well, it's me again. With yet another question. I think I already know some of the answers but I just want to hear it from the experts. My blower belt sqeaks. Especially after it gets warmed up and I rev it a little an let off of it. The idler pullies are a little blackened so I assume the belt has been slipping a little now and then. Once it starts, it also sqeaks while idleing. I'm assuming the belt is just needs replaced. Also, I am running a 2.93 pulley with a stock lower. How much boost is this thing producing? I don't know if the previous owner had the blower ported, but I plan to take it apart and check, but according to the dealership, the only mods were the upper pulley, exhaust, and a custom tune. If I port the blower, should I change the pullies to maximize hp? What's your opinion??? Thanks for all the help!!!
A 2.93 with a stock lower is good for 14 PSI. The squeaking could be due to an alignment problem or potentially a bad bearing in one of the idlers maybe. If you port the blower you won't want to push more than 16 PSI, that's about the limit with a ported blower. Just add a 2lb lower to your 2.93 upper once you get her ported. U.M.
You don't think the belt may just be a little loose? I thought I'd go get another belt and while I've got the old one off, check the bearings in the idlers. With the ported blower and a 2lb lower, will I need to have the car tuned again? I'm at 464 rwph right now, according to the dyno sheets I got with the car, do you think I'll be closer to the 500rwhp club? Thanks
Yes, you should be over 500 RWHP if you port and add a lower. Be advised when you near this level you can be running out of fuel pump/ pegging your MAF. I am at 480RWHP (with port & 2.93) and had to add a MAF extender to keep from pegging. My fuel pump duty cycle is @ 90%. All cars vary, but this should give you some idea. BTW I like, and use Gatorback belts. Good luck!
Thanks for the help. What do you mean by pegging the MAF? I planned to upgrade to 2 of the GT fuel pumps, so the fuel pump issue really isn't a problem. What is a MAF extender and what do they cost? Any advice about a cold air kit? I was looking at the JLT kits. They offer 2 seperate ones. Which is better? Thanks again for the info.
The MAF can only read a certain amount of airflow...when the threshold is exceeded, you can no longer be assured of a safe air/fuel ratio. The extender electronically increases the effective range. The MAFia I use cost $150. I have the JLT CAI..It is a good performer, and it looks nice as well. The CAI performs a little better than the RAI...but the RAI is much easier to service/install. Hope this helps...
ABSOLUTELY! Any time you make a change like adding more boost the car will require a re-tune. Adding just the ported blower does not require a re-tune though because you are not really changing the amount of air or fuel being drawn into the cylinder, you're only improving the efficiency of that big air pump on top of the motor. Adding a 2lb lower though does constitute a re-tune because now you are driving the SC faster and pushing more air into the motor. Simply adding a 2lb lower without a re-tune could make your car dangerously lean. Personally I'd get the RAI over the CAI. The CAI kit requires you to move the MAF & air filter into the fender which then makes them a pain in the butt to inspect and service. The RAI costs less and is much easier to install and maintain. The HP/TQ difference between the two kits is negligible at best. Just my 2 cents. U.M.
Thanks U.M and RB 88. Just one more question... What's the difference in adding a 2lb lower and just going to the next size smaller upper? Would really like to go to a KB or something later, so these mods are probably just temp. Also, is there anything we can do about all those damn idlers? Seems like more than needed. Maybe I'm just looking at it wrong or something. Plan to ad the cooling mod as soon as I decide what clutch to put in. Any idea on what 1/4 mile times should be with the 464rwhp I've got now? I know it's quick cause I blew the paint off an old mans z06 sunday night. He was so sure of his self until he saw my purdy red taillights. NEXT!!!
The smaller the upper pulley, the greater the chance of belt slip. Alot of people add the lower cuz the crank pulley is quite large(lots of surface area for the belt to grip). You only need the upper idler to reduce slip. I replaced all my idlers due to the fact that some of the stockers have failed, and I think they look good. You should be in the high 11 sec to low 12 sec range. Glad to help...later
Do they make an aftermarket idler kit? I've got one that's got a little sqeak to it now and i'm sure it won't last long. Can you bypass some of the idlers, or what? I just looked at the steigmeir website about porting and I had no idea that they are only 30 minutes from my house. Everyone says they are the best, any opinion on that? Hey, thanks again for the help. I'll try to stop asking all these questions. Thanks again.
I think I already gave you a link for your pulley ( http://www.billetflow.com ) and you can use that same link for new idlers too! Doug at Billetflow has package deals & specials on complete sets of pulleys and idlers. You can even get anodized idlers in a bunch of different colors. Can't go wrong with Billetflow. ..and no, you can't bypass the idlers. Everyone of them is needed in order to maintain proper belt contact with the accessories and such. Stiegemeier is the best at Eaton porting hands down. Since you are only 30 minutes away you have a huge advantage because you can drive your blower over to their shop instead of shipping it like everyone else. Stiegemeier will even mount your new pulley for you at the time of porting so that will save you some time & money. You won't have to buy or rent your own pulley installation/removal tool. Plus Bob at Stiegemeier has all new gaskets in stock for your Eaton/inlet/throttle body etc. He even has new intercooler mounting bolts (cause you'll fug up one or two of those in the process of supercharger removal). U.M.
