Options For Fixing This Rust On Headers

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by from6to8, Dec 17, 2013.

  1. Have a rust situation going on with these headers that i want to get fixed soon and wondering if there are places that can clean then up and recoat, rather can take them off, sand the rust off and put a protective coating on them, or what. Just asking in case anyone has done it before themselves with success or failure or sent them off or what have you. The gasket is a metal gasket so will it require a new header gasket when putting back together?

    also not sure rather the cost to send them and get cleaned up or take by a shop if thats what you recommend would be more/less than getting a new set so i will have to see what you guys say and then call around and ask and compare.

    My car has been garaged for a few yrs now but even with it i notice condensation still settles under my hood so I'm guessing from 02 till now with age, alot of my engine pieces are going to have some rust action going on huh? 20131216_120106.jpg
     
  2. my best suggestion is to send them out to be ceramic coated if you want to fix those.

    but honestly at this point id just buy new ones
     
  3. ^^ Agreed!
     
  4. yeah just saw new ones on ebay for 184 bucks

    im thinking ceramic would cost wayyy more to finish but would last wayyy longer too ????????

    or maybe i can take off, sand the rust off and someone else mentioned maybe sandblasting but i'd have to find a place that could sandblast them
     
  5. Thing is, trying to fix that on the car will most likely end up with a hack job result that most likely won't look or perform to your satisfaction. The cheapo way would be to take them off, wire wheel off the rust, sand, prime , and then a couple of cans of VHT ceramic header paint.

    If that isn't what you are looking for, I agree with the others. Get a set of good new ceramic headers. The cost to jet hot or ceramic coat yours will probably run 150-200. IMO the best shorties are the FMS ceramic coated- but they are not cheap. $400 a set new. You can clean up your old ones and sell them to recoup some of the cost.

    images?q=tbn:ANd9GcQ_Rf1yQ1ePFFabvoOC-nuRZiW0skPDbM2FcWejell5KLmTvHp_-A
     
  6. are these the fms ceramic coated? I'd rather not chrome cause im sure they will rust faster.

    I'd almost be willing to try and clean mine up, prime , and paint just to try it cause it it doesnt last that long then it won't be that much money wasted then next time i will just order new ones. But still not sure yet
     
  7. Anyone know where i can find the oil fill tube extension for problem with the oil cap hitting the CAI tube when using the 86-95 chrome valve covers? I cant remember where the link is someone sent me long time ago in regards to an extension with a curve in it that would place the oil fill cap in the clear
     
  8. Yep. that's them. LMRS sells them and you get a Stangnet discount...

    http://www.latemodelrestoration.com...Stainless-Steel-Shorty-Headers-Ceramic-Coated
     
  9. 2ahyme5e.jpg
    I think I have the same headers, I just hit them with some scotch brite and painted them with vht high temp paint, it wasn't the 500 degree paint. Worked good for me.
     
  10. a4usagyz.jpg
    Here they are cleaned up.. I took about 5 minutes prepping these..
     
  11. Soak those header bolts down with some penetrating oil before you try to remove them. May want to do it several days in a row.

    Joe
     
  12. I would add, if your existing headers do not have a solid flange, leave them on and buy a new pair. Once you take off those individual flanges you will go through hell and high water to realign those holes. Just you and mr. crowbar and lots of swearing :rlaugh:
     
  13. Like the others said. Use a liquid rust converter to get a paintable surface, and shoot them with some header paint. A professional recoat job will cost more than a new set of headers.

    Kurt
     
  14. looks damn good man. I for sure will go that route now lol. Is it neccesary to pull the motor to get them out?
     
  15. Thanks, no need to pull the motor. It can be a pain getting the separate flanges to line up. I made a spreader tool to make the job easier.
     
    Grabbin' Asphalt likes this.
  16. whats the rule of thumb on replacing the upper plenum gaskets since no silicone is required when you put the gaskets between the upper and lower? I have a 3/8 plenum spacer.
     

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  17. would they pull out up top or have to pull from the bottom?

    also with the scotch brite, did you manually sand them with your hand?
     
  18. Up top, yes manually
     
  19. It's not getting them out, it's putting them
    back on o_O
     
  20. on my 95 mght be harder to get out up top. Pass side shouldnt be bad but the drivers side has all this stuff :

    and i will ask the 2 guys who might be helping me rather they think they can get em to line up lol
     

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