Serious Safety Question!

Sleepy1

Founding Member
Jun 10, 2002
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Chicago, IL
Okay guys, I need your help. I want everyone's opinion/comments on roll bars. Who's got them, who had any fitment issues, prices, etc. In the last week both my sister and the young girl across the street from me have been T-boned going through an intersection. The way the cars looked afterwards has made me nervous, and I think that our lives are worth the price of some safety equipment. Everyone always talks about going faster, but how about just one thread about being safer. Thanks for everyone's input.
Mike
 
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The only concern that I would have with a roll bar on the street is heaven forbid, if you yourself got t-boned, and did have a bar, wouldnt your head smack it and knock you out or injure you more? Ive also thought about the roll bar thing but that is something someone else mentioned one time. Just a thought, hope everyone was ok (your sis and the neighbor)Anyone else have input?
Matt
 
Thankfully, both girls were hit on the passenger side. My sister was just shaken up (thank God), but the other girl has broken ribs, bruising, and cuts. The girl across the street did end up rolling the car over. The SUV hit her so hard that it flipped the car when it hit the curb. I'm not too worried about hitting my head because there is padding that you can put over the bars.
 
But, doesn't the 6 point bar have one that goes diagonally across your mid-section. That should be enough for the street. I don't want to go overboard, just more protection than the weak cross brace in the factory door itself.
 
I can't believe no one in this place has a roll cage in their car! Can someone please give some info on fit/finish for different brands. I tried the search button before I even posted this and none of my questions were answered.
 
I have a Kenny Brown 6 point bolt in. My car is heavily used daily, an autocross whore, and used for the few OT events I can afford. I've done a lot to the suspension on my car and can honestly say that every bit helps but the one thing that was the most seat of the pants feel good was the cage. It's a bitch to put in but once you get all the points of the car tied together the thing sticks, I mean STICKS! Check my sign for the list of parts installed. Go w/ KB's cage, it's costly but worth it. Also, drive to Indy and pick it up, the shipping will kill ya! ;) I've got some pics if you'd like to see em let me know.
Keep the shiney side up.

on the edit: KB's cage is NOT approved by the NHRA. Obviously this only matters if you're faster than 12 seconds. {I think it's 12 seconds but don't quote me, I don't do the 1320 unless there's 2 corners in there somewhere.}
 
Sleepy1 said:
Thanks acidpete. Did you get the one that has the lowered door bars for easy entrance/exit of the car? What did it cost for the install if you didn't do it yourself?
The one I have doesn't hinder exit or entrance at all. The bars come down the side of the seat and then are just under the sides of the bottom of the seat. I did the install, it's a bitch. But very rewarding. The hardest part will be drilling the holes necessary in the rear and actually putting the hoop in. Don't try it with out taking the dome light out and follow the directions! They're pretty good. Plus if you get stuck you can call KB and should be able to talk to a tech.
 

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Practically none. Matter of fact w/ my fat ass in the seat the seat bottom actually sits on the bar. However the vertical bar has enough clearance to reach your hand in and pull the seat up, adjust lumbar, etc etc. If you get a chance to go to Indy take it and stop by KB's shop. They'll show you a car that has the cage in it. If you get the cage you should be ready for a 2 day install. Get some friends that know how to turn a wrench! Ask lots of questions, to me specifically if you like. Be ready to pull your entire interior out. Adding sound deadener at this time is a good idea. It doesn't weigh that much and really helps. If you have any wires that you'd like to run from the front to the back, again a good time to do so. Basically be prepared. The longest and biggest pain in the ass is getting the interior in and out. Oh yeah, don't be afraid of drilling a whole in your rear interior plastic. The template they have works perfectly, get a hole saw and a good drill. You'll need both.
I'm outta here. Merry Christmas and good luck!
{On the edit: A few crappy pics of the side of my car. I'll try and get more if you need em. Oh yeah, if you do get a cage from KB ask for Rich and tell him you're an SVTOA member, you'll get just a bit more of a discount.}

cageoutside.jpg

cageoutsidefar.jpg

cageside.jpg
 
A roll bar won't really help you very greatly in side impacts because the door and such is not reinforced. Now if you had a full road-race cage then you'd be alot safer.

To avoid hitting your head on the bare metal you use roll-bar padding that you tie to the bars in all of the areas where your head could make contact with them. A full cage would really help... But in order to take full advantage of that you'd probably want to get a 5-point harness, racing-designed seats that provide lots of lateral support, especially around your ribs and head. You'd want a helmet too... a full-faced helmet... open face isn't really that safe. You'd probably want a HANS device too... (Head And Neck Support). It's a collar you wear that you tether to your helmet and it prevents your head from snapping foward. Basically it keeps your spine aligned so you don't snap your neck in a frontal impact. Lexan windows would also be good as they don't shatter.

You'd be pretty damn safe then, I'd say.
 
Thanks for the pics cjones and info mustangsteve. But that might be just a little overboard for me. I think the MM with the swing out doors is the way to go. The KB one looks nice and is probably easier to get in and out of, but it is not NHRA approved.