Progress Thread Street/strip 427w In A Gt Hatch- Slow Progress

Might be option, how hard are they to dodge when when working on the side of the motor? This thing will end up being a solid roller, and may need other track side tinkering so whatever ends up being the least pita is what I'll go with.
Just like Collin said, they're worth it and they're out of the way even when working on heads/headers area. Also with a light weight hood they will lift the hood up higher giving you more head clearance to lean into the bay when working. I'm 6'-3" so that was a plus for me.
 
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Have you started the motor build yet? Any parts pics? Lol. Also did you decide if you're using Woody or someone else?
Woody is doing the motor, still making monthly payments. Basically a long block, but the heads will be separate (TEA high-power 240s with a pac solid roller spring setup) since I need to do something to build it. I've been encouraged, mostly by @90lxcoupe , to go with a 4500-series intake but may still end up with a 4150 for packaging concerns. Still a ways off though, and I've got plenty to do till then.
 
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So I finally switched back to day shift today, which boosts the motivation factor enough to get a bit done this afternoon:
IMAG0030.jpg

and melted in (future note to self again-only use the weld thru primer on the BACK of the panel, otherwise it's a complete PITA)
IMAG0033.jpg


Ill try to get the other side tomorrow.
 
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Question for those that are more weld-talented than i (like @hoopty5.0 ): on that panel above, I was able to get what seemed to be decent welds (no holes, and the right "bzzzt" sound) along the top (bare-is metal, bit of primer and e-coat) and front (still some paint), but along that strut tower (bare metal with sem weld thru primer) it just wanted to to keep popping and melting holes in the thinner panel. Do I need to adjust my welders settings, not use that primer, or just all around do something different? Using a small 110v handy mig with the provided wire and mix gas, with the gun at a 45 to both panels making a series of tacks about 3-4" apart.
 
Question for those that are more weld-talented than i (like @hoopty5.0 ): on that panel above, I was able to get what seemed to be decent welds (no holes, and the right "bzzzt" sound) along the top (bare-is metal, bit of primer and e-coat) and front (still some paint), but along that strut tower (bare metal with sem weld thru primer) it just wanted to to keep popping and melting holes in the thinner panel. Do I need to adjust my welders settings, not use that primer, or just all around do something different? Using a small 110v handy mig with the provided wire and mix gas, with the gun at a 45 to both panels making a series of tacks about 3-4" apart.

@madmike1157 @Boosted92LX @Davedacarpainter
They may be able to chime in
 
If it's burning thru, turn it down. The other alternative is to move faster, but for someone who's not used to it the best bet is to drop the voltage, then adjust wire speed back where it needs to be. Sounds like bacon frying when it's right.
 
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SH*T, Chuck doesn't want me to chime in on welding! I suck! Bad!

I can paint though.....

My older brother can weld beautifully, and with him on the phone while I'm welding, I still F up. I might be a complete welding moron. Like a guy with no arms trying to be a wallpaper hanger....
 
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So I finally switched back to day shift today, which boosts the motivation factor enough to get a bit done this afternoon:
IMAG0030.jpg

and melted in (future note to self again-only use the weld thru primer on the BACK of the panel, otherwise it's a complete PITA)
IMAG0033.jpg


Ill try to get the other side tomorrow.
Jeez Chuck, I love those SR panels. Looks good man.

From my limited (and I mean limited) talents on welding, I agree with @Boosted92LX , either go faster, or turn down the heat and wire speed. One thing I've found in my welding self tutorial is that swinging a little wider on my welds makes them smoother, probably the same thing as speeding up. I cover more territory with the wire.

I don't know of anyway to actually run a bead on those panels though. If I remember right with mine, SR even says to tack weld around the parameter. The metal is just so thin. Maybe it's different with a TIG, I don't know.

That is why God gave us grinding wheels though Chuck.

