Recent Purchases

[claytucc3]

I have the Bassani X pipie with the Magnaflow pipes. I am thinking of trading the X in for the more aggressive sounding H pipe.

 

[xxrequiemxx]

I had the same experience with mine. The clamps that came with the A/T mufflers wouldn't clamp down tight enough. I went to the local hardware store and spent maybe $5 for a pair of really good ones and it fixed the problem.

Someone told me that on another thread.

I was able to get mine clamped down enough so that they were not loose, etc.

I think I will go down and get a good pair and try that as well.

Thanks for the other info everybody.

 

[xxrequiemxx]

Off Road H or Prochamber. No X.

Which of the two would you say is "better"? Or what is the difference?

By adding on one of these - what sound difference will I encounter? Also - will I pass inspection with this?

 

[kooldawg6]

Pypes and FRPP both make an X pipe that you install and are able to retain your cats for emission purposes. You have to have the H pipe section cut out to do this. Here is the pic of the FRPP Mustang with the X pipe in place(it is painted blue).

 

[xxrequiemxx]

Kooldawg, and by cutting out and adding that xpipe in I will enhance my cars sound?

 

[kooldawg6]

That I do not know I do know that the X gains slightly more power than the H. Casey4s has the FRPP X pipe, but has yet to install it as far as I know and he also has the Flowmaster mufflers. I've read on here that the X/Flow combo isn't ideal for sound, but I have yet to hear it in person.

 

[ufnavy06]

I'm planning on going the prochamber route with my flowmasters.... everything I've heard says don't go X pipe if you want sound from the combination. I haven't heard it but the general consensus is axle back + X pipe = But axle back + H pipe =

 

[bigcat]

I'm planning on going the prochamber route with my flowmasters.... everything I've heard says don't go X pipe if you want sound from the combination. I haven't heard it but the general consensus is axle back + X pipe = But axle back + H pipe =

chambered mufflers + X = chambered mufflers and H =

X pipes sound better with a straight thru type muffler.

 

[xxrequiemxx]

Update:

I just purchased the following:

05-07 MUSTANG GT STEEDA INTAKE / TUNER KIT
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/images/5553131kit.gif

PYPES OFF ROAD H-PIPE 05/08 MUSTANG GT
http://www.brenspeed.com/mustang_2005/images/2005h.gif

I am so excited! I am going to attemp the H pipe install myself.

Wish me luck!

 

[bigcat]

whe i did the H pipe, i used ramps under the front, and a long extension to reach the nuts at the exhaust manifold. nothing special is required. just be sure to leave the connection in the H loose so that you can fit it to the car. also, dont forget to readjust your muffler tips in the cut out. they will move when you install the mid pipe.

although you didnt mention it, i hope you plan on installing the CAI/tune yourself. that is the easiest mod to do on the car.

 

[xxrequiemxx]

I will definetly do that install myself. After installing my shifter and exhaust, my confidence level has gone up.

Thanks for the info man - appreciate it.

 

[bigcat]

if you have any specific questions, feel free to contact me.

 

[Hoboattacker]

I know the pro 5.0 use to be real popular with the fox body crowd, it just seems we perfer the MGW or hurst for the S-197. As for myself, I've just allways used hurst from back in the 70's when I first started driving and playing with ford muscle cars. Beings my 07 is so retro looking, it has to have a hurst with the hurst emblem on the truck lid. As far as modding, it's sorta like a diease, once you start, you can't stop.

MGW is the "luxury" shifter. Hurst is the "poor mans" shifter (in terms of price). Pro 5.0 and Steeda Tri-Ax are basically the same shifter. The MGW/Steeda/Pro 5.0 all have a spring to help "throw" you into 3rd gear from 2nd gear whereas the hurst does not have that. All of the shifters reduce your throw by around 50% and the MGW is the only shifter that has adjustable throws from 20% (or something like that) shorter than stock to up to 50% shorter.

To get rid of the "lock-out" from 2nd to 3rd or 3rd to 4th you need to get a K-Member brace. A shifter alone will NOT solve this problem. It will help the lock-out but it will NOT solve it.