replaced rear pads, now massive brake squealing

[Torinalth]

well... sunday i replaced my rear pads (they were squeaking a fair amount under very hard braking) well about 10 miles into my new brake pads they screach like i am flaying the skin of 100 cats... its astonishing... school buses and dump trucks have nothing in my brakes as far as how damn loud they are... very light braking to light medium braking its silent, but anything in the medium range (my normal usage) is bad, medium high is even louder and sounds worse, and light heavy braking it goes back down to where teh medium is. i jamed the brakes once and it seemed to screach then stop making noise till i had to let up on it.

the rotors are not new, and pads are wearaver gold... WTF? did i miss something?

Torinalth

 

[03ghoststang]

take them off and resurface them with some sand paper that should make it stop squeaking

 

[2013 Geee T]

Did you turn the rotors?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Did you lubricate the slide pins and apply anti-squeal grease to the backsides of the pads??

Also, cheap parts store pads are more prone to squealing than OEM pads

 

[dlascoskie]

All good points so far. Make sure you:

*resurface rotors
*clean rotors with brake parts cleaner
*lightly grease slide pins with high temp brake grease
*make sure the pads are in correctly. the caliper should've gone together relatively easily and the axle should be easily spun by hand.
*use proper torque on all brake bolts.
*use proper techniques for mating the pads with the rotors (should be included with the pads, but generally is 5-10 35mph stops, followed by 5-10 45-55mph stops.)

-I hate to say it, but with the things you've described, you might've glazed those pads already. You can try the sandpaper trick as mentioned above, but you might have to replace them.

 

[SilverBullet00]

I have the same problem, except I got new rotors as well.. I have redone the rears 3 times now and it still squeeks! Soon I will be taking off the Autozone crap and getting the OEM stuff.....

 

[Torinalth]

No i did not turn the rotors (no machine to do it with)
i did spray and wipe them down with brake cleaner
did not grease the slide pins.... howver i dont tihnk you can on the rear...
pads were together fine
all bolts torqued as i normally have
and did brake them in slowly (35mph streets till i get to the highway, then 45 for 2 miles till i get to the 55 zone)

i dont see that i did anything wrong, aside from the rotors...

i bit the bullet and decided to start form scratch, instead of trying to track down the culprit i am replacing the rotors with brembos, pads with hawks, and getting all new mounting hardware for grins. might as well stop chasing a gremlin when i can exterminate all the lower life from the get go. shoulda left the other pads on, they were still 1/2 good.

Torinalth

 

[triggz]

Did you put the pads in facing the correct way? Make sure the pad material is actually touching the rotor.. may sound dumb, but its possible to oversee.

Make sure the antimoan brackets (the thin metal frames) are all in the correct spots and arent beat up. you can remove them completely if they appear damaged, they are not crucial.

If that doesnt help, try disassembling the caliper, cleaning out the slide pins and the holes they go in and relubricate everything and make sure no debris gets in..

 

[Mustang5L5]

Yes, the rear slide pins can be greased. It's actually very common for them to seize up inside the bracket and cause the caliper to push on one side only causing uneven wear.

Anytime you see uneven pad wear on any brake, check the slide pins, one is probably sticking or stuck solid

 

[SilverBullet00]

Make sure the antimoan brackets (the thin metal frames) are all in the correct spots and arent beat up. you can remove them completely if they appear damaged, they are not crucial.

Are you talking about the 4 retainers at the end of each pad? Wont the pads be too loose and cause vibrations and more noise?

 

[dlascoskie]

Mustang 5L5, who is that girl in your avatar??

Uh, woops, sorry for the thread highjack. Carry on.

By the way, smart move on the brembo's and hawks. Now make sure you do the front too.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Denise from www.sportsbybrooks.com


back on topic. I wouldn't ditch the anti-rattle clips. Make sure they are tight on the pad. You might need to bend the tabs in with needlenose so they don't fall off. Lubricate the anti-rattle clips with brake grease and install the pads into the U-shaped retainer bracket from the top.

Also, other steps that help with squeal are to completely clean the hub mating surface from rust and apply plenty of anti-sieze compound to the hub. The anti-seize prevents the rotor from sticking and also acts to dampen noise.

Also, while it doesn't contribute to the noise, torque your lugs in sequence with a torque wrench. Go 50-75-100 ft=;lbs in a star pattern

 

[Torinalth]

i do something similer with my lugs... and my fronts are already brembo rotors, but have stock PBR pads that came with my calipers. going to powerslot when my fronts wear down and hawk HPS pads. its sad that these damn autozone pads screwed everything up.... the funny thing is that the previous pads had some odd 45k miles on them and were also from autozone (bendix)... oh well.

Torinalth

 

[Mustang5L5]

It's hit or miss with them. I just did a similar brake job myself Fronts are brand new Brembos and PBR pads from the Mach 1 kit i just did.

Out back i just did fresh Autozone pads.

Guess what squealed?? The rears.

So i took them off and went to town relubing everything and greasing and cleaning. Put them back together and once in a rare while i'll still get a little squeak from the rear. Oh well, last time i ever run AZ pads. I'll stick to OEM stuff