Running rich after cold air intake replacement

[Ryu]

Yesterday I installed a BBK-1556 cold air intake , a BBK-1517 throttlebody, and a BBK-8002 MAF in my 93 mustang LX Right after I completed the install I started it up and now it’s running so rich that I could set the air on fire if I lit a match from the exhaust. After some quick searching on that “help me create a surging idle checklist” thread I saw that having any conical air intakes that are in engine bay like the one that I just got will cause “all kinds of problems” so is that thread really telling me that I just wasted my time and money and I can’t have that conical filter even though the site (LMR.com) that I got it from advertised it as something that would work? If that’s not the case and I just did something wrong, I am having some trouble understanding how to “clock” the MAF If I could get some clarification on that that would be great, I also tried making sure the tps was under 1 volt while key on engine off but my DVM was acting kinda weird so I’m not entirely sure about that whole thing

 

[FortySix&2]

The consensus nowadays is the "cold air intakes" are more harm then good. I removed mine a long time ago.

Do you still have the factory airbox? The factory airbox sucks air from the fender instead of the hot engine compartment. I would reinstall the factory airbox with a decent filter. Don't put the air silencer on though. Sadly, that cutting your loses on the BBK kit.

 

[Ryu]

The consensus nowadays is the "cold air intakes" are more harm then good. I removed mine a long time ago.

Do you still have the factory airbox? The factory airbox sucks air from the fender instead of the hot engine compartment. I would reinstall the factory airbox with a decent filter. Don't put the air silencer on though. Sadly, that cutting your loses on the BBK kit.

Yea I got everything still, so the only thing I’m seeing that I can keep on is the throttlebody cause with the way this new MAF I have is, it won’t fit with the stock air filter

 

[FortySix&2]

Some one who is more experienced with air and fuel tweaking needs to speak up but may I ask why you changed the MAF sensor from factory? It looks like the engine is stock. Any larger MAF sensor or throttle body is going to run into the smaller hole in the EGR plate/factory intake.

 

[Ryu]

I didn’t intentionally mean to get a MAF sensor that is or would be different from stock I just wanted one that is new because of a whole Nother problem I’ve been having but that’s a whole Nother story I kind of figured if I changed these pieces that I thought the problem was originating from that my original problem would go away I didn’t think that I’d get a whole Nother problem with this white smoke billowing from my exhaust with puddles of gas on the ground at my exhaust…….



If you’re interested basically I followed that surging idle checklist at one point years ago to no avail to the problem but basically my car dies when it’s really hot only in the summer I could be driving 75 miles an hour down the interstate and it’ll just die on me sometimes and only sometimes or sometimes it’ll die on me when I come to a stoplight, And other times I could be driving 100 miles distance at 75 miles an hour cruising on the interstate not stopping at all in 100° weather and nothing happened and sometimes I’ll come to a stop light and nothing will happen again everything will be OK. It’s been the bane of my existence since I’ve had this car and I guess that comes to why I’ve been changing the MAF and the throttlebody and got this cold air intake because recently after three years of it not dying on me it died again in the same manner it did all those years ago, I should mention that when it does die if I wait about 30 minutes to 45 minutes just letting it sitI’ll be able to start it back up and drive until I get home, that’s why I got the throttlebody and I figured since I’m changing the throttlebody I might as well change the MAF and when I saw this cold air intake I thought that looked really cool so I decided to get that cold air intake come to find out that these types of cold air intakes are apparently bad

 

[General karthief]

Change everything back to the way it was, that is not a 'cold air' intake setup,
This will be a tough one because you will have to diagnose the problem when it shuts off, I would get a quality TFI unit and when it shuts down change it. There are a few things that can cause this situation.

 

[Ryu]

Had a friend come by while I was removing everything to put the original parts back on and he looked in the air intake manifold to find out that there was a massive coolant leak into the air intake manifold so that's what the billowing clouds of smoke were. I come to find out that the gasket that came with the throttle body was bad and didn't create a seal at all so how **** am I?

Edit: talked to another friend who worked for ford once as a mechanic and he said that all I need to do is drain the oil and replace it, get a full tank of gas put seafoam in the tank for fuel injector cleaner. and put brake cleaner/ throttle body cleaner in the air intake manifold to evaporate the existing coolant and i should be good to go, thoughts?

 

[Mustang5L5]

Replace the gasket, refill the coolant, change the oil.

