Rev higher?

[StangCollecter]

I have a 93 LX 2.3L, it is pretty tired and has about 95k miles on it. I am thinking about a rebuild for it including new pistons to go forged and prepare it for a turbo later.

So, I am wondering what it takes to get the Rev limit to 6-7k. Right now it is like 4500 before it hits a wall. Is this just a cam and spring change or????

Also, I have heard that the 2.5L crank is stronger than the 2.3 ones, any one else know if this is true?

If so, what rods and pistons can I run? I know Esslinger has their stroker kits, but it seems I can probably piece something together on ebay for much less. I know Chevy 5.7 rods work with some combos.... As for pistons, the only forged units I know of for the 2.3 are either stock turbos, or Wisecos, any others?

Also, I have the (unloved) dual plug head, and was thinking about converting to an older head that flows better, and doing a port job on it as well as a good set of oversized valves. Any thoughts?

I'm not looking to make a 2.7, 2.8 or anything that big, unless it is all in the rods and crank. If the block already needs boring, then that's fine.

Also, I am thinking individual throttle body injection, Anyone run this on a 2.3 before? I can get my hands on a set for a little more than a rotated upper intake, so money is not the issue with that.

Finally I am going to need to swap to a T-5. Anyone know if the clutch from a 5.0 will work with it? If so I already have the clutch, if not I'll have to sell what I have to get one for the 2.3L. I know the trans side is the same for T-5s but the bellhousigs are quite different as well as the flywheels.

As some of you may remember, I was talking about either a turbo swap or a 351 swap. Well, I have decided to get a 87-93 LX V8 and use that for transportation while I rebuild the 2.3L. Once I'm done with it, then I'll look at the 351 Swap for the other car.

 

[RustBucket]

I can answer some of your questions.

As for Rods. I think Esslinger sells them in both stock and stroker lengths/end bores. Crower has a nice line of 2.3 rods as well. As for piston choices, you've got TRW/Sealed Power (stock replacement), Wiseco, Diamond, and I believe CP also.

As for the head, take a look at a later model 2.5 dual plug head. Reports say that the later DP head flows a ton better than the earlier casting. You can run an older single plug head with the DIS ignition, it's been done before. All it takes is a little wiring and ditching a coil pack.

The 5.0 clutch will not work on a 2.3 flywheel. Consider a flywheel for an SVO or a Turbo Coupe when you do the swap. They use a slightly larger diameter clutch and pressure plate and there seems to be a better aftermarket for this setup. It'll use the same 2.3 bellhousing and clutch linkage so you're good there.

There's some folks running an adapter plate and custom flywheels to use a 5.0 bell/clutch setup, but it's spendy.

Good luck!

 

[StangCollecter]

Thanks, I think the 2.5 head will be easier to lacate as well, ton of wrecked rangers in chicago area. Might be able to just get the whole motor then rebuild that one and sell the one in the car now.

Would be a few steps easier than getting a 2.5 crank, then a 2.5 head, then my block bored out a lot to take it all.

As for pistons and rods, will have to look around to see which are most economical. While this won't be a 100 dollar engine, I don't want it to run thousands either.

 

[RustBucket]

Look at Crower's Sportsman series rods. Best bang for the buck if you're not building some super exotic 11,000RPM screamer. I know they make them in the stock 2.3 length and a couple of longer lengths, but I don't know if one of the longer lengths is the 2.5 length or not. It would be something to check on. If you can find the stock 2.5 rod length, and compare it to Crower's offerings you might find what you're looking or.

The Sportsman rods run in the 320-350 range for a set. Most of the pistons aside from the Sealed Power slugs also run in the mid 300 dollar range.

