already.
Been following your thread...motor looks great and I love the T-tops. Wanted to chime in on the clutch issue. I just did a rebuild a few months ago and used the Ram HDX too. Motor probably makes about 380-400fwtq (guessing here). Went to the track and had the exact same problems you had, with the addition that my clutch pedal would stay towards the floor. Long story short...my HDX pressure plate was bad. Lost spring pressure and wouldn't disengag fully at track. I thought it was the cable so I parked it for a few weeks, but finally got it out and drove it. Started slipping badly. Pulled trans and clutch, disc was fine. I've replaced it with a Spec Stage II now. I was very upset over the failure of the clutch. I expected to get more than 1500 miles out of it, and I allowed 500 miles for motor and clutch breakin. I hope yours is only the cable!
Is it this one? I may look into that...
1996-04 Mustang 4.6L 2V/4V Stock Replacement Clutch Cable by Ford at LRS - Same Day Shipping!
Where were you when I was clutch shopping?
Well, I know for sure it's the cable right now. You can see that it's failed just by opening the hood...
It looks the same to me. I bought mine at a ford stealership, though.
Well, I put a Maximum Motorsports cable in the car, and it is fan-friggin-tastic. Pedal effort is significantly less than it ever has been with either of the previous two cables (the FRPP adjustable unit and the Dorman "stock replacement" knock-off). It feels like the car has a different clutch in it.
Now, we'll see if it lasts...
From what I've read that is the best choice for clutch replacement. Good choice.
MM is top quality stuff. It doesn't surprise me that it worked out. If it breaks, I'd be blown away.
I know what you mean, too. I literally hated driving my car and was contemplated getting rid of it because of all the clutch problems I was having. As a last ditch effort, I replaced the clutch, fork (and adjusted it), replaced the aftermarket one with the SN95, and installed the UPR triple-fork quadrant, and firewall adjuster, and suddenly it was a completely different car that I loved again. The clutch felt, no bull****, every bit as light as my honda accord's hydralic clutch. The shop that I had problems with on my build also managed to lose my SN95 cable, but replaced it with a Steeda adjustible (adjusted from bottom). I was very displeased, but so far the cable has not stretched. It doesn't seem as light or easy as the OEM cable was, but it's still fine, and I'm happy with it.
Anyway, sounds like problem solved.... What's next?
FoxGT, I like the quote in your sig. For some reason the I thought of what a guy with a honda would say: "I live my life an 1/8 mile at a time. For those 25 seconds or more, I'm free!"
hehe yeah, for my fox that is quoted for truth. can't break into the eights right now because I lack the cash to buy new tires for better traction. only track I got is a an 1/8th mile so... it made sense even if it is bashing the old car pretty badly =D
Turbo. Haha, no but really, the car needs paint, that's what will probably happen next. Then turbo. Or maybe a 408. Or maybe a 408 AND a turbo. Heh.
You should get the mechanical stuff done before paint. Working on a car with fresh paint is no fun
Yea, it's just that the paint is getting to the point where it is so bad, that it's on the verge of showing the primer through in some spots. The hood is very very very faded, the front of the car is covered in rock chips, and the rub rail around the car is patchy and in some spots is showing that yellow plastic through. It's also littered with waved sheet metal and door dings. The poor car NEEDS paint and bodywork, I don't know if I can get away with avoiding it much longer. The only reason it's rust-free is because I refuse to drive it in rain or snow, the paint definitely isn't protecting the panels anymore.
Wanted to keep this thread up-to-date.
After ironing out some bugs, the car went a 13.1 @ 109.3 with my noob driving.
Bump for updates on the car:
Bump for cracking 12s: