OBD1 Tester woes

[Mcmahst]

Hello:

About 18 months ago, I purchased a INNOVA 3145 Ford Digital OBD1 Code Reader that I intended to use to support swapping the drivetrain from a 1987 TBird, that had Speed Dentisy EFI system. I completed the swap, and am having idle, AFR issues, etc. Since I have no experience using this tester, I’m not sure it’s not working. When I connect it and run the test, I get no codes or anything. The instructions are not very good, so they’ve not helped, and their doesn’t seem to be a group online that supports this device.

I was hoping one of you had experience with this so I could determine if the unit is bad or something I did with the wiring conversion is keeping the self-testing capabilities of the EEC-IV from working. Any help on that front you can provide is appreciated.

Also, is there a way I could determine if the ECU is providing codes? Or, can I verify if the test plug is sending data? Any help here would be appreciated.

Thank you.

 

[Rdub6]

You’re not getting anything at all on the code reader screen?

 

[General karthief]

Do you have a functioning check engine light?
What did you swap the drive train into and did you use the T bird wiring?

 

[Mcmahst]

Ok, when you turn the unit on you get a screen with three 0 (zeros). You press the test/memory button and nothing happens.

Yes, the stock wiring harness from the 87 TBird was swapped into the 73 Mustang. I did a wire by wire identification from the ECU harness and created a removable harness. Unfortunately, I did not retain the check engine light, but I maybe rethinking that and adding it into the car.

What is a good OBD1 tester if I choose to buy a replacement unit?

 

[evintho]

Did you swap a 5.0 from an '87 TBird? Also, define 'removable harness'. Did you cut every wire in half and install some sort of 60 pin connector between them? Sounds like there's a wiring concern between your data link connector and the ECU?

 

[Noobz347]

Ok, when you turn the unit on you get a screen with three 0 (zeros). You press the test/memory button and nothing happens.

Yes, the stock wiring harness from the 87 TBird was swapped into the 73 Mustang. I did a wire by wire identification from the ECU harness and created a removable harness. Unfortunately, I did not retain the check engine light, but I maybe rethinking that and adding it into the car.

What is a good OBD1 tester if I choose to buy a replacement unit?

The tester that you have if the same one that I've had for more than 20 years. If you think that one is broken, I would buy another one just like it. It's also the same one we recommend to just about everybody that walks in here and doesn't have an OBD1 reader already.

 

[Mcmahst]

Noobz347, Ok, a little about the swap. Because the TBitd and Mustang engine compartments were similar in dimensions, I was able to locate the sensors in the same location. The MAP sensor is on the firewall, EGR, TAB, TAD devices located in the same place. So, the wiring from the 60 pin connector to the MAP, EGR, TAB, TAD, O2 sensors, and the two large connectors that join at the rear of the intake, were never cut or modified. The major wiring changes were to the inputs to that harness, power at Start, Run power, etc. I took 4 months to move the wiring, including building a wire harness board, so if there is something wrong with the inputs or outputs of the ECU circuits, I would be surprised, but who knows.

Testing a harness like that wasn’t easy, as I couldn’t find anyone who posted videos or instructions on a similar swap on how they tested their product. So, I did the jumper wire at the test port to activate the fuel pump relay; that worked. Also, I cleaned the two harness connectors that tie the ECU to the various elements on the manifold, including a video to slightly open the male prongs to improve the connections. I used dia electric grease on all the connectors.

Is there a way I can do a test of the test port? Also, since you got your tester to work, when you plug isn’t in and press the testbutton, how long does it take for the results? You have no idea how much I appreciate your questions and help; first person I met who has and used this tester. Also, and I know it’s asking a lot; any chance you could make a video of using your tester with it showing results? I could do the same on mine so you could see if I’m doing something dumb. I would definitely own you a 6 pack. Steve

 

[General karthief]

I feel the need, the need for speed!!
What do ya expect? I drive a toyota
but seriously, these computers are 25+ years old, have you had it checked out by someplace like The ECUexchange?
I say this because a symptom of a computer problem is a code reader will not communicate with the computer, I believe religiously with having every computer checked out.
Just say'n

 

[AeroCoupe]

View: https://youtu.be/158pfB988hs?si=Q-hQoUkrShwMH0Qn

This is the guy her refers to:


View: https://youtu.be/Thh0vyoILgo?si=X_k9uH6Y6HezLcuj

 

[Mcmahst]

I didnt do that. Since i was able to drive it on the trailer, I thought I was ok. I’ll look into it. Thank you.