I don’t think you need to do the other stuff.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

Yesterday I installed a BBK-1556 cold air intake , a BBK-1517 throttlebody, and a BBK-8002 MAF in my 93 mustang LX Right after I completed the install I started it up and now it’s running so rich that I could set the air on fire if I lit a match from the exhaust. After some quick searching on that “help me create a surging idle checklist” thread I saw that having any conical air intakes that are in engine bay like the one that I just got will cause “all kinds of problems” so is that thread really telling me that I just wasted my time and money and I can’t have that conical filter even though the site (LMR.com) that I got it from advertised it as something that would work? If that’s not the case and I just did something wrong, I am having some trouble understanding how to “clock” the MAF If I could get some clarification on that that would be great, I also tried making sure the tps was under 1 volt while key on engine off but my DVM was acting kinda weird so I’m not entirely sure about that whole thing

That’s a hot air intake. The cold air one puts the filter in the fender with a plate on the inner fender well.

 

[Ryu]

That’s a hot air intake. The cold air one puts the filter in the fender with a plate on the inner fender well.

You know your right but they have it listed on LMR.com as a cold air intake. If I had called it a hot air intake someone else might’ve come around and said “it’s listed as a cold air intake” and I would’ve been wrong either way so let’s just call it an aftermarket air intake for arguments sake but all in all calling the air intake by its proper type name doesn’t help me in the slightest with either problem I’m facing right now.

 

[Ryu]

Some one who is more experienced with air and fuel tweaking needs to speak up but may I ask why you changed the MAF sensor from factory? It looks like the engine is stock. Any larger MAF sensor or throttle body is going to run into the smaller hole in the EGR plate/factory intake.

I did make sure that the stock fuel injectors Would work with the throttlebody and MAF that I got which through some short research seem to be the only caveat to getting an aftermarket throttlebody and MAF at the time.

 

[Mustang5L5]

Here’s a video LMR did where they took out a BBK cold air intakes and put a stock airbox back on and gained 3 HP


View: https://youtu.be/sQ84mUR75Tk

 

[7991LXnSHO]

You know your right but they have it listed on LMR.com as a cold air intake. If I had called it a hot air intake someone else might’ve come around and said “it’s listed as a cold air intake” and I would’ve been wrong either way so let’s just call it an aftermarket air intake for arguments sake but all in all calling the air intake by its proper type name doesn’t help me in the slightest with either problem I’m facing right now.

I was half being a smart Alec, and mostly making fun of how the company markets it. I like how my CAI looks. I did not like when a jerk in a truck tried to drown my car in a hard rain. (The filter in the fender and the whole engine compartment got splashed. I’m not sure even the stock filter box would have liked that.)
The only suggestions I have are to check the MAF’s connector and if the new filter was over oiled and the MAF sensor needs the oil cleaned off.

 

[7991LXnSHO]

I was half being a smart Alec, and mostly making fun of how the company markets it. I like how my CAI looks. I did not like when a jerk in a truck tried to drown my car in a hard rain. (The filter in the fender and the whole engine compartment got splashed. I’m not sure even the stock filter box would have liked that.)
The only suggestions I have are to check the MAF’s connector and if the new filter was over oiled and the MAF sensor needs the oil cleaned off.

And, if you have a digital multimeter, I think checking the output of the MAF is on the surging idle checklist.
It would also be wise to check for codes to see if the computer knows what else got set off in the process of putting the new air intake on.

 

[Ryu]

Here’s a video LMR did where they took out a BBK cold air intakes and put a stock airbox back on and gained 3 HP


View: https://youtu.be/sQ84mUR75Tk

This just makes me sad

 

[ThinBlue502]

I didn’t intentionally mean to get a MAF sensor that is or would be different from stock I just wanted one that is new because of a whole Nother problem I’ve been having but that’s a whole Nother story I kind of figured if I changed these pieces that I thought the problem was originating from that my original problem would go away I didn’t think that I’d get a whole Nother problem with this white smoke billowing from my exhaust with puddles of gas on the ground at my exhaust…….



