What is a fair price to get an 8.8 explorer rear end shortened? I am selling my versailles in favor of the better brakes of the 8.8 and I need to get it shortened. There is a shop across the street from my house that does this so I have to go there tomorrow to get a price on it. If any of you have had a rear end shortened let me know how much it cost because I think that this place is quite expensive and I don't want to get ripped off. Also, is there any pitfalls of the explorer 8.8 I need to be aware of and what type of center section generally comes in a 97/98? Thanks
rear end shortening
- Thread starter 351w_swap
- Start date
-
Sponsors (?)
I think I want to shorten the housing to 45 inches flange to flange. What are the different ways to go? I am putting this into my 65 and I want a shortened rear end to allow for some deep dish rims. I have moved the frame rails in almost 3 inches per side and I going to make some 315s fit under the fender even if I have to put some big flares on the quarters.
I'd recommend converting the housing to use 9" style ends. This would allow you to get id of the C-clip axles. It'll cost a little more to get the custom aftermarket axles, but you'll be WAY better off. If you use the "Torino" style ends, you can still use the Explorer brakes on it. You might also want to weld the axle tube to the center section. The stock setup iss just press-fit and plug-welded. 315 is a lot of tire for a 65-66 Mustang. Good luck.
67 Evil Eleanor
New Member
We just take the ole pipe cutter and cut out what we don't need. If you take your time and have a good cutter, then its fairly east to do. The pipe cutter leaves the ends beveled so that they are easy to weld. Just spot in about three places then check to see if the axle and bearing fit ok, if so then finish welding. If you are using 28 spline axels, they can be harvested from just about anything with a 8" or 9"rear. If you are going to remove 3" on both, that may require new axles.
I am contemplating going with a moser kit that has custom axles and a spool as well as c clip eliminators, it was like 550 on their website and I can deal with that. evil eleanor: How big of a pipe cutter do you have, i havent seen anything that could cut pipe 3 inches in diameter? The whole point of buying the explorer rear is that it has the good disk brakes so I will be figuring out a way to put the same brakes on it (rebuilt of course). thanks for your replies, it gives me food for thought
ratio411
Founding Member
Why not just use a 9" housing and convert it to Exploder rear discs???
If the Versillies housing has "Torino" ends on it, the 8.8 brakes can swap to it.
That way you have the best, lightest, and least expensive brakes, while keeping the strength and lightweight of the 9".
If the Versillies housing has "Torino" ends on it, the 8.8 brakes can swap to it.
That way you have the best, lightest, and least expensive brakes, while keeping the strength and lightweight of the 9".
because I don't see the point in paying 350 dollars for a new kit when i can buy a rear whole rear for the same amount. I don't want to keep the versailles because I want the better brakes and it doesn't make any sense for me to keep the rear when I am going to have to cut everything that makes it a versailles off anyways. I am doing a 4 link and shortening the housing anyways so why wouldnt I go with an 8.8? By the time I rebuild the explorer rear to better specs than the versailles, I will have little more money into it than I would in keeping the versailles and modifying it to my specs. I already have a buyer lined up so im not too worried about selling it and going with an explorer rear.
ratio411
Founding Member
Not sure what you mean here...
You don't need a kit.
Just unbolt them from an 8.8 rear.
Anyway, I see what you mean.
You are doing a bunch of fabbing... So why not?
Just for the benefit of others that might read this though:
You don't need a kit, just the brakes from an Exploder or Crown Vic.
Also, the 8.8, while strong, is shy of the strength of a 9", while being heavier at the same time.
Good luck with you 8.8 project!
Fwiw: Where I live, 150 to 200 bux is going rate to fab up a rear end housing to the length needed. Also includes setting pinion angle and all misc bracket welding.
Does not include shortening axles! I have the correct axles, so I didn't ask a price on that.
Dave
Dark Knight
Founding Member
Just remember, the 8.8's pinion is centered, the 9in is off to the side. You might need to have the axles shortened different lengths if you want the driveshaft straight. I'd go with different ends or aftermarket axles. If they shorten the axles by cutting the flange and re-welding it, they WILL break. With C-clips, you cant just cut the end and respline them.
