Release bearing question

[RUNINAGT]

Folks my car is going threw release bearing like nothing. This is going to be the 2nd one within like 10 months that is squealing when I either barley press the clutch pedal or if I am sitting there @ idle not pressing the clutch pedal. If I press the pedal about 1-2"s the squeal stops. Clutch is working normally. I replaced the clutch this past summer with a close to O.E clutch from 50resto. My car has hardly any mods, so no need for a super clutch. The car has 89,000 miles on it. Original T-5.

I was told to get an adjustable cable and see if that would work, that possibly the original cable is stretched? It is the original cable. Now once the bearing is replace it is quiet for 3-4 months, and then the squeal starts. .

I am tired of pulling this transmission down to replace it. Yes I used a Ford part. It can't be the clutch because it did it with the original clutch that was in the car as well. However just not in that short amount of time.

Is the cable what I need? Or do you have a different remedy?

 

[Noobz347]

Replace with an OEM (from Ford) T/O bearing. An adjustable cable will only mask the problem and will probably give you new problems.

I've had OEM bearings go south on me before but at nearly the rate that after market bearings crap out.

 

[HotFox]

Sounds to me the bearing is against the clutch fingers all the time. There should be a air gap between the clutch fingers and the bearing to keep it from spinning all the time.

Scott

 

[RUNINAGT]

This is a Ford OEM bearing. Purchased from Ford. IDK about the clutch fingers.

 

[Noobz347]

Sounds to me the bearing is against the clutch fingers all the time. There should be a air gap between the clutch fingers and the bearing to keep it from spinning all the time.

Scott

The bearing on these cars are ALWAYS against the clutch fingers unless there's something wrong. There's no air gap. It's designed to remain in contact. The tension on the cable through the stock quadrant is supposed to ensure that. Firewall adjusters on aftermarket setups perform that function for OEM quadrants that have been replaced.

 

[RUNINAGT]

The bearing on these cars are ALWAYS against the clutch fingers unless there's something wrong. There's no air gap. It's designed to remain in contact. The tension on the cable through the stock quadrant is supposed to ensure that. Firewall adjusters on aftermarket setups perform that function for OEM quadrants that have been replaced.

So do I need the adjustable cable with the quadrant and adjuster @ the firewall? Also am I thinking correctly by saying that I can adjust the clutch to where it is like me pressing the clutch pedal down about 1-2" s to make the noise STOP. It is so dern noisy. I am embarrassed to have a good looking ride but sound like It's running off birds.

 

[5.0Droptop]

Good point Noobz347. Does the car still have the OEM quadrant? If so, pull up on the clutch pedal untill it cliks and then push it to the floor to adjust it.

 

[Noobz347]

You can but that's not going fix the problem. Only mask it and then probably a short time. I see where you said that the bearing you installed is OEM. Well.... it's bad. It needs to be replaced.

Were it me... I'd replace it with another OEM bearing. Your chances improve that you won't have to do it yet again. It's pretty crappy luck but all I can tell you is that I've had much better success with Ford bearings than I have with after market bearings (from several vendors though admitedly, I've not tried them all).

 

[5.0Droptop]

Im thinking maybe its not a bad bearing, so much as after 10 mos the clutch disc is wearing and he hasnt adjusted the cable to make up the slack and now its chattering against the fingers of the pressure plate...that would explain why the sound goes away when he puts tension on the cable.....Just my opinion.

 

[Noobz347]

Good point Noobz347. Does the car still have the OEM quadrant? If so, pull up on the clutch pedal untill it cliks and then push it to the floor to adjust it.

Speaking of good points... Droptop reminds me of another TEMPORARY fix for ya. Climb up under the dash. On the OEM quadrant you will see a hook. It's made of plastic and is the same color as the rest of the quadrant. Push the clutch down an inch or two and hold that hook with your thumb while pulling the clutch pedal back up.

Do this until you get two clicks. This will put more pressure on the T/O bearing and force it harder against the clutch face. It will probably stop your squeeking (at least for a time... until the bearing finishing eating itself out from the inside).

Word of caution though... The stock quadrant is designed to be self adjusting. If for whatever reason, you pull that clutch pedal up (toward the driver) it will self-adjust and you'll be right back to where you were. You'll have to re-accomplish the steps above to make it stop squeeling again.

This is just a stop gap measure until you're able to swap the bearing again.

 

[HotFox]

The bearing on these cars are ALWAYS against the clutch fingers unless there's something wrong. There's no air gap. It's designed to remain in contact. The tension on the cable through the stock quadrant is supposed to ensure that. Firewall adjusters on aftermarket setups perform that function for OEM quadrants that have been replaced.

My bad

 

[Noobz347]

My bad

No worries... one of the, "wierdnesses" of the Fox.

 

[5.0Droptop]

If and when you pull the t5 out, take a look at the bearing retainer on the front of the t5. Its the cap around the input shaft. If its worn from where the Throwout bearing rides I would replace it whith a steel one.

 

[Noobz347]

If and when you pull the t5 out, take a look at the bearing retainer on the front of the t5. Its the cap around the input shaft. If its worn from where the Throwout bearing rides I would replace it whith a steel one.

I'd even go so far as to say replace it whether it needs it or not.

 

[RUNINAGT]

Well one of our techs just walked out to the car to check the adjustment and he told me his opinion that I have no play at all in the pedal. He thinks it should have some play. He also thinks my clutch is hard??

 

[5.0Droptop]

Well one of our techs just walked out to the car to check the adjustment and he told me his opinion that I have no play at all in the pedal. He thinks it should have some play. He also thinks my clutch is hard??

I would follow what noobz347 posted on how to adjust the clutch with an oem quadrant...if you still have the oem quadrant in it... Dont know about play in the pedal.... try adjusting it and get back to us....

 

[RUNINAGT]

will do.

 

[ID89GT]

Did you grease the new bearing when you put it in?

 

[jrichker]

Clutch pedal adjustment with aftermarket quadrant and/or firewall adjuster and cable: I like to have the clutch completely disengaged and still have about 1.5” travel left before the pedal hits the floor. This means that I have only about 1” of free play at the top before the pedal starts to disengage the clutch. Keep in mind that these figures are all approximate. When properly adjusted, there will not be any slack in the clutch cable. You will have 4-15 lbs preload on the clutch cable.

The quadrant needs to be replaced if you use any type of aftermarket cable or adjuster. My preference is a Ford Racing quadrant, adjustable cable and Steeda firewall adjuster. The adjustable Ford Racing cable is just a good as the stock OEM cable. It allows a greater range of adjustment than a stock cable with a aftermarket quadrant and firewall adjuster. Combined with the Steeda adjuster, it lets you set the initial cable preload and then fine tune the clutch engagement point to your liking without getting under the car.

Using a stock OEM cable and a single hook quadrant may result in not having any free pedal travel before the clutch starts to disengage. I found this out the hard way.

See Summit Racing - High Performance Car and Truck Parts l 800-230-3030 for the following parts.
Ford Racing M-7553-B302 - Ford Racing V-8 Mustang Adjustable Clutch Linkage Kits - Overview - SummitRacing.com Cable and quadrant assembly $90
Steeda Autosports 555-7021 - Steeda Autosports Firewall Cable Adjusters - Overview - SummitRacing.com Steeda firewall adjuster. $40