Quality Nitrous Kit

[revhead347]

The way I understand it, there were two switches. One activated the solenoid for the nitrous while the other told the tune in the PCM that nitrous was activated. The tuner was unaware that nitrous was activated. POP

Sorry about that. Different dry kit. That's another one of those dry systems I won't deal with.

Kurt

 

[revhead347]

where do you run a fuel jet on a dry kit? ive never messed with dry stuff the idea of pumping one with out the other boggles my mind.

Depends on the dry kit. There are a couple different methods. Some like the Cold Fusion and the Nitrous Works setup have the nozzle in front of the MAF, so that when the cold nitrous hits the MAF it tricks the computer into thinking it's getting a whole lot more air then it is, and adds more fuel. This setup is garbage in my opinion. It's extremely inaccurate and risky. Then there are ones that interrupt the signal from the MAF, and that tells the computer to add more fuel. Then there are ones like Noobz was talking about where it has a chip plugged into the computer that adds the fuel. I don't mess with any of these setups because I don't think any of these methods are terribly reliable. In my opinion it's all of these setups that have given dry setups a bad name.

The only dry setup I like is the 05115 setup from NOS. It's patented technology which is why no one else uses it. Other companies either make a different style of dry kit, or don't make one at all, and try to convince you that wet is better. The 05115 adds the fuel by spiking the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. The injectors pulse at the same rate as when the engine is running N/A, so it doesn't effect your N/A tune at all. They just deliver a lot more fuel because the pressure is higher.

When the wide open throttle switch is activated, it opens a primary nitrous solenoid. The nitrous then flows to both a fuel pressure booster (NOS calls it a fuel solenoid but it really isn't), and a second nitrous solenoid. The fuel pressure booster reduces the nitrous pressure, and then channels it through a line that T-s into the line between the manifold and the fuel pressure regulator. In the T, there is a jet, so that you can moderate the rate at which the nitrous goes in. A small amount will always bleed back to the intake, but the jet will keep a constant pressure on the top of the fuel pressure regulator. The pressure forces down on the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator which causes the fuel pressure to spike to an exact pressure. About 65 psi for a 75 shot, and about 95psi for a 150 shot. You adjust that pressure with a jet just like you would on a wet kit. There is a fuel pressure switch on the fuel rail that closes the circuit to the second nitrous relay when the fuel pressure spikes. I really like this setup, because you can't get the nitrous unless you already have the fuel. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is. It's actually pretty easy to install, and very reliable.

Kurt

 

[Jack's95gt]

Cold Fusion is junk. That **** will blow your engine up. However, that doesn't mean you can't use some of the parts off of the kit. Toss the solenoid right in the trash. It's a rebuilt piece of crap. You can keep the bottle as a spare and some of the lines and stuff for later use. This is the tried and true kit for a 5.0 Mustang.

I can't believe that I bought this kit. It's suppose to be made in the USA, buy I find it hard to believe that. I'm going to buy a couple of quality solenoids and give it a shot.

 

[srtthis]

Depends on the dry kit. There are a couple different methods. Some like the Cold Fusion and the Nitrous Works setup have the nozzle in front of the MAF, so that when the cold nitrous hits the MAF it tricks the computer into thinking it's getting a whole lot more air then it is, and adds more fuel. This setup is garbage in my opinion. It's extremely inaccurate and risky. Then there are ones that interrupt the signal from the MAF, and that tells the computer to add more fuel. Then there are ones like Noobz was talking about where it has a chip plugged into the computer that adds the fuel. I don't mess with any of these setups because I don't think any of these methods are terribly reliable. In my opinion it's all of these setups that have given dry setups a bad name.

The only dry setup I like is the 05115 setup from NOS. It's patented technology which is why no one else uses it. Other companies either make a different style of dry kit, or don't make one at all, and try to convince you that wet is better. The 05115 adds the fuel by spiking the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. The injectors pulse at the same rate as when the engine is running N/A, so it doesn't effect your N/A tune at all. They just deliver a lot more fuel because the pressure is higher.

When the wide open throttle switch is activated, it opens a primary nitrous solenoid. The nitrous then flows to both a fuel pressure booster (NOS calls it a fuel solenoid but it really isn't), and a second nitrous solenoid. The fuel pressure booster reduces the nitrous pressure, and then channels it through a line that T-s into the line between the manifold and the fuel pressure regulator. In the T, there is a jet, so that you can moderate the rate at which the nitrous goes in. A small amount will always bleed back to the intake, but the jet will keep a constant pressure on the top of the fuel pressure regulator. The pressure forces down on the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator which causes the fuel pressure to spike to an exact pressure. About 65 psi for a 75 shot, and about 95psi for a 150 shot. You adjust that pressure with a jet just like you would on a wet kit. There is a fuel pressure switch on the fuel rail that closes the circuit to the second nitrous relay when the fuel pressure spikes. I really like this setup, because you can't get the nitrous unless you already have the fuel. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is. It's actually pretty easy to install, and very reliable.

Kurt

doesnt sound as bad as most kits. and i think its a lot like how the ZEX dry kits work. if i trusted the aftermarket FPR more it would be better but until magnafuel makes a on rail FPR im stuck with aeromotive junk. and im really not a fan of it at all but i dont know of a better one out there for mounting to the stock rails.

