Problems after C&L Plenum and Accufab 75mm T/B install... NEED HELP!!!

OK, I just read the reast of your posts!!!! Put the dam stock MAF back on. That is most likely the problem. The plenum and the TB added to the lean condition some too, but not a problem by itself. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM!!!!!! You need a dyno tune to get this thing to work correctly with those mods. I was actually getting a missfire due to the lean condition. It did not occur right away, only when the weather warmed up.
 
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Go HoTO! said:
OK, I just read the reast of your posts!!!! Put the dam stock MAF back on. That is most likely the problem. The plenum and the TB added to the lean condition some too, but not a problem by itself. I HAD THE SAME PROBLEM!!!!!! You need a dyno tune to get this thing to work correctly with those mods. I was actually getting a missfire due to the lean condition. It did not occur right away, only when the weather warmed up.

Thats not too good seeing as it will be getting into the 90's soon. Thursday Ill borrow the stock airbox from my friend and see how that goes and Ill update you guys. Thanks for your help.
 
I just yanked my 85mm C&L MAF from my 02 GT this past weekend, and reinstalled the OEM MAF, as I was running lean due to my SCT chip tuning (15:1 at 3K). The C&L MAF surely made it worse. The car would scream with it and ran great. Now I've lost a little punch initially when jumping on the loud pedal. Otherwise, it runs just as good as it did with the C&L MAF.
I used a new paper air filter, and the K&N heat shield, but not the airbox (cylinder). I just used the OEM circular clamp and a cardboard donut trimmed in black electrical tape (to keep it clean and hide it) to take the space that the airbox normally took in the circular clamp. But I still may go back to the airbox, without the snorkel, of course.
I wish I could run with the C&L MAF and feel safe, because I do feel as if I lost some power. I think alot of it has to do simply with the screen inside the OEM MAF. But I'm also smart enough to know that these things, as simple as they may seem, are very sensitive. My tuner wants $350 for dyno time/tuning/reburn...a bit steep for me right now. The paper filter was only $16. Still, I hate to LOSE power.
 
I don't really understand all the problems you guys are encountering with your intake mods. The cars computer should compensate for the extra air by adding a bit more fuel through the injectors. Basically, I'm saying that the o2 sensors pick up on the lean condition, sends the lean signal to the cars ecu, then the ecu sends the signal for the injectors to drop more fuel........Unless the airflow outweighs the fuel pumping capacity of the fuel pump and or injectors themselves, which is not likely without a power adder of some sort.....(ie...when using blowers, turbo, nitrous) I think the biggest problem he is having is that he just won't give the car long enough to learn any new settings before he goes to fiddling with it without resolve. I would personally buy a NEW MAF sensor, and ditch that used one, as I'm not fond of buying used electronics to begin with. Just my thoughts on the matter......... :shrug:
 
NiteMareGT said:
I don't really understand all the problems you guys are encountering with your intake mods. The cars computer should compensate for the extra air by adding a bit more fuel through the injectors. Basically, I'm saying that the o2 sensors pick up on the lean condition, sends the lean signal to the cars ecu, then the ecu sends the signal for the injectors to drop more fuel........Unless the airflow outweighs the fuel pumping capacity of the fuel pump and or injectors themselves, which is not likely without a power adder of some sort.....(ie...when using blowers, turbo, nitrous) I think the biggest problem he is having is that he just won't give the car long enough to learn any new settings before he goes to fiddling with it without resolve. I would personally buy a NEW MAF sensor, and ditch that used one, as I'm not fond of buying used electronics to begin with. Just my thoughts on the matter......... :shrug:

The car has had a little over a month to learn the new mods. But it is still running lean. Buying a new MAF sensor might be a good idea, how much would it cost?
 
BAD NEWS!!! My engine light came back on. All I have on there is the t/b and plenum, stock airbox. Its still running lean. This is pissing me off so much, Im about to take everything off and go back to stock. My idle is perfectly fine, but its still lean. WTF should I do? I just want that damn engine light to go off. ****ing **** ass bitch wut the hell.
 
03gtmustang said:
BAD NEWS!!! My engine light came back on. All I have on there is the t/b and plenum, stock airbox. Its still running lean. This is pissing me off so much, Im about to take everything off and go back to stock. My idle is perfectly fine, but its still lean. WTF should I do? I just want that damn engine light to go off. ****ing **** ass bitch wut the hell.

Read my lips............purchase a NEW MAF sensor............problem solved :nice:
 
Best advice I could give is...before you spend any more money on possibly unneeded parts, go back to stock. Then put the new parts on, one by one to help isolate any problems. Start at the end of the intake and work your way in. Such as, change to a K&N filter, make sure it's running right and no check engine lights, then change the MAF or cold air intake whichever part you have, and continue the process all the way to the upper plenum. This is the way I did it and always suggest to do it, even if the car isn't having any problems. This helps isolate the problem, if the car begins to run bad, so you can go back to the original part and skip over the offending part, then try the next new part to see if your computer/engine "like" the part. It is time consuming, but it does save you from possibly buying unneeded parts. Good luck, but it's not as complicated as hunting down an electrical problem, so it could be worse.
 
PG98GT said:
Best advice I could give is...before you spend any more money on possibly unneeded parts, go back to stock. Then put the new parts on, one by one to help isolate any problems. Start at the end of the intake and work your way in. Such as, change to a K&N filter, make sure it's running right and no check engine lights, then change the MAF or cold air intake whichever part you have, and continue the process all the way to the upper plenum. This is the way I did it and always suggest to do it, even if the car isn't having any problems. This helps isolate the problem, if the car begins to run bad, so you can go back to the original part and skip over the offending part, then try the next new part to see if your computer/engine "like" the part. It is time consuming, but it does save you from possibly buying unneeded parts. Good luck, but it's not as complicated as hunting down an electrical problem, so it could be worse.

The above post is the best advice in this entire thread.

Put it back to stock (MAF, TB, Plenum). Add the plenum. If all is fine, add the TB. If all is still fine, toss the MAF in the trash, because the stock piece is plenty unless you have a supercharger or turbo.
 
Here what I did a couple weeks ago. The current set up was plenum, 75mm t/b, and 85mm MAF. I took the plenum off and went to stock (still had on the 75mm t/b and 85mm MAF) the engine light was still on so I put the plenum back on and took the 85mm MAF off and put on the stock airbox, and now my engine light is still on. So I think Ive narrowed it down to the t/b. I have a k&n in there right now which has never been oiled. BUT I did buy the 85mm maf used, so Im not sure if it was ever oiled so that could be a possibility. So do you guys think I should try cleaning the maf sensor?