Sorry to say
- Thread starter bapford
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Silver95Stint
New Member
You can make a yugo the fastest thing on the road for the right money. At least you took the "lost" like man though. What type of Beamer was it?
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
You can't win the 4/6 cylinder battles guys - it ain't worth tryin'. If you beat 'em, all you did with your big honkin' V-8 was outrun a 4 cyl. And if they beat you - well, you know what that's like. You can't win.
Just drive and enjoy your car -- someone will always come along that's faster, better, quicker, handles better, stops quicker, etc. Build what you want and enjoy it -- don't worry about the other guy/gal.
Just drive and enjoy your car -- someone will always come along that's faster, better, quicker, handles better, stops quicker, etc. Build what you want and enjoy it -- don't worry about the other guy/gal.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Sorry daggar - you lose that battle too. Then you've just outrun a 4 cylinder with your BLOWN big honkin' V-8. It's expected - you don't get credit for it. You still lose. It's the bully syndrome. You simply can't win the 4/6 cylinder battles no matter who outruns who - the bigger engine loses the battle.
Michael Yount said:
Ahmen brother.
If the rule was, "The faster the car the smaller the penis", we'd all have our cars up on jack stands!
This grey haired retiree rolled up on me in his late model vette.....chirps the tires at the light and smokes me......I catch him at the next light and yell out, "sorry to hear about your dick". It's a stupid game of ego and dollars.
Quit worrying about the petty ***** and get some jack stands (J/K)
bln92cpe
New Member
Daggar said:Then go out, get a blower, have it tuned, and go back and blow his freakin' doors off.
Thats what I did, works everytime.
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
Not too bad. I'm running very very rich at the moment and not sure what to do about it just yet. I don't think that it's the FMU (although it could be at boost) because I'm running rich even at idle. I had one hell of a time trying to figure out this morning, why the car would cut out when hard onthe accelerator beginning at about 4500 RPM. I "think" I have that problem solved. I'd neglected to install the orifice into the vacume line running to the Vac/boost guage. Once I put it in everything seemed to be fine. Not sure what to do about running so rich yet. I've got the Innovative LM-1 Air/Fuel Ratio Meter in there and did a recording then played it back. At full boost with my foot buried the Air/fuel is off scale high. What I haven't tried yet is just taking the vac line off of the FMU and running it that way for a pull or two now that I think I have the sputtering thing (it felt like a governor) figured out. With the FMU hooked up at full boost the fuel press guage reads like 80 - 85 psi. Even with that though.... it doesn't explain why I'm so rich and still showing Vaccum on the guage.
Edit: I should note however, that I do not have the .070 orifice that the Kenne Bell instructions show between the one way valve (this is the one that's between the boost/vac sides of the blower manifold and the MAP sensor) and the boost side of the manifold. It said to use the stock one but well... there wasn't one. I've a piece of small tubing in there now (it's about .070 as eyeballed with a feeler guage).
Edit: I should note however, that I do not have the .070 orifice that the Kenne Bell instructions show between the one way valve (this is the one that's between the boost/vac sides of the blower manifold and the MAP sensor) and the boost side of the manifold. It said to use the stock one but well... there wasn't one. I've a piece of small tubing in there now (it's about .070 as eyeballed with a feeler guage).
Michael Yount
Mustang Master
_jb_
New Member
onesticker
New Member
Michael Yount said:
Well part of the 'lure' of this kit is it's compatability with speed density. The word is that the restriction caused by Mass Air is worth roughly 30 HP. I installed a new intake temp sensor when I swapped out the intake and think that it *may* have something to do with the rich condition. Mass air is certainly an option but I'd like to ensure that I've got everything (vaccum lines) done correctly first to ensure that it's just not something silly like the rev problem I was having.
I understand the 4/6 arguement, on one hand, it's not a win you write home about, but then again I'm not so stupid as to go out car shopping for a fast car and pick a 4 banger.
I always think "so let me get this straight, you wanted a fast car so you went out and bought a 4 cylinder economy car..... hmmmm, smart choice"
I remember this time this guy was talking about wanting to buy a "hotrod" and he was debating between a LS1 Camaro/TA, and a Civic. He seriously thought that all he would need to do to a civic was bolt on a turbo kit for about $3500 and he would be just as fast as the F-body and still get all the reliability and gas milege. I met a guy that bought a V6 99 Mustang and got it because he paid I think $16 for it and a GT would have been $24, he took some rebate he got and got a Vortec S/C system expecting 300+ to the wheels, well he got spanked be a few GTs and ended blowing the motor.
I always think "so let me get this straight, you wanted a fast car so you went out and bought a 4 cylinder economy car..... hmmmm, smart choice"
I remember this time this guy was talking about wanting to buy a "hotrod" and he was debating between a LS1 Camaro/TA, and a Civic. He seriously thought that all he would need to do to a civic was bolt on a turbo kit for about $3500 and he would be just as fast as the F-body and still get all the reliability and gas milege. I met a guy that bought a V6 99 Mustang and got it because he paid I think $16 for it and a GT would have been $24, he took some rebate he got and got a Vortec S/C system expecting 300+ to the wheels, well he got spanked be a few GTs and ended blowing the motor.
