pulling codes

Discussion in 'Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech' started by 89llx, Jul 8, 2010.


  1. 89llx

    89llx Member

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    I put a new [old] computer in my stang and now when I try to pull codes all I get is 000 is this good or bad??
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  2. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Are you sure that you did it correctly? Pick the wrong wire to jumper or plug it into the scanner and you will make smoke inside the computer.

    Dumping the computer diagnostic codes on 86-95 Mustangs

    Revised 19-May-2009 to update drawing for dumping the codes on 86-88 Mustangs with no check engine light.

    Dump the codes and see what the computer says is wrong…Codes may be present in the computer even if the Check Engine light isn’t on.

    Here's the way to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

    Be sure to turn off the A/C, and put the transmission in neutral when dumping the codes. Fail to do this and you will generate a code 67 and not be able to dump the Engine Running codes.

    Dumping the Engine Running codes: The procedure is the same, you start the engine with the test jumper in place. Be sure the A/C is off and the transmission is in neutral. You'll get an 11, then a 4 and the engine will speed up to do the EGR test. After the engine speed decreases back to idle, it will dump the engine running codes.

    Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great. You watch the flashing test lamp or Check Engine Light and count the flashes.

    See Troublcodes.net Trouble Codes OBD & OBD2 Trouble Codes and Technical info & Tool Store. By BAT Auto Technical

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    If your car is an 86-88 stang, you'll have to use the test lamp or voltmeter method. There is no functional check engine light on the 86-88's except possibly the Cali Mass Air cars.

    [​IMG]

    The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.

    89 through 95 cars have a working Check Engine light. Watch it instead of using a test lamp.

    [​IMG]

    The STI has a gray connector shell and a white/red wire. It comes from the same bundle of wires as the self test connector.


    WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.

    What to expect:
    You should get a code 11 (two single flashes in succession). This says that the computer's internal workings are OK, and that the wiring to put the computer into diagnostic mode is good. No code 11 and you have some wiring problems.

    Codes have different answers if the engine is running from the answers that it has when the engine isn't running. It helps a lot to know if you had the engine running when you ran the test.

    Trouble codes are either 2 digit or 3 digit, there are no cars that use both 2 digit codes and 3 digit codes.

    Alternate methods:
    For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see Actron® for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at AutoZone or Wal-Mart.

    Or for a nicer scanner see Digital Ford Code Reader (3145) – It has a 3 digit LCD display so that you don’t have to count flashes or beeps.. Cost is $30.
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  3. 89llx

    89llx Member

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    the tester i have is digital, it is for the obd 1 and i just plug it in to the big black plug near the corner of the fender and firewall and they have a place for the single wire, im just not getting anything, i will try again tomorrow , maybe it was not pluged in good
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  4. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    The single wire is the one to watch out for. The correct wire should have a gray plastic shell.

    WARNING!!! There is a single dark brown connector with a black/orange wire. It is the 12 volt power to the under the hood light. Do not jumper it to the computer test connector. If you do, you will damage the computer.
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  5. 89llx

    89llx Member

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    thanks! i will look at that close
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  6. 89llx

    89llx Member

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    looks like i have the right wires, but my dig code reader is not geting anything, i put new batt in it, and it lights up to 000 but thats it, fyi I just swaped computer,s the car starts and idles fine, so i do not think the comp is toast
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  7. 89llx

    89llx Member

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    i just tried my dig code reader on a diff fox body [same year] and it did the samething , so i think my problem starts with my code reader, i will first call the company and go from their

    Thanks!
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  8. 89llx

    89llx Member

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    do mean i can-not clear my old codes by just unhooking the batt?

    thanks
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  9. jrichker

    jrichker StangNet's favorite TOOL SN Certified Technician Founding Member

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    Use the jumper wire or even a paper clip & the check engine light in the dash to dump the codes. If that does not work, you have computer or wiring problems.
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