Spark Plugs Keep Fouling

odsysean

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Dec 12, 2011
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i have an 86 5.0 bone stock other than offroad h pipe and 40s mufflers.
Ive had other problems with surging idle and such and it led to a bad MAP sensor-the diaphragm inside went bad and couldnt hold vacuum like a new MAP. basically i could suck through like a straw. that helped my idle issue drastically. but now ive notice it stuggles and hesitates at higher rpm (2500+) and dogs when driving up a slight incline and misfires on occasion and also when i shut it down when warmed up, i start it back up and it acts like its cold. i pulled it back in the driveway, numbered each plug wire and pulled the plugs out. each and every one of them were a little wet with a gas/oil mixture, and were completely carbon fouled. Also, i noticed my oil pressure is higher than normal, well, the gas is fouling the oil too. its running way too rich, smells like gas. All new injectors, new fuel pressure regulator, new MAP, new ect, new act, new iac, new tps, newer ign. coil, newer plug wires, plugs were new now fouled, cap and rotor were changed, coolant flushed, basically a fresh tuneup to get rid of old electrical parts as they were all original and age wears elec. parts out. does anyone have any idea? also when it really dogs it, it sounds kinda like two hard plastic containers banging one another (hard to explain). local auto parts store "professional" gave advice i already checked and gave me attitude about checking for codes. i dont have an OBD1 scanner nor can i find one cheaper than 200. any suggestions?
 
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Use the search box to find Jrichker's post on how to dump the codes. All you'd need is a test light and a paper clip or something like that.

But the only thing I can think of that will cause something to run so rich that fuel gets in the oil, is the fuel pressure regulator. And I know, you said you have a new one. But new doesn't always mean good. Take off the vacuum line from the regulator to the intake and cap the intake (no one likes vacuum leaks) and then start the car. Gas will squirt out of the regulator IF it's bad. If there's no fuel coming out, then the regulator is good and that can be ruled out.

Did you make sure and install factory size injectors by chance?
 
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Use the search box to find Jrichker's post on how to dump the codes. All you'd need is a test light and a paper clip or something like that.

But the only thing I can think of that will cause something to run so rich that fuel gets in the oil, is the fuel pressure regulator. And I know, you said you have a new one. But new doesn't always mean good. Take off the vacuum line from the regulator to the intake and cap the intake (no one likes vacuum leaks) and then start the car. Gas will squirt out of the regulator IF it's bad. If there's no fuel coming out, then the regulator is good and that can be ruled out.

Did you make sure and install factory size injectors by chance?
what i understand, i purchaced 19lb injectors, which are stock as you probably know. however im not POSITIVE if thats what i got, but it was a parts store i bought them from, so im sure they got the order right. they are bostech remanufactured units so they arent brand new, but i will try the fpr test you told me. all i do it disconnec the fpr and cap that line and try to start it? what should i do if i dont get any gas to come out?
 
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what i understand, i purchaced 19lb injectors, which are stock as you probably know. however im not POSITIVE if thats what i got, but it was a parts store i bought them from, so im sure they got the order right. they are bostech remanufactured units so they arent brand new, but i will try the fpr test you told me. all i do it disconnec the fpr and cap that line and try to start it? what should i do if i dont get any gas to come out?
I'm not familiar with how the stock set up is, but wherever the FPR hooks up to on the intake, cap that intake port off and leave the line unplugged on the regulator. If you don't get gas coming out of the regulators vacuum port while the engine is running, then your regulator is in proper working order.

What color were the injectors you got?
Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg

I found this picture posted by Jrichker, he also has the posts on how to dump the codes. Only reason I posted this one was because I'm too lazy to find the Codes post and because I have this one stored on my computer for quick reference :D
 
I'm not familiar with how the stock set up is, but wherever the FPR hooks up to on the intake, cap that intake port off and leave the line unplugged on the regulator. If you don't get gas coming out of the regulators vacuum port while the engine is running, then your regulator is in proper working order.

What color were the injectors you got?
Ford_Injector_Guide.jpg

I found this picture posted by Jrichker, he also has the posts on how to dump the codes. Only reason I posted this one was because I'm too lazy to find the Codes post and because I have this one stored on my computer for quick reference :D
the old ones i took off were the orange/black ones you show. the remans i bought look the same except its gray, not black. im guessing because its not a ford brand lol. but yeah the old injectors needed either replacing or rebuilding and the rebuild kits i found didnt have the little screen they have in them, the old ones were all torn and clogged. but ill check his posts on dumping codes, i know from what ive seen of his diagram it looks easy but im not sure of what to look for
 
I actually tried finding the posts on here, but the search function on SN really sucks. I've gotten better results by Googling things and then adding "Stangnet" onto the end of the search lol.
 
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Yeah, I'd look at the O2 sensors and the fuel pressure regulator.
The FPR has a diaphram inside that can degrade and start leaking fuel into your engine right through the vacuum line.
A bad O2 can cause richness, but I don't know if it would be so extreme as you describe.

Have you checked your fuel pressure?