Noisy lifters in my 1965 mustang

Discussion in 'Classic Mustang Specific Tech' started by mustangguy65, Mar 30, 2011.


  1. mustangguy65

    mustangguy65 New Member

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    Ive got a little problem i hope . I own a 65 mustang coupe mild 289 build 351 heads, Stock 289 push rods, Stock crank, Mild cam, Stock roller rockers non adjustable .The lifters are making a little noise could it be the stock push rods ? and if it is the push rods witch push rods do i need ?
    push rods 302
    push rods 351
    Thanks
     
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  2. 2+2GT

    2+2GT Well-Known Member

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    Non adjustable rockers? There's your problem. Change to screw-in studs, and adjust them.
     
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  3. mustangguy65

    mustangguy65 New Member

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    Thanks
    So to my understanding is just change the studs to screw-in studs and i can keep the roller rockers?
    And if so where do i buy them
    Thanks
     
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  4. 2+2GT

    2+2GT Well-Known Member

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    Jegs, Summit, any local speed shop, many auto parts stores.
     
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  5. mustangguy65

    mustangguy65 New Member

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    Thanks 2+2GT i will see if i can find some screw-in studs
    Any more input would be great
    Thanks
     
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  6. horseballz

    horseballz Member

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    Once you change from the non-adjustable pedestal mount to adjustable with studs, don't you need to add guide plates or something else to keep the rockers aligned?
    Just Asking,
    Gene
     
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  7. mustangmutt

    mustangmutt Member

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    Valvetrain geometry is critical. If you get it wrong it could cause bad problems. The only Windsor engine I know of with stock roller rockers is the '93 - '94 Cobra 5.0L. Adjustable roller rockers require guide plates, which might be included in the stud kit.
     
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  8. 68RCodeConv

    68RCodeConv New Member

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    Changing heads could change the geometry and require longer pushrods. Check where the end of the valve is contacting the rocker. If it is off center then you probably need a different length pushrod.
     
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  9. 2+2GT

    2+2GT Well-Known Member

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    If you have rail rockers, you don't need guide plates. If you don't, then yes, you need guide plates. Guide plates are not expensive. Even the Ford Racing plates retail for $25. Some are even less.
     
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  10. mustangguy65

    mustangguy65 New Member

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    Thanks for all the input guys. I guess i will be doing a little work this weekend.
    I will keep you updated
    Thanks
     
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  11. horseballz

    horseballz Member

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    The question we have all failed to ask is:

    Did the lifters just start making noise after being fine for while?

    OR:

    Have they always been a little noisy since putting this combo together?

    FYI, the Ford Racing/Crane roller rockers DO make a little noise, as do most roller racker arms.
    HTH,
    Gene
     
    #11
  12. mustangguy65

    mustangguy65 New Member

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    They have always been a little noisy horseballz since putting this combo together.
     
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  13. j69302

    j69302 Active Member

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    With the warmed up(and engine off) remove the valve covers. Since they are hydraulic you can probably do this cold, but warm would be better.

    Start with #1 cyl at TOP DEAD CENTER ON THE COMPRESSION STROKE.

    Take a feeler gauge and try to slip it in between the rocker arm and valve stem tip.

    With hydraulic lifters you should have 0 play (valve lash).

    Any play is what is making the noise. Since you changed heads you will need either longer pushrods. or adjustable rocker arms.

    The pushrod length is to center the contact area of the rocker arm over the valve stem. If this is currently centered, then keep you push rods and get adjustable rocker arms.

    If the tip of the rocker arm is NOT centered over the valve stem, then you need to get adjustable pushrods to measure the current length, and then buy a set of pushrods that length. (I think the adjustable rods are only for engine building)
     
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  14. mustangmutt

    mustangmutt Member

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    The Crane rollers that bolt on in place of the factory non rollers are adjusted by using shims. You can get the instructions crom Crane or off of Summits website.
     
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  15. horseballz

    horseballz Member

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    6. To check and adjust the lifter preload, turn the bolt by hand until
    there is no clearance between the front roller and the valve stem
    and the pushrod is seated in the rocker arm pushrod seat. Slowly
    torque the bolt to 18-20 ft/lbs. Since you are pushing down the
    plunger in the hydraulic lifter as you torque the bolt, it will probably
    take a minute or two for you to get the correct setting. You
    should be able to turn the bolt between 1/4 & 1 turn before you
    reach the correct torque setting. This will give you the correct lifter
    preload of .020" to .060". If you can turn the bolt more than one
    turn to achieve the proper torque, you will have to shim the
    pedestal. Two different thickness shims are provided for each
    rocker arm to assist you. A thick shim represents approximately
    one turn.
    If you cannot turn the bolt at least 1/4 turn after first contact with
    the roller and valve stem, you will have to install longer pushrods
    to obtain proper hydraulic lifter preload. Pushrods are available in
    different lengths, specifically for this purpose. There are many
    modifications that may have been made to the engine which will
    change the lifter preload, such as a valve job, different camshaft,
    or different thickness head gaskets, and factory tolerances can
    also affect the lifter preload on stock engines.
     
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  16. mustangmutt

    mustangmutt Member

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    :nice: Yeah, what he said. ^
     
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