 

[88stangmangt]

im using diamond since mine got damaged....other than that im keeping my stock rods...i have seen them run 400+ hp all day long with no problems...also chevy 5.7" rods will work but you need shorter pistons to compensate for your longer rod....all that does is keep the piston at TDC for longer. it doesnt increase your bore size or anything like that. so unless you looking to replace the whole rotating assembly i would leave it all alone(your not gonna break the crank). Dont even bore it...95k is nothing...do a hone/cross hatch on it and get some rings from total seal...and arp bolts and studs from summit and a felpro 1035 HG/clevite 77 bearings and call it good.My esslinger cam is from 3-7.5k i upgraded the springs and had a set of big valves and a major port job done on my head(of course you need a chip to overrun the rev limiter in my case i have a WMS standalone)you also need a svo/tc Ecu and VAM....that same head made 436rwhp on 22psi with all stock internals. your call...anyway there are 2 people on turboford(even more im sure)...that are in the 12's with a bone stock 2.3L T one has a holset hy-35 turbo upgrade the other uses juice....of course they both are chipped.

 

[lxstang23]

I have a 93 LX 2.3L, it is pretty tired and has about 95k miles on it. I am thinking about a rebuild for it including new pistons to go forged and prepare it for a turbo later.

So, I am wondering what it takes to get the Rev limit to 6-7k. Right now it is like 4500 before it hits a wall. Is this just a cam and spring change or????

Also, I have heard that the 2.5L crank is stronger than the 2.3 ones, any one else know if this is true?

If so, what rods and pistons can I run? I know Esslinger has their stroker kits, but it seems I can probably piece something together on ebay for much less. I know Chevy 5.7 rods work with some combos.... As for pistons, the only forged units I know of for the 2.3 are either stock turbos, or Wisecos, any others?

Also, I have the (unloved) dual plug head, and was thinking about converting to an older head that flows better, and doing a port job on it as well as a good set of oversized valves. Any thoughts?

I'm not looking to make a 2.7, 2.8 or anything that big, unless it is all in the rods and crank. If the block already needs boring, then that's fine.

Also, I am thinking individual throttle body injection, Anyone run this on a 2.3 before? I can get my hands on a set for a little more than a rotated upper intake, so money is not the issue with that.

Finally I am going to need to swap to a T-5. Anyone know if the clutch from a 5.0 will work with it? If so I already have the clutch, if not I'll have to sell what I have to get one for the 2.3L. I know the trans side is the same for T-5s but the bellhousigs are quite different as well as the flywheels.

As some of you may remember, I was talking about either a turbo swap or a 351 swap. Well, I have decided to get a 87-93 LX V8 and use that for transportation while I rebuild the 2.3L. Once I'm done with it, then I'll look at the 351 Swap for the other car.

yo...with the turbo in all if u find one yet me i kno.. i have a 93 2.3L also..i go the air filter k/n n flowmster 40 series muffler. im in the process of gittin rims, header, and gittin headwork. I recently started working at a place that does headwork on vehicles. It a great job.. probolle in a few ill do my headwork.i should run hopefully with the 5.0 i still want a turbo..but cant find one rite now.. let me kno if u can help me out w/ my stang pz

 

[StangCollecter]

im using diamond since mine got damaged....other than that im keeping my stock rods...i have seen them run 400+ hp all day long with no problems...also chevy 5.7" rods will work but you need shorter pistons to compensate for your longer rod....all that does is keep the piston at TDC for longer. it doesnt increase your bore size or anything like that. so unless you looking to replace the whole rotating assembly i would leave it all alone(your not gonna break the crank). Dont even bore it...95k is nothing...do a hone/cross hatch on it and get some rings from total seal...and arp bolts and studs from summit and a felpro 1035 HG/clevite 77 bearings and call it good.My esslinger cam is from 3-7.5k i upgraded the springs and had a set of big valves and a major port job done on my head(of course you need a chip to overrun the rev limiter in my case i have a WMS standalone)you also need a svo/tc Ecu and VAM....that same head made 436rwhp on 22psi with all stock internals. your call...anyway there are 2 people on turboford(even more im sure)...that are in the 12's with a bone stock 2.3L T one has a holset hy-35 turbo upgrade the other uses juice....of course they both are chipped.

Thanks for the tips, This route will just put me on the road that much faster and that's what I'm really lookin for.

I have heard that the rods for all were the same, then I heard rods for the turbo versions were different.

