bought an 87 gt 5.0ho t5 car today. guy said timing chain is stretched and its jumped a few teeth. but the car lacks no power and will light them up. but if you floor it in first it will hesitate tjen just launch and scream down the road. its running real rich. smokes out the pipes and burns your eyes. has a CAI, headers and an h pipe, guy said he was told it had a cam but no proof. itdoes have a cam lope tho. dose not have cats, and o2 sensors, car had 80 miles put on it today, no problems besides useing a lot of fuel and running rich. could this be timing chain set issue? he said hes advanced the timing alot, and it throws no codes. im gonna run codes tomorrow and see for myself. but any ideas are appreciated since i want to restore this car but this is my hold up. thanks
Over Fueling.
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i thought it would run like crap, but he told me he has the distributor turned alot to advance the timing. ive get a brand new doubble roller timing chain set with car, so its getting put in, but still dont belive its the issue. i dont think there is any aftermarket fuel regulator on the car, i have yet to see one. and i assume OK njectors are stock, i wasnt told otherwise, how do i check without removing them? will i need to put cats back on to put the o2 sensors on? thanks agian, alot of my questions might be simple answers but im new to the stang world.
That's retardo. Ignition timing cannot make up for cam timing,...it don't matter how far dude turns the distributor around,....he cannot make up for the cam trying to open the valves at an "other than TDC event",.....which would be the case if the cam jumped time. The "Bog, or flat spot" you are describing is fuel vs ignition related IMO.
It's running fat because the ECU has no frame of reference for how much fuel is running through the engine if it has no o2 sensors. What kind of goober would remove those and not expect the engine to run exactly as it is now doing? Your P.O. is a GIANT bonehead.
It has no codes because the Ck eng light has probably been on so long the light has burned out.
Put the O2's back in,....let the ECU do it's job.
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
I agree, o2's are there for a reason,That's retardo. Ignition timing cannot make up for cam timing,...it don't matter how far dude turns the distributor around,....he cannot make up for the cam trying to open the valves at an "other than TDC event",.....which would be the case if the cam jumped time. The "Bog, or flat spot" you are describing is fuel vs ignition related IMO.
It's running fat because the ECU has no frame of reference for how much fuel is running through the engine if it has no o2 sensors. What kind of goober would remove those and not expect the engine to run exactly as it is now doing? Your P.O. is a GIANT bonehead.
It has no codes because the Ck eng light has probably been on so long the light has burned out.
Put the O2's back in,....let the ECU do it's job.
He said they were removed, after looking today its got one that I can see on the pass side down pipe off the header. He said it wasn't throwing the check engine light, which would be because of dosent have one lol. He also said it could be the long round cylinder on the front side of the throttle body(not sure what its called) but he's still dead set its. Anything to check to cause it to get to much fuel? It has a new fuel pump but I've noticed it will say full then drop to quarter then back up for a while then back down where it should be.
I bought someone else's project and he didn't have much of a clue as to what is done since he bought it as a project as well, but it has tons of new parts and enough extras to make some cash on. I tried to check the injectors, there yellow and have a g on them, looked to be some smaller letters but I couldnt make them out.
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
That's your IAC and yes it's replaceable. I'd try taking it off and cleaning it out with some carb cleaner first though. They're usually salvageable as long as the little servo motor isn't burnt out.
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
No, all the iac does it regulates the air intake while the throttle is closed. The air goes around the throttle plate via the iac valve. So it shouldn't have anything to do with fuel
f8tlfiveo
My wife likes my spool and blow-off valve.
depends on the cam , some cams will work speed density , I actually seen a list not too long ago .
there are no down stream sensors on this car it's 1 on each side that's it .
Best way would be to do a MAF conversion as far as the cam issue
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
there are no down stream sensors on this car it's 1 on each side that's it .
Best way would be to do a MAF conversion as far as the cam issue
Sent from my iPhone using my fingers
given the info so far it sounds like the PO had no clue what he was talking about. I highly doubt you have a cam. vacuum leaks and poor running conditions will cause the engine to lope like a can am racer. I would go through the surging idle check list and quit guessing as to what it what. First order of business is a good tune up. plugs, wires, dist button and cap, clean the IAC and dump some fuel cleaner in your tank to help clear any plugs tha may be fouled, replace the fuel filter and check the air filter. Then buy an OBD1 ford scanner and dump your codes. I promise you have them.
Everything about this car just screams that its been neglected by someone that had no clue what they were doing.
Everything about this car just screams that its been neglected by someone that had no clue what they were doing.
The 86-88 5.0 Mustangs do not have a working check engine light unless it's a California car.
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and drivability problems
Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30-$36.
Post you codes and I will try to help you fix them. I have 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes for code related problems.
AFTER you have fixed all the codes, do the Surging Idle Checklist if you still have idle problems.
You guys with idle/stall problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix your idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix.
:
It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 125,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.
Dump the codes: Codes may be present even if the Check Engine Light (CEL) isn't on.
Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs
Revised 26-July-2011. Added need to make sure the clutch is pressed when dumping codes.
Codes may be present even if the check engine light hasn’t come on, so be sure to check for them.
Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.
Post the codes you get and I will post 86-93 model 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes. I do not have a complete listing for 94-95 model 5.0 Mustangs at this time.
Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. On a manual transmission car, be sure to press the clutch to the floor.
Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.
If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.
The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.
WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
What to expect:
You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems. This is crucial: the same wire that provides the ground to dump the codes provides signal ground for the TPS, EGR, ACT and Map/Baro sensors. If it fails, you will have poor performance, economy and drivability problems
Some codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.
Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off, and clutch (if present) is pressed to the floor, and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.
Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.
Your 86-88 5.0 won't have a working Check Engine Light, so you'll need a test light.
See AutoZone Part Number: 25886 , $10
Alternate methods:
For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.
Or for a nicer scanner see Equus - Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30-$36.
Post you codes and I will try to help you fix them. I have 5.0 Mustang specific code definitions and fixes for code related problems.
AFTER you have fixed all the codes, do the Surging Idle Checklist if you still have idle problems.
You guys with idle/stall problems could save a lot of time chasing your tails if you would go through the Surging Idle Checklist. Over 50 different people contributed information to it. The first two posts have all the fixes, and steps through the how to find and fix your idle problems without spending a lot of time and money. I continue to update it as more people post fixes or ask questions. You can post questions to that sticky and have your name and idle problem recognized. The guys with original problems and fixes get their posts added to the main fix.
:It's free, I don't get anything for the use of it except knowing I helped a fellow Mustang enthusiast with his car. At last check, it had more than 125,000 hits, which indicates it does help fix idle problems quickly and inexpensively.
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