If you’re interested basically I followed that surging idle checklist at one point years ago to no avail to the problem but basically my car dies when it’s really hot only in the summer I could be driving 75 miles an hour down the interstate and it’ll just die on me sometimes and only sometimes or sometimes it’ll die on me when I come to a stoplight, And other times I could be driving 100 miles distance at 75 miles an hour cruising on the interstate not stopping at all in 100° weather and nothing happened and sometimes I’ll come to a stop light and nothing will happen again everything will be OK. It’s been the bane of my existence since I’ve had this car and I guess that comes to why I’ve been changing the MAF and the throttlebody and got this cold air intake because recently after three years of it not dying on me it died again in the same manner it did all those years ago, I should mention that when it does die if I wait about 30 minutes to 45 minutes just letting it sitI’ll be able to start it back up and drive until I get home, that’s why I got the throttlebody and I figured since I’m changing the throttlebody I might as well change the MAF and when I saw this cold air intake I thought that looked really cool so I decided to get that cold air intake come to find out that these types of cold air intakes are apparently bad

TFI module homie. Get yourself a new Motorcraft TFI and put it on a relocation kit, call it a day.

 

[Ryu]

TFI module homie. Get yourself a new Motorcraft TFI and put it on a relocation kit, call it a day.

That’s what this is here I’ve tried that already :/ unless TFI’s go bad after a couple of years.?

 

[90sickfox]

Smh....the coolant to the throttle body runs through the two rubber hoses that run up to it. One from the coolant pipe and one from the back right side of the lower intake. Take a piece of hose and run it straight from the nipple on the pipe to the nipple on intake. That'll keep coolant from going through the intake.

Ok...now the easy part. Advance and AZ sell rolls of gasket material by where the tubes of gasket sealer are. Get the tan one. Trace the throttle body and the center hole on the gasket material and cut it out with a razor blade.

The factory intake has a passage for the EGR valve, then the heat spacer ( coolant runs through it ), and then the TB. You can use a solid gasket without all the other shapes cut out of them. When you hook the hoses back up coolant will stay in the center spacer like it's supposed to. That spacer is really just to keep the throttle blade from icing up in cold weather. You could do without the spacer or hooking it up but you'll still need gaskets.

The cutting off thing is usually caused by the TFI or the coil. The driving three years with no issue is the weird part. Like other members stated. You'd have to diag that as soon as it cut off. Checking for spark...and injector pulse.

Generally, there wouldn't be a reason to change the oil or clean the injectors from coolant getting in the intake. If enough got in there to mess up the oil then it would've hydrolocked and your engine would be toast.

 

[Dumb]

Smh....the coolant to the throttle body runs through the two rubber hoses that run up to it. One from the coolant pipe and one from the back right side of the lower intake. Take a piece of hose and run it straight from the nipple on the pipe to the nipple on intake. That'll keep coolant from going through the intake.

Ok...now the easy part. Advance and AZ sell rolls of gasket material by where the tubes of gasket sealer are. Get the tan one. Trace the throttle body and the center hole on the gasket material and cut it out with a razor blade.

The factory intake has a passage for the EGR valve, then the heat spacer ( coolant runs through it ), and then the TB. You can use a solid gasket without all the other shapes cut out of them. When you hook the hoses back up coolant will stay in the center spacer like it's supposed to. That spacer is really just to keep the throttle blade from icing up in cold weather. You could do without the spacer or hooking it up but you'll still need gaskets.

The cutting off thing is usually caused by the TFI or the coil. The driving three years with no issue is the weird part. Like other members stated. You'd have to diag that as soon as it cut off. Checking for spark...and injector pulse.

Generally, there wouldn't be a reason to change the oil or clean the injectors from coolant getting in the intake. If enough got in there to mess up the oil then it would've hydrolocked and your engine would be toast.

Luckily I was able to put all the original stuff back on and get it started today and run it around so no hydro lock here With no more coolant leaking into the upper intake manifold and no more billowing white clouds of smoke coming out of the exhaust (is it possible that it could still hydrolock later though, or Am I in the clear in that respect?) I also drained the oil in there was some coolant in the oil pan so I switched all the oil out as best as I could and put new oil in and put a new Oil filter on I also topped off the coolant because there was a lot missing.

Next I plan on filling my gas tank up and putting seafoam in it and in the next couple hundred miles I plan on changing my oil again maybe take it to Jiffy Lube to do a fluid flush. And maybe before or after I change my oil again, but definitely after I do not see any more smoke coming out of the exhaust cause there is just a little bit of smoke coming out still because I don’t want to waste my money I’ll go ahead and put that “cold air intake” and other parts I bought on.

Concerning the “bane of my existence“ issue I’ve been having should I just make a whole new thread about that or discuss it more here?

 

[90sickfox]

You should probably start a new thread...or change your thread title to " bane of my existence ".

I'm surprised coolant made it to the oil. Glad it's not sucking coolant anymore.