Cranks I knew were the same (changed at 84 or so though) but with the higher revs I wanted, was not sure If I should go for the stronger 2.5L....

12s would be great considering the performance of this thing now,

0-60..... eventually
1/4 mile....... a while later
top speed....... probably not.

I would just hope for decent mileage and mid 13s or so. I do want a rev happy engine though, and having a 5-speed with a high reving engine will be sweet.

 

[StangCollecter]

yo...with the turbo in all if u find one yet me i kno.. i have a 93 2.3L also..i go the air filter k/n n flowmster 40 series muffler. im in the process of gittin rims, header, and gittin headwork. I recently started working at a place that does headwork on vehicles. It a great job.. probolle in a few ill do my headwork.i should run hopefully with the 5.0 i still want a turbo..but cant find one rite now.. let me kno if u can help me out w/ my stang pz

yo dogg, u talk lyk datt in reel liff yo?

 

[88stangmangt]

I would just hope for decent mileage and mid 13s or so. I do want a rev happy engine though, and having a 5-speed with a high reving engine will be sweet.

high rpms is what kills a motor plus why rev past the peak of your motor??? for example if you peak at 6200rpms. reving any higher is just gonna put uneeded stress on you motor with a turbo that falling off in boost and producing more heat.Even though my cam is to 7k i wont be reving that high....

 

[Stinger]

and gittin headwork. I recently started working at a place that does headwork on vehicles. It a great job.. probolle in a few ill do my headwork.i should run hopefully with the 5.0

A 2.3 with some headwork and the other mods you mentioned won't even get close to running with even a bone stock 5.0...just absolutely won't happen.


You might want to think about starting your own thread or doing some searching at some point. Finding a turbo for a 2.3 isn't rocket science, magical, or rare...there are a million of them out there. Oh, and how about typing out full words and sentences. Typing like a fool won't get you any respect on a "tech" forum.

 

[StangCollecter]

A 2.3 with some headwork and the other mods you mentioned won't even get close to running with even a bone stock 5.0...just absolutely won't happen.


You might want to think about starting your own thread or doing some searching at some point. Finding a turbo for a 2.3 isn't rocket science, magical, or rare...there are a million of them out there. Oh, and how about typing out full words and sentences. Typing like a fool won't get you any respect on a "tech" forum.

Jeez, why don't you ask him to think as well, I mean come on 'yo'.

I know my motor as is will not make 5.0 power as is with a turbo, unles I cranked up boost way past boom level.

I have learned that I will need to change at least my pistons and maybe rods and get a better head, get it ported and get some bigger valves, all told I'd be damn lucky if I made 160 hp. Adding to that the individual throttle bodies and the cams, 175 would not be an underestimate. Hopefully then I'll be able to boost it at only 15 lbs and get it to 350.

88stangmangt Revs don't kill an engine, reving past what they were built for does, but that's why I want to build it for higher revs. I think reak power in a 4 cyl should only be 4500 if it's a diesel.

88 hp and 4500 rpms out of 2.3L, sure it's a pretty stout engine foundation but it is only at about 1/4 of it's true potential.

 

[88stangmangt]

high rpms is what kills a motor ....

Like i stated above HIGH rpms being 6k+

 

[StangCollecter]

Like i stated above HIGH rpms being 6k+

Not exactly sure what you are trying to say.
They have cam kits that make 2.3s make power up to 6-7k. Double springs, Ti retainers, etc. This combined with a balanced rotating assembly should be fine for a 6-7k redline.

 

[88stangmangt]

Not exactly sure what you are trying to say.
They have cam kits that make 2.3s make power up to 6-7k. Double springs, Ti retainers, etc. This combined with a balanced rotating assembly should be fine for a 6-7k redline.

Dont forget about your arp studs/bolts for strength and also a chip of some sort or a top end cam is not gonna do you any good.

 

[StangCollecter]

Dont forget about your arp studs/bolts for strength and also a chip of some sort or a top end cam is not gonna do you any good.

lol, yeah the factory rev limiter would make quick work of that.