solid 2 hydrolic questions????

[niks4082fst4u]

i went from a efi 302 to a 408 stroker,the problem is i went ahead a bought heads set up for a solid roller set up,after coming to my senses im going to keep this motor a hydrolic set up,cause i like to drive my car on the street more than just one day,my question is, is it IMPOSSIBLE not to machine a spyder into the block for the lifters,is there anyway around it,i keep hearing something about a retro fit lifter,cant i just buy some linked roller lifters and not have to worry about the spyder and or am i gonna have to machine the two screws into the block and there's NO way of getting around it??????

 

[hllon4whls]

i went from a efi 302 to a 408 stroker,the problem is i went ahead a bought heads set up for a solid roller set up,after coming to my senses im going to keep this motor a hydrolic set up,cause i like to drive my car on the street more than just one day,my question is, is it IMPOSSIBLE not to machine a spyder into the block for the lifters,is there anyway around it,i keep hearing something about a retro fit lifter,cant i just buy some linked roller lifters and not have to worry about the spyder and or am i gonna have to machine the two screws into the block and there's NO way of getting around it??????

The main problem that you are going to have is that the valve springs that came with the heads are going to be too stiff and collapse the hydraulic lifter. The springs need to be matched to the cam and lifters (coil bind and seat pressure).

There are retrofit roller cam kits out there. Not sure if they have linked rollers or not. Look on comp cams web site to see what they have.

A solid roller is not the end of a street car. Every 10k miles (after they are broken in) or so you need to adjust the valve lash. Not a big deal to me.

But I am sick like that.

Any yes, my race car still has a hydraulic cam in it. That and a converter is what holds me back!

 

[gxnos]

i would say go with a solid flat tappett. youll end up spending so much money getting the retro fit hydraulic roller and the roller bearings on the solid roller lifters can go at any time. for ultimate performance and driveability id say solid flat tappet is the best.

 

[niks4082fst4u]

hey guys,thanks for the replies.i know that i have to change the springs,what i wanted to know is am i gonna have to machine a spyder into the 351 block?or is there a way around it?drivability is the reason im going to hydro,i know ill be giving up the rpm's but i like driving my car way to much.

 

[niks4082fst4u]

another thing? i want to know what you guys thank this will run,its a 408 set up for 10.5.1 compression,it has victor jr's,full m.s.d ignition,750dp holley,373's,the tranny is a c4 with a 3800 stall,long tubes,holley 140 pump with reg,WHAT do you think this is capable of runnin with a hydrolic set up with a 600 lift,dont know what duration it is.let me know what you think??

 

[gxnos]

another thing? i want to know what you guys thank this will run,its a 408 set up for 10.5.1 compression,it has victor jr's,full m.s.d ignition,750dp holley,373's,the tranny is a c4 with a 3800 stall,long tubes,holley 140 pump with reg,WHAT do you think this is capable of runnin with a hydrolic set up with a 600 lift,dont know what duration it is.let me know what you think??

first of all, spell hydrualic right. i can guarantee your car, if running correctly, will be easy in the 10s.

 

[dirtracer]

I also say keep it solid. Nothing wrong with driving solids on the street. Don't be afraid. You should get a lot of good miles out of it if you spring pressure isn't crazy. If you have a situation where you HAVE to adjust the rockers all of the time, there is something wrong. Ford even put solids in some factory cars and trucks.

I run a solid flat and solid roller in 2 street cars and I only adjust them twice a year. They are never out of adjustment. It's really just a maintainance check. The roller doesn't get a lot of miles. It's more of a race motor, so when it's running, it's running hard. No problems.

As for the question on the spider, I think you will HAVE to install it. I'm not aware of any company which makes non-dogbone hydralic lifers. The only lifters with link bars are the solids.

 

[niks4082fst4u]

thanks for your replies,i want to go solid real bad,but i think im gonna go hydraulic,my wifes gonna drive this car sometimes and just for drivability issues im gonna go that route,10's with a hydraulic cam,i'll deal with it.thanks guys for input.

 

[84blkstang]

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?part=CRN-44518-16
That is the linked lifters he is talking about. Not trying to steal the thread will these work in an older block w/o maching for spyders?

 

[stangonline]

Ok, if you have a newer roller ready late model block, your good, but it doesnt sound like it.

What you might want to look at is called a small base circle cam/roller lifter combo. the base circle of the cam is much smaller than the standard setup, allowing the use of naturally longer roller lifters in a non-roller block. The reason for this is that the non-roller blocks lifter bores are not as deep and a normal base circle cam will push the taller roller lifters too far out of the block. These usually come in kits with matched springs - I think comp cams has them.

Hope that helps
Jeff
www.stangonline.com

Oh yeah, I found it funny that the guy who corrected your spelling went on to misspell it in his correction "hydrualic", lol.

 

[xLr8r_sfr]

Go with the Crane hydraulic roller lifters NOT mechanical rollers, don't be fooled by the picture, these are the vertical link bar type that drop in and require NO block machining. Your wallet may hate you for a while but you and your wife will love the reliable maintenance free design of a hydraulic roller. As far as giving up RPMs, Anderson Ford Motorsport has hydraulic roller cams with 8200 redline with much less valvetrain beakage than a solid roller.

Good luck and have fun with your ride,
Steve