I was just wanting to know if any of you are using Solid Motor Mounts on the street or have in the past? What are your thoughts and feelings on them? I just recently installed a set of them due to me needing new mounts and having gotten the Solids for next to nothing. They feel fine except for sometimes I get a little bit of Vibration while idling at a stop light. But thats it.
Solid Motor Mounts info
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88stangmangt
Active Member
im useing them with my future set-up because i am gonna run a blower brace to keep from throwing belts but i would run them either way.
TwinTurbo93
Founding Member
I didn't really notice them until I got a larger cam, then there was quite a bit of vibration in the car, it also seems like the car is smoother over bumps (like speed bumps) without the solids in the car. The only reason I changed em was because they made my turbo hit my hood on the passenger side, otherwise no problems 
I put all my parts in my signiture on not too long ago and just need to tune my car now. I figure once I get it tuned it will idle a little more smoother and it should feel better from there. I also put on new MSD plug wires, Motorcraft Plugs, new Cap and Rotor, and MSD Balster Coil about 5 days ago. Oh and I replaced my stock plastic tubing from the MAF to the TB with a C&L tube. So I just now need to adjust my timing and idle! So like I said previosuly, I can only tell when my idle fluctuates a little bit and it gets down to like 900 rpm. Because it usally idles at like 1000-1100 now after I installed intake and so on.
My question would be, why would the factory go with a rubber mount and not solids if the solids were better? Could vibration be the only reason? I guess if creature comforts like less vibration and less torqing on the car are the reasons to put them in, the only thing i could see happening is stress rust near your hatch if you dont have some cassis bracing underneath. Being that they're unibody cars, i could see solid mounts causing more flex.
85_SS_302_Coupe said:
A car from the factory comes for comfort and ride issues, there are many many performance modifications that we do that the factory has never done. Suspnesion is the biggest one. They are built for a comfortable ride to tow passengers. Not to handle 500++ hp and hook at the track.
I tuned my car by setting my timing to 12 deg and taking care of my idle. I have the solid engine mounts and poly tranny mount. I can defintaley tell the difference. When I shift hard and get on the car it is definately more solid. I am happy that I have subframes! I just need to see whats up with my car going down the highway. When I 1st changed my driveshaft toan aluminum one I could really tell the difference on the highway. Now I feel vibration. I wonder if I need to change anything out?
PrimerdFury
New Member
ASP solids here, no complaints. They are a bent plate style rather than fully boxed, which allows some flex and vibration damping.
Poly tranny mount.
Solids under the tranny and motor will not allow flex... this puts added stress on the bellhousing, and, 'could' crack it. (ie: pulling into a driveway, gas station etc.)
Poly tranny mount.
Solids under the tranny and motor will not allow flex... this puts added stress on the bellhousing, and, 'could' crack it. (ie: pulling into a driveway, gas station etc.)
89MustangGX
I have nothing productive to add!
cleanLX said:
I don't see how having some solids and some poly would be good -- the way I think about it, you would want either all solids or all flexing. With the engine and tranny directly connected together, I don't want part of it flexing and part of it solid.
As for the ASP's -- I don't see a point to a solid mount that allows some flex???
I have the Maximum Motorsports to install (engine and tranny) and they are very nice looking -- also inexpensive compared to others.
89MustangGX said:
The chassis flexes.
The motor and tranny are linked solidly.
If the tranny is mounted solid to the cross member, and the motor is mounted solid to the K-member-thing... pull into a drive way...
The front end of the car twists while the center section does not. Now you have a tranny trying to stay in one place while the motor is twisting.
Since the motor and tranny are linked solidly together(as you pointed out) now the flex-stress is being absorbed by the bellhousing(since neither the motor mounts or tranny mount have the ability to flex on their solid mounts) Poly/rubber mounts absorb/conform during chassis to flex to allow the motor and tranny to stay linked solidly together... no cracking the bellhousing, or associated issues.
Now... if your car is caged, with thru the floor subframes and you run a SFI bell... it's likely rigid enough structure that this would not matter.
But, in a street driven whimpy subframed situation, I'd let the motor/tranny have at least one 'flexabile' mount to accomodate twisting of the chassis.
In summary,
89MustangGX said:
Exactly, that is why you allow one mount to absorb flex, and keep the tranny/motor relitivly flex-stress free.
As for the ASP's, about the only flex they will accomadate is huge impact loading... ie: bad railway crossings, pot holes etc., And hopefully, they will distort before they tear out. They are not going anywhere otherwise... not at the power I'm making, or will ever make.
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