I think I watched about 25 harness swap and convert videos before I started. After I was “done” with the harness, I did a pin by pin continuity test from the connector to each destination, on all the ECU harness wires. While I started this thread to understand my issues with my OBD1 tester, I still believe my primary issue is my very low idle vacuum (10-12” and passed compression test). I’ve got a thread of that problem over at 7173mustangs.com, in the build section. On Monday, I’m going to try and eliminate other vacuum leak sources; I’ve already eliminated the purge valve, EGR/TAB/TAD solenoids, brake booster, and vacuum reserve can. Monday I’m going to eliminate the PVC line. It’s already passed smoke tests from the manifold and each tailpipe. I’m running out of places for it to leak that are “easy” to fix. Next sources are hard.

 

[Mcmahst]

Ok, so if I understand the Ford 1987 TBird Troubleshooting manual I have, pin 17 on the ECU is responsible for acting as the ground when an emissions related code is activated. I say ground because according to the manual, the routing is fuse, light, ECU pin 17. So, if I could make a temp bulb with power and connect it to that Y/BK wire that connects to 17, and it lights, at least the ECU has a stored memory fault. Right?

ECU pin ID at test connector

ECU “Waring Indicator” power routing

 

[Mcmahst]

Another question I failed to ask and the manual that came with the tester was no help. If the unit is basically counting impulses from the ECU, and adding them up to get a code, how long after pressing the Test button does the test take? Maybe my problem is I’m impatient?

 

[Noobz347]

Another question I failed to ask and the manual that came with the tester was no help. If the unit is basically counting impulses from the ECU, and adding them up to get a code, how long after pressing the Test button does the test take? Maybe my problem is I’m impatient?

I think you might need to read through the instructions...

There are icons on the display that indicate connection and sequences for indicating when the tester is ready and how fault code segments are separated.

NOTE: During the KOEO Self Tests two groups of codes will be sent to the Code Reader by the vehicle’s computer.• The first groups of codes sent to the Code Reader are called "KOEO Self Test codes",• followed by the second group called "Continuous Memory Codes". NOTE: Before the computer sends the second group of codes to the Code Reader, it first sends a “separator code” (code 10) to separate the first group of codes from the second group.

7. Press and release the TEST/HOLD button to put the Code Reader in Test Mode.■ When the code reader is put in test mode it signals the vehicle's computer to start performing the Self Test. The display will show a "Triangle" icon on the lower right hand corner of the display to indicate that the Code Reader is linked to the vehicle's computer and is in test mode.

8. After 6 to 10 seconds (it may take longer on some vehicles)the computer will start sending the KOEO Self Testresults to the Code Reader in the form of numerical codes.

■ A square icon (on the righthand side of the screen)displays and flashes each time the Code Reader receives a code. The code is then shown on the Code Reader's display. ■ A small "O" is shown in the upper right-hand corner of the display to indicate that the code being received is a KOEO Self Test fault code.

NOTE: Each code is repeated two times.

9. If no problems are found during the KOEO Self Test, the computer sends a “pass code”(code 11 or 111) to the Code Reader.

■ Code 11 or 111 indicates that all the relays and actuators(and their related circuits)that were tested are OK, and no faults were found.

■ If the Code Reader fails to display codes, consult the troubleshooting guide on pages 75 and 76.

 

[Noobz347]

I'm going to post the manual here in case anybody is ever looking for a copy:

 

[Mcmahst]

Well, I did a quick read, but I didn’t read it enough to understand what I was doing. Thank you posting those directions.

 

[Mustang5L5]

FYI, 1987 Speed Density cars did not have a functional check engine light. You can wire pin 17 to the cel manually to make it functional. If you are doing a swap, i wouldn't rule it out that there might be a wiring harness that has a pin out of place.

 

[Mcmahst]

The 1987 Thunderbird 5.0 Sport did have a light, it was called a “EEC Warning” indicator.

 

[Mcmahst]

I’m getting back to my car next week. I’ll install the tester and make a video of the screen so those of you who’ve used it can comment on the output. AND, I’ll follow the instructions.

 

[General karthief]

AND, I’ll follow the instructions

You didn't throw them away ?

 

[Mcmahst]

I’ll owe up to misplaced. No worries, my wife found it