Paxton

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oh ok got ya thanks for the info first motor i'm getting rebuilt so i can use all the good info i can get...so that add for the stronger block is a waste of time then?
Ya, it's a waste.

Consider some of the ford racing engines.
You get a warranty and engines built to ford specs.

If you don't start with a race block, A4, R block, dart or boss, anything you add to the engine won't strengthen it up any. So having expensive internals really doesn't do much.
 
And if i bought a boss 302 block from ford racing would it be bored out too big for standard pistons before i even bring it to a machine shop?? Every racing block i see it looks like in the description that they start out being bored out already?
 
Honestly, i'm not sure.
You probably are going to have to call an engine builder or go see whoever you planned on having put your engine together.
Not sure i've ever seen the situation where someone wanted to put stock sized aftermarket pistons back in an engine.
Not saying there is anything wrong with that. I just don't know the answer. Most people i know that go the race block route get 347's.
 
oh ok yea i guess i'll find out when my mechanic starts to install the pistons...yea this build has been going bad since day one if i knew all the problems i was going to run into i would have just bought a short block and been done with it...i was originally just going to but the eagle 4340 crank in since the motor was apart to give it a strong bottom end then the counterweight was hitting the boss end of the factory piston so then i bought aftermarket pistons since they had more clearence...then since i bought the pistons i bought new connecting rods and now i'm in too deep to stop what a disaster..but i seriously appreciate all the reply's wish i would have ask more questions before i started i didn't think i was going to run into all these problems..it sucks but its too late to turn back now i spent all this money already :shrug:
 
If you build the engine right, a stock block can take more. Having it internally balanced helps.

It's not really logical to even attempt to produce more power with a stock block.
At a certain point it's counterproductive.
Internally balancing is another extra cost.
Investing even more money in sinking ship isn't wise financially.
Especially to only get a few more hp.
450rwhp doesn't feel or act much differently than 500rwhp in a street car. I'll bet most people couldn't even tell the difference without a timeslip.
 
I agree with 2000XP8

If looking at using a stock block over 500 hp.....i would consider cyro-genically freezing the block. Cost is about 3 bucks a pounds. Probably over a thousand dollars with shipping. With that being said.

Go Dart.
 
wow really if i could get 450hp i would be happy with that...with 450hp vs 500hp what would the difference be in the 1/4 mile and what would it take to run high 10's because i would be happy with that...Another question since it seems inevitable that my block will split sooner or later if i use forced induction will the crank still be good to reuse if the block gives out??
 
wow really if i could get 450hp i would be happy with that...with 450hp vs 500hp what would the difference be in the 1/4 mile and what would it take to run high 10's because i would be happy with that...Another question since it seems inevitable that my block will split sooner or later if i use forced induction will the crank still be good to reuse if the block gives out??

Having 10 second power is easy. Getting a car to run 10's is a different story.
I'd shoot more for a mph goal than an ET (unless you are building a race car for the street, not a street car for the track).
Full weight street cars on a street suspension are unlikely to run 10's if nothing is deleted, ya it can be done, but i wouldn't count on it.

IMO on a non drag suspension with drag radials, if you could muster up 11.50@somewhere close to 120mph, you have a pretty fast car.

If the block gives out, i would only count on what you can get for everything from the scrap metal guy.
Search for some pics, they are around. It's not pretty what happens.

What's the rest of your setup going to be like, suspension? Rear? Trans?
 
i was just reading another post and i know everyone says the stock blocks are weak but read this guys post do you think its true that he is running a stock block with this much HP

Here is the post..............



-Mat[/QUOTE]
I'm brand new to this site and just want to make a comment:

I have a 93' fox body with a stock block 302 (GT-40 crate engine and bottom end) with Trick Flow Track Heat 190s, TF upper and lower, custom cam, 12psi procharged with helical gearset, 42# injectors. I just got back from dyno tune and it put down 522rwhp and 449rwtq. This equates to roughly 600fwhp, which was the highest I was willing to go.

It is quicker than my buddies dad's Z-06 and I agree with the above comments..450-500rwhp is a blast on the street. I have Nitto 555s and it hooks well, but much more than 500rwhp and I can only see full enjoyment coming from the track. I was at 449 rwhp with GT-40P heads 1.6 RR and cobra upper and lower (all mildly ported) with b-303 cam. It had much better street manners before I changed top end and cam.

I have every intention of going to a 4-bolt main 331 Dart short block later (hopefully next summer when i have time).

Would love to hear peoples thoughts.
 
why avoid the blower? And the last question i have and the confusion of this thread will be over i just want to know what would the best set-up be to run high tens on a stock block what will i need???
 
why avoid the blower? And the last question i have and the confusion of this thread will be over i just want to know what would the best set-up be to run high tens on a stock block what will i need???

avoid that blower cause its junk, look at it, it hasnt been taken care of and you already said it may have had coolant run thru it. And that is a loaded question, takes more then just throwing parts at a car to go 10's. be prepared to spend alot of time at the track testing and making the car work.