Has anybody heard of or used total seal quick seat powder for the rings and cylinder walls, supposedly help aid the rings seat to the cylinder wall, pretty much eliminating the need for a break in period? What are your opinions? Too good to be true, or it probably works
I wouldn't do it. That whole 500 mile break in is a load of bs anyways. Some guy did a study where he had a bunch of new motor. Some he did the 500 mile break in on, others he didn't. As it turns out, the ones that he didn't do the break in on had better ring seatage. The reason was that the hone on the cylinder wall is like a file, and it only lasts so long. All he said was do your cam break in (if your still using a tappet cam that is) and then just run the **** out of the motor. My boss did this with his race built 347 and he hasn't had a single problem with it after all the abuse it has taken (and he also ran it on 5W30 mobile 1 right from the get go, so that whole synthetic doesn't let the rings seat is bs too).
This is what i was talking about: http://www.jegs.com/cgi-bin/ncommerce3/ProductDisplay?prrfnbr=4475&prmenbr=361 For those that are interested, 6stang7 why wouldnt you use it? any reasons? Also i curious hearing from people that have used it or know someone that used it. Thanks
I heard that they need to be pushed, but too much abuse too early can overheat the rings causing them to lose there tension. They need to see redline soon, but not too often to give them time to cool. I would only use 1st or maybe second on a manual to keep the time of loading shorter.
I have used the powder on a number of engines, this is something that total seal recomends when using there ring sets and they have proof that it actually does work. the main reason this stuff was developed was to speed up the ring seal process for race type engines where not to many guys are going to put 500 miles or so to seat rings. there are also other factors when using total seal rings to get them or any other rings to seat correctly, like your hone pattern and the cleanliness of the cyl walls at start up.
I dought they would overheat, because of the excess of oil getting past them to lubricate them. The crosshatch pattern on the cylinder walls is there to "cut" the rings to a perfect fit. Speed is varied to accomplish this, and some higher rpms are required.
Your post is a little hard to read. There is more oil for the rings on a fresh hone. I stated that you need to rev it to redline soon after you start to drive it, the first 5 miles. Extended time at high RPMs too early can overheat the rings which is the reason for lower gear burst. You should also make sure everything is up to temperature. I am not an engine builder or ring expert, that's just what I've heard and it makes sense to me.
What don't you understand? There will be clearance when new that allows for actual oil consumption past the rings. This lubes them. Never rev the engine to red line when new, but DO vary the rpms between say 2000-2500 and the idle range.
