Stereo Killing Alternator HELP

I have a Relocated Odyssey Battery (PC2150), 0Ga feed wire. 12" MTX 9500 on a 1501D MTX Amp. Infinity Speakers and 4 Channel Infinity amp for the interior speakers. Sub runs around 1000 watts RMS and interior speakers run about 450 watts RMS. Its around 1500 watts Total RMS


With that said i bought a 200 AMP alternator. This stereo seems to eat 3G alternators for breakfast. I had a 200 AMP one from EBAY. Worked about a year and died. Is PA Performance worth the price??? If i could get the parts i would rebuild my 200 amp Alt. myself.

You need to get a capacitor...I have 1250 watts, didn't relocate the battery, and have no problems with my 1 farad cap...you could pick up a 2 farad cap for about a hundred bucks...

Ok cool i just wasnt sure if the 200AMP Alternator was enough.

I still have the stock one on there that I replaced a couple years ago...the one you have should be plenty!

i would make sure your grounds are good before you waste your money on a capacitor.

The grounds are very good. Sanded spot, Nut, Bolt & Washer. This Stereo just draws a ton of power. 1500 watts isn't a max wattage. Its RMS. The MTX monoblock amp calls for a 150 amp fuse & 0/1Ga Wire and the Infinity amp has three 30 Amp fuses and calls for a 2 Ga Wire. Also battery is new.

well with that much power, i would run 2 batts and a high output alternator. a cap is not the answer. also with that much power, ALL of your grounds need to be upgraded. Battery to chassis, chassis to body, chassis to engine block and the positive wire from alt to batt.

Everything is 0Ga. Power & grounds included. I grounded the block too even though i use solid steel motor mounts which probably offer a better grounding than the wire ever will. I was thinking about a 2nd Charging system just for the power hungry MTX. I was gonna install a second alt where my Smog delete bracket is.

i think you need a quality HO alt and a 2nd battery... you will be golden!

Ahhh thats now what i wanted to hear lol....My Battery is a series 31 battery...(75 pounds) I think i would be ok if i could just find a strong enough Alt. I was looking at PA performance. I should call them and see what they say. But i don't want them to try to make a quick sale. Alotta guys will recommend anything.

Why do you say this is a waste? It is an inexpensive way to make up for the loss he is experiencing without spending a ton on a new alternator, putting in a second battery, etc...

what is your rationale?

Because DC electricity travels in a loop. You should increase wire size on the positive end without increasing the corresponding ground. Most car audio related electrical problems are caused by the installer (most likely hobbiest) overlooking this.

You'd be surprised that a stiffening cap shouldn't be used as a battery but more for power conditioning... leveling off the voltage from your car to the amps. The problem is that the amplifiers already have capacitors built in.

By the way, nice install in your stang. I saw some areas where I would have done some things different but the end result looks very good.

The power wires and grounds are good in this car. Its just that the stereo draw massive amounts of power. Like i said MTX alone requires an inline 150amp fuse... Voltage needle doesn't budge until the stereo is over 1/2 way up. This isn't my 1st stereo install. The issue isn't the wiring job...its the charging system not keeping up.

Thanks for the info..what would have you done different on my install? Please let me know...as I am always open to feedback..

Thanks!

Not much... Just clean up the wiring (even though it is out of sight). Fused distribution blocks for the power to the amps (this pics scares me ).

And of course.... Upgrade the grounds.

Other than that, the finished product looks GREAT
.

Ok, I also am running a 1501D and a mid and high amp in my '93. I have the 3g upgrade running 120 amp. I have been running this setup for years and it has functioned flawlessly. I did recently add a cap, but it wasn't absolutely necessary. I think you just got a bad alternator. But, as stated, double check your grounds. You did everything well, but use a meter, as that is the only way to truely tell how the grounds are functioning. And on a side note, 98 stang, please get rid of that wire nut in the picture, those are for house wiring... I'm begging you...

Nice pics. My amps are mounted upside down on a hinged home made rear seat delete.

Cool, thanks for the input...you actually can't see the ground wires in this pic...they attach right below where the hood latch is located...those are only the power wires and the remote turnon wiring at the top there...

Thanks for the feedback...I am always looking for some...

This was the 1st stereo I ever did...how does the wire nut affect anything if you can't see it? Functionally, it is the same as any other connection method...right?

This was the 1st stereo I ever did...how does the wire nut affect anything if you can't see it? Functionally, it is the same as any other connection method...right?[/QUOTE]

You are correct, as long as it stays on there, it is making an electrical connection. However with the vibration from the sound waves coming from the subs, it may fall off. I would recommend slodering, or butt connectors if the soldering isn't practical.