Should I be able to hit 13's?

[cornholio]

If everything is set right (timing/jetting) and you get any sort of traction, you should get in the 13's by accident.

Before I ripped my car apart again, my 66 Coupe with a similar .30 over 289, 650 dbl pumper, a larger cam, the stock c-4 & conv., TFS heads, and all the other "bolt on's" with 411's ran a best of 13.09 and consistent 13.20's without a problem.

Just a suggestion. If you are ever in the motor again, I found that that motor loves and puts down the best #'s with the biggest came that applies to your setup that you can possibly stick in there.

Also, if your buddy can't drive, and he has a 5 speed, this is a mute argument because he will most likely go up in smoke at the tree. Good Luck.

 

[TheEvII]

That cam and intake would not respond well to more gear IMO.
It will rev out of it's optimum rpm range too quickly and compound traction issues.
If a larger cam or single plane intake were introduced, then more gear would be in order.
The same thing hold true for a stall converter. You are supposed to use a stall 500 to 1000 rpm below the start of useable torque... So if his cam and intake start at 1500 rpm, which is probably about right, then you don't need much if any converter. That would just remove useable rpm from the pavement and shorten the power curve... same effect as steep gears.
Dave

Look. What compression ratio are you running? I can put this setup in my desktop dyno. I ran it with 9.5/1 and your torque really starts to come in at at 2500-3000 rpm. (320) the torque peak is 365 at 4000. Horsepower peaks at 6000 (375). Those are high rpm numbers. I would definately go with a 2500 stall and a little more gear. I certainly wouldn't go up in cam.

 

[Edbert]

With my current combo, well tuned, once I get the 9" in with the 3.50 gears (and trak-loc)?

Yes.

 

[Great68]

Look. What compression ratio are you running? I can put this setup in my desktop dyno. I ran it with 9.5/1 and your torque really starts to come in at at 2500-3000 rpm. (320) the torque peak is 365 at 4000. Horsepower peaks at 6000 (375). Those are high rpm numbers. I would definately go with a 2500 stall and a little more gear. I certainly wouldn't go up in cam.

Compression is around 9.2-9.5

 

[ratio411]

You're right...
For some reason I had it in my head that the specs were around 214 @ .050".
The cam is bigger than some of us posting were thinking.
I ran a similar cam with 4.11s and single plane intake and it loved it.
I didn't run a stall though. I still disagree on this point.
With a single plane, similar specs, and gears... traction was scarce. A stall will make it worse. Again, with torque starting at 2500, you still only need stock stall. My cam started a little sooner, even with a single plane and double pumper.
Dave

 

[hobbyhorse]

If you can make use of traction and get out of the hole good. I don't think you will have any trouble putting some car lengths on him. If he is a "sorry "driver the 4.11 gears will make it worse for him. More cam would difinitely wake it up but you must change a few more things to really enjoy it. The Exteme series cams seem to build a little more cylinder pressure so that will help a little with the lower compression.

 

[87gn2]

ratio411:

I have a stock stall and a cam not much bigger than that and I have no traction at all. I was going to post this earlier but his tires aren't bad, and he's planning on a trac-loc/posi/whatever (unlike me) so I don't think traction will be as bad as it is for me.

 

[calpolymustang]

Looks to me like you have a similar combo as my engine, though you will have a slightly higher mid range and less bottom end as mine.
I ran about as fast as his, and recomend you get some slicks if you really want to drop into 13s. Even though you have a heavier car, running the right size slicks, if they can fit, will help you launch more than anything. I would get this before the stall since the stall will make traction worse, though I think you need both. Go for a 2800-3000 range and it will end up as a 2500-2800 since you have less torque than many of the engine this converter will be designed for. Also, having the converter will help you if you roll up next to him along the road at 20mph then gun it. Having the right jets and tuning will also make a large difference.
There are shops that charge 70/hour for a dyno tune, maybe there are shops near you. If it only takes an hour, 70 is less than what that air gap cost, and it might make a bigger improvement

 

[Great68]

Even though you have a heavier car

I dunno about that, I weighed my car last time at the dragstrip at 2945lbs without me in it and with 1/3 tank of gas. This was before the aluminum heads and manifold. His car weighs 3100 without him. (91 5.0 Hatchback)

 

[calpolymustang]

i meant heavier than mine, a 66 fastback, but that weight seems reall close to mine. youre still lighter than him, i think you can get it in 13s