Well if the bronze cam gear thing has been solved then I vote for solid roller too. I have always run solid cams (although flat tappet) and have always liked them. Both my Shelby and T-Bird have solid cams and I have no problems with the lash adjustments every so often. I think the key is to get a mild one that does not require too high of spring pressure and all will be well.
Pros and cons of a solid roller cam?
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My old 289 was a solid cam and never had problems with it, even with daily driving.
With poly-locks the rockers didn't have to be adjusted very often, 6 months give or take and usually longer than that.
I only went with a hydraulic cam with my 347 because I wanted to try something different and wanted a very torque 347. When I'm ready to get serious with my 347 it will have a solid cam.
With poly-locks the rockers didn't have to be adjusted very often, 6 months give or take and usually longer than that.
I only went with a hydraulic cam with my 347 because I wanted to try something different and wanted a very torque 347. When I'm ready to get serious with my 347 it will have a solid cam.
dolfan87 said:Ok,
However, Ford saw fit to put a solid cam in the hi-po 289, and the boss 351C. You can't put a non-reliable camshaft in a factory vehicle!
Right in deed. But this is what I meant by a solid and a solid roller. In the meaning of ramp rates. The ramp rates on those motors are nothing of the cams made today. Sure they will be reliable. I'm just in the thinking if I were to go through the trouble of switching over, the lift wouldn't be under .550My hyd is almost there now hehe. I guess you can do the mild roller. But is a mild roller better than a good hyd cam ?
Spoze it penz on wut you want.
Was thinking of a custom hyd. If now one in here is breaking anything, maybe I should look into a solid, yes ? (I'm going to be brought to the darkside I just know it.)
