I'm going to install my O/R h-pipe tomorrow and was just wondering, for those of you that have already done it, if you guys have some tips or suggestions that might make the install go a little easier/quicker.
Thanks!
Thanks!
O/R h-pipe Install Tips
- Thread starter bleedingvayneAD
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tom281
New Member
Sure........best tip I can give you is to unplug the O2 sensors at their harness connections, and drop the stock H with the sensors still in the pipe. Then R&R them into the new pipe and install the new pipe with them in place. By doing this, you won't need to worry so much about wires binding while removing and reinstalling them. Also, they won't just be dangling from under the car while you're swapping pipes.
Just don't forget to plug the sensors back into their harnesses!
By the way, I can R&R the pipe with the front end on Ryno ramps and the rear end on jackstands. I've done it twice and takes less than an hour. The hardest part is getting to the manifold bolts on the stock pipe; the stock cats are DIRECTLY in the way and you will likely need a swivel-head rachet or a flexible socket extension........or both.
Tom
Just don't forget to plug the sensors back into their harnesses!
By the way, I can R&R the pipe with the front end on Ryno ramps and the rear end on jackstands. I've done it twice and takes less than an hour. The hardest part is getting to the manifold bolts on the stock pipe; the stock cats are DIRECTLY in the way and you will likely need a swivel-head rachet or a flexible socket extension........or both.
Tom
i did it with ONLY ramps. i used a long extension and 15mm for the manifold bolts, no swivel was needed. i unplugged the two rear O2 sensors, but unscrewed the passenger front one, because i could not reach the connection. the hardest part for me was dropping the stock H down to remove the over the axle pipes from the H. the new O/R H fit right in, very easily. took about 1.5 hours, but that was mostly due to the fact that i drove it for about 25 miles RIGHT BEFORE i did the swap. when things are hot, you tend to be more careful and take your time. 
this is pretty straight forward install. you will need a 15mm deep socket and long extensions for the H pipe connections, plus the size that fits the clamp they send you for the H connection in the middle. a 7/8" wrench is used for the O2 sensors. just be sure before you tighten up the bolts that you check the fit of your muffler tips in the bumper cut outs. they will move when you install the H.
this is pretty straight forward install. you will need a 15mm deep socket and long extensions for the H pipe connections, plus the size that fits the clamp they send you for the H connection in the middle. a 7/8" wrench is used for the O2 sensors. just be sure before you tighten up the bolts that you check the fit of your muffler tips in the bumper cut outs. they will move when you install the H.
tom281
New Member
tom281
New Member
One more important tip........as always when working in the garage over the weekend, be sure to stay properly hydrated. I find that 3 to 4 twelve ounce bottles of brew do the trick. As a substitute, cans may be used in place of bottles.
Tom
Tom
nycstang37
New Member
bleedingvayneAD said:
what does age have to do with anything?
see here in NY technically theres a drinking age, but we just ignore it!
nycstang37
New Member
Well I tried today but I couldn't get the bolts off near the manifolds. I sprayed a lot of WD40 on them, but they wouldn't budge worth a ****.
PB Blaster will do the trick. 
WD-40 just doesn't penetrate as well.
Another tip:
Disconnect the battery as well, before you start. The PCM will need to adjust to the new environment after you are finished with the installation.
WD-40 just doesn't penetrate as well.
Another tip:
Disconnect the battery as well, before you start. The PCM will need to adjust to the new environment after you are finished with the installation.
But with a normal 15mm deep socket, they just didn't seem to be moving at all. Are you sure that this PB Blaster stuff will work? I want to make sure it does before I attempt this again. Also, the one O2 sensor on the passenger side, I couldn't get that bolt to move either. Uggggh, I really don't want to end up having to pay someone to put this on for me...
Please divulge forth any other suggestions.......
Please divulge forth any other suggestions.......
tom281
New Member
HAHA, good one.
Would the 1/2" rachet do any good? I don't understand how this was so easy for other people, but my bolts have to be jerks...
Would the 1/2" rachet do any good? I don't understand how this was so easy for other people, but my bolts have to be jerks...
tom281
New Member
bleedingvayneAD said:
You may be surprised how much stronger you can be with a larger rachet.......its worth a shot. I'd hate to see you pay someone to do this for you, once you get past a couple of stubborn bolts, you'll cruise thru it.
the 1/2" will give you so much more leverage that it is not funny. try the PB BLASTER, it is hands down the best stuff to use. i have NEVER had a bolt break or fail to loosen when using that stuff. i have done tons of older cars that you would almost guarantee that it would be rusted, but the PB does it easily. if you cant break the O2 sensors loose, try using a cheater bar for more leverage.
Szlachcic
New Member
I had the same problem as you when putting my xpipes on. Listen to the others PB Blaster is amazing. Just spray it on and wait a while for it to penetrate. Next time you try to get the bolts off they should be much easier to move, good luck.
Sweet. Thanks guys! I'll go buy some PB Blaster and find a 1/2" rachet to use and I'll attempt it again this weekend!
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