 

[Noobz347]

Depends on the dry kit. There are a couple different methods. Some like the Cold Fusion and the Nitrous Works setup have the nozzle in front of the MAF, so that when the cold nitrous hits the MAF it tricks the computer into thinking it's getting a whole lot more air then it is, and adds more fuel. This setup is garbage in my opinion. It's extremely inaccurate and risky. Then there are ones that interrupt the signal from the MAF, and that tells the computer to add more fuel. Then there are ones like Noobz was talking about where it has a chip plugged into the computer that adds the fuel. I don't mess with any of these setups because I don't think any of these methods are terribly reliable. In my opinion it's all of these setups that have given dry setups a bad name.

The only dry setup I like is the 05115 setup from NOS. It's patented technology which is why no one else uses it. Other companies either make a different style of dry kit, or don't make one at all, and try to convince you that wet is better. The 05115 adds the fuel by spiking the fuel pressure in the fuel rail. The injectors pulse at the same rate as when the engine is running N/A, so it doesn't effect your N/A tune at all. They just deliver a lot more fuel because the pressure is higher.

When the wide open throttle switch is activated, it opens a primary nitrous solenoid. The nitrous then flows to both a fuel pressure booster (NOS calls it a fuel solenoid but it really isn't), and a second nitrous solenoid. The fuel pressure booster reduces the nitrous pressure, and then channels it through a line that T-s into the line between the manifold and the fuel pressure regulator. In the T, there is a jet, so that you can moderate the rate at which the nitrous goes in. A small amount will always bleed back to the intake, but the jet will keep a constant pressure on the top of the fuel pressure regulator. The pressure forces down on the diaphram in the fuel pressure regulator which causes the fuel pressure to spike to an exact pressure. About 65 psi for a 75 shot, and about 95psi for a 150 shot. You adjust that pressure with a jet just like you would on a wet kit. There is a fuel pressure switch on the fuel rail that closes the circuit to the second nitrous relay when the fuel pressure spikes. I really like this setup, because you can't get the nitrous unless you already have the fuel. It sounds a lot more complicated than it is. It's actually pretty easy to install, and very reliable.

Kurt

I think that this is the kit that I have sitting on my garage floor. I bought it for a song from someone on this forum. When I got it, one of the b-nuts on the feed line was cracked so it's been sitting there waiting for me to decide what I want to do with it. I had planned (in my head) to maybe convert it to a wet/plate system and install it beneath my Kenne Bell (I didn't want to shoot N20 and fuel through the screws on the blower). Your description has me re-thinking that plan though. I already run a fuel system capable of supporting the blower and elevated pressures.

Hmmmm....

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, I know there are guys who run the dry kits with the Kenne Bell, but it is more difficult to tune. With the blower already there, I would consider two options. Either run a meth injection kit along with the dry kit as it is, or consider converting it to a wet kit and run a seperate tank of high octane fuel with the nitrous kit. Nitrous and forced induction together make a killer combination. Either way will allow you to run a lot more timing, and give you mo powa. I guess if you don't want to inject fuel into the top of the blower, it would be better to run the nitrous the way it is, and just inject methanol above the blower.

Kurt

 

[Noobz347]

I've been waiting for a windfall of a ton of time on my hands and nothing to do with it. The plate system would be ideal. Might take some modification of the bracket for the nose but it wouldn't be major. I can run a dry shot through the blower with no issues but running nitrous and fuel through the blower... Umm.. no. lol Not a fan of that idea.

I might try the dry shot with the regulator. I think I have all the pieces and parts with exception of the throttle switch. I'll need to replace that bad feed line too. Might start very modestly and ramp up slowly to see how well it does. The good part is that I have the wideband to back up the changes.

 

[revhead347]

Oh that's awesome. Having a wideband will just make it work great. I would just start with a small jet on the nitrous, and a small jet on the fuel side and just bring the fuel down slowly with the wideband. Their are two versions of the 05115 dry kit. The early models like mine have a T that comes apart so that you can use a regular nitrous jet in there. The newer models have a one piece T with a fixed orifice, so you have to change the whole T. You don't happen to have a fuel pressure gauge in your car do you?

Kurt

 

[Noobz347]

Oh that's awesome. Having a wideband will just make it work great. I would just start with a small jet on the nitrous, and a small jet on the fuel side and just bring the fuel down slowly with the wideband. Their are two versions of the 05115 dry kit. The early models like mine have a T that comes apart so that you can use a regular nitrous jet in there. The newer models have a one piece T with a fixed orifice, so you have to change the whole T. You don't happen to have a fuel pressure gauge in your car do you?

Kurt

Yes.. I run FP, Vac/Boost, and an AFR gauge fed by my LM-1.

My fuel pump is a 255 High Press, so volume is not effected by pressure rises as much as a standard pressure fuel pump. Also running the KB BAP, so pump voltage is constant and not affected by voltage spikes/drops.

I'd be inclined to order that fixed Tee that you're talking about vs. using the one with the swappable orifices (that's the one I have by the way).

 

[revhead347]

Well I think you are well setup to run the dry kit then. I run a standard 255lph in tank, and it was fine up to a 125 shot. The pressure would bleed off on the 150 shot, so I had to add a T-Rex inline to keep the pressure up to a consistent 96psi. I prefer the removable orifice T because it's more affordable to tune. There are also more jet sizes available then there are fixed T sizes available. Either one works the same though. I personally don't comfortable without a fuel pressure gauge. It's probably just a control thing, but I feel more comfortable when I can actually see the fuel pressure spiking. The adjustable pressure switch maxes out 65psi. That's not that important, but it's good to know for informational purposes. If you are successful in getting that dry kit working with the Kenne Bell, you will definately have a unique setup.

I have also realized that we have totally hijacked a thread here.

Kurt