Please help running rich

bagel77

New Member
Oct 4, 2003
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OKay I have a 93 stang i bought with a bad motor but a great notch body. It had a speed density wiring harness in it why I don't know. I had an 89 Mass air harness and computer to put in it. I also had a 87 notch body that was my daily driver. Ran great until about a week before I took it off the road (turned out to be a bap sensor) Anyway it had a speed density to mass air conversion on it. I swapped motors and put the 89 harness in. Got it started and it Idled at 1500 and was sucking up air like crazy. The air intake tube was LOUD. anyway it also ran real rich and blew BLACK smoke out the tailpipes. Took it out for a ride and got 7.521 miles to the gallon. changed the O2 sensors no help. I then checked vacum leaks couldn't find any. I am running a steady 14-15 lbs right off the manifold at idle. I then took off the 89 harness and converted the speed density harness out of the 93 to mass air. it brought the Idle down and the intake now sounds normal But I am still pushing back smoke at Idle and acceleration from a stop. At idle the car sounds like it is loading up and does push black smoke. Chaged the fuel pump from the 93 (aftermarket) to the one in the 87. Drove it got 10.5 miles the the gallon At wide open throttle it seems to be good. Please Help. I can't pull codes the code reader gets nothing. And I have tried to different readers. Help me please. I want to keep it fuel injected but at this rate I will go carb
 
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Either the meter you're using has issues or you're getting unmetered air from somplace or your injectors are not the correct size for the calibration of the meter you've got installed.

If the problem is the result of the latter then you can get a different meter calibrated correctly for the injectors you're using (fooling the computer) or get a custom chip to correctly deal with the installed meter and injectors. If it's an OEM meter and 19 lbs injectors then my guess is that your problem is one of the first two items.
 
Can't pull codes means either the computer has died or you have lost the sensor
signal ground. It is the black/white wire on the computer test connector, pin 46
on the computer. With the power off, measure the resistance between the
black/white wire on the self test connector and the negative post on the battery.
You should get less than 1 ohm.

Depending on where the fault is in the black/white signal ground wiring, it can
disable the MAP/BARO, ECT, ACT, EGR & TPS sensors. Measure resistance
between the black/white wire on each sensor and battery ground. You should get
less than 1 ohm. No signal ground means that the sensors don't work and that will
definitely kill gas mileage & performance.

Diagram courtsey of Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host)
88-91eecPinout.gif


See the following website for some help from Tmoss (diagram designer) & Stang&2Birds (website host) for help on 88-90 wiring

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/IgnitionSwitchWiring.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/fuel-alt-links-ign-ac.gif

http://www.veryuseful.com/mustang/tech/engine/images/88-91eecPinout.gif

AutoZone wiring diagrams for Mustangs

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/16/71/3c/0900823d8016713c.jsp for 79-88 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/19/59/5a/0900823d8019595a.jsp for 89-93 model cars

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiB..._us/0900823d/80/1d/db/3c/0900823d801ddb3c.jsp for 94-98 model cars
 

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