Just to clear things up, I posted this thread, I am just on a buddies account right now at his house. I know that I could do a junkyard pull but there is no where in the area that will allow me to do this, they all told me that the explorer rear is worth too much to let me pull the brakes off. I was told I would have to buy the whole rear, the only other option is to buy a new kit and like I said, I could spend 350 on the kit or 350 on the whole rear. Which would you chose?
Thanks for the info dark knight, guess ill just get some custom moser axles.
Thanks for the info dark knight, guess ill just get some custom moser axles.
ratio411
Founding Member
Just a thought:
Buy the whole rear, just make sure you get one that has Trac-Lock and 3.73 gears. Pretty common for Exploders/Mountaineers.
That way, you get your brakes and then can sell the TL and gears off seperately to someone on the boards. Maybe a Stang guy or someone with a peg-leg, high gear F150.
That is what I am going to do... I have an F150 that needs gear and posi, while the brakes will go on one of my cars.
I got my first set for 100 bux off an 8.8", but I have another car I want to do as well. The yard did seperate the stuff first time around, but I think they realized they shouldn't have, so I won't get away with it again.
Dave
Buy the whole rear, just make sure you get one that has Trac-Lock and 3.73 gears. Pretty common for Exploders/Mountaineers.
That way, you get your brakes and then can sell the TL and gears off seperately to someone on the boards. Maybe a Stang guy or someone with a peg-leg, high gear F150.
That is what I am going to do... I have an F150 that needs gear and posi, while the brakes will go on one of my cars.
I got my first set for 100 bux off an 8.8", but I have another car I want to do as well. The yard did seperate the stuff first time around, but I think they realized they shouldn't have, so I won't get away with it again.
Dave
1320stang
Founding Member
Without a jig, how do you know if the rear end is square or not? Even after welding, it's recommended that you check the rear for warpage due to heat.
too late, I am selling the versailles. While I dont really care for the 8.8 that much, the explorer rear will come with what I want in a rear and it is cheap (relatively). I am just going to shorten the housing and pick up some moser axles and while i am at it, I will probably replace the clutches in the trac loc. Thanks again for all the info. If you have anything to add, please do
67 Evil Eleanor
New Member
I tack in about three places, use a straight edge to keep the tube lined. Then check to see how the axles fit with the bearings on. They should slid right in. I have harvested several different axles so i use one of then to check fit. If not, once tacked the ends back on and you have the correct lenth, you can have the axles cut or new ones, then test fit before final welding with the finished axles. Just make sure you use a heavy tack. I stitch weld about 1" then moving about 1/3 around the tube untill I close up the tube. On the pipe cutter, I think it will handle up to 4". I have a large vice that I clamp the housing in when I cut them. This is where you have to take your time and make sure the cutter runs true and not thread. You can use a hot spot then smack a cold wet rag on it to pull the tubes, if you have to, so far I haven't had to do this. if you check the fit with a good tack, it can't move. Start your weld between the tacks and take your time.
1320stang
Founding Member
I dunno, of course I've only dealt with narrowed axles in high HP/TQ situations in drag cars. Narrowing a rear end without a jig is not something I'd be comfortable in that situation. I know it can be done, but I'd think bearing wear would be prevailent, this is why they make jigs (just a trued piece of tubing with aluminum bushings for the carrier and the housing ends) instead of just using the method you speak of. I'm assuming you're just lining up the end you've cut off up with the outside of the housing, but I've seen housings bent that the tube had to be straightened as in the jig, the alignment of the outside of the housing was off by as much as a 1/4 inch!!!
I'm not saying your method can't work, but in my opinion, you have a lot greater chance of an alignment problem.
I'm not saying your method can't work, but in my opinion, you have a lot greater chance of an alignment problem.
xoxbxfx
Founding Member
if you are looking to save money, you blew that out the window by choosing an 8.8...
I paid $100 to shorten an 8.8 and something like 250 for moser axles. I narrowed it 4" (2" on each side...it was a 99+ mustang 8.8) and adding up it rub just a tiny bit with 94+ mustang wheels.
I paid $100 to shorten an 8.8 and something like 250 for moser axles. I narrowed it 4" (2" on each side...it was a 99+ mustang 8.8) and adding up it rub just a tiny bit with 94+ mustang wheels.
Similar threads