I remember reading the build on Quicksilver in MM&FF, that son of a welder sure the hell can lay down some sweet welds.
 
If it's burning thru, turn it down. The other alternative is to move faster, but for someone who's not used to it the best bet is to drop the voltage, then adjust wire speed back where it needs to be. Sounds like bacon frying when it's right.
It's been a long time since I've actually fried bacon, I typically use the nuke machine:shrug:

It took a lot of trial and error, but I had it setup pretty good for plug welding the lrs panels which I think are 18ga. The SR ones are 22-20ga. And like I said it did fine around the other sides, it just didn't like that corner for some reason. Same settings (little less wire speed) as when I did the last panels. I'll try turning the amps down a bit tomorrow (was going to work on it today but a too tall lawn and an uncooperative lawn mower wore me out).
 
I don't know of anyway to actually run a bead on those panels though. If I remember right with mine, SR even says to tack weld around the parameter. The metal is just so thin. Maybe it's different with a TIG, I don't know.
I'm actually trying to avoid a full bead entirely and just stitch weld with a :poo: ton of tacks to keep them from warping. A tig would be great if I knew how to use it, and it wasn't such of pita to on your back under the car doing torque boxes (a future project I have planned, actually ordered those before I had the car down to a shell)
 
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I'm actually trying to avoid a full bead entirely and just stitch weld with a **** ton of tacks to keep them from warping. A tig would be great if I knew how to use it, and it wasn't such of pita to on your back under the car doing torque boxes (a future project I have planned, actually ordered those before I had the car down to a shell)
Yeah, did that a while back. My welds are ugly, but at least they're tight.

Uppers are a little bit of a pita, unless you have help, then np.

I assume you mean reinforcement for the torque boxes as well as welding the factory ones.
 
Hmmm...Introductions need to be made here:......

Mild steel patch panel?,..meet galvanized sheet metal. Galvanized sheet metal?....meet .030 solid steel welding wire.

I'm gonna guess that you are experiencing blow out from the galvanized metal not playing well when being asked to marry the mild steel you're trying to stick to it. If that's the case, you'll literally get a eruption of the molten metal that usually ends in a big assed hole. The solution is to prep the metal before trying to weld something to it. Since galvanizing is a top coated process, usually it can be ground/sanded off before trying to weld something to it. But at this juncture, it's too late for that. You'll just have to weld, and fix the mess that's made as a result of it.
 
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Hmmm...Introductions need to be made here:......

Mild steel patch panel?,..meet galvanized sheet metal. Galvanized sheet metal?....meet .030 solid steel welding wire.

I'm gonna guess that you are experiencing blow out from the galvanized metal not playing well when being asked to marry the mild steel you're trying to stick to it. If that's the case, you'll literally get a eruption of the molten metal that usually ends in a big assed hole. The solution is to prep the metal before trying to weld something to it. Since galvanizing is a top coated process, usually it can be ground/sanded off before trying to weld something to it. But at this juncture, it's too late for that. You'll just have to weld, and fix the mess that's made as a result of it.
Said section, as previously mentioned, has already been stripped to bare steel, and then a weld-thru primer applied. But I'm guessing that primer can act like a galvanize coat?
 
Said section, as previously mentioned, has already been stripped to bare steel, and then a weld-thru primer applied. But I'm guessing that primer can act like a galvanize coat?
Yeah, but there's bare steel, and then that section of bare steel having the galvanizing on the weld area ground off with a flap wheel. Unless you did that, you were welding galvanized metal. Was there white cob web looking junk on the back side of the weld in the shock tower? As for weld through primer.... I have never had good luck with it.
 
So got the passenger side panel about 80% welded before I ran out of both gas AND wire. Stripped all the weld primer from the areas I was going to be in, and it acted much better.

Now for some pics:
IMAG0034.jpg

IMAG0036.jpg
IMAG0037.jpg


And because it's been a controversial subject here lately, this is my third one of these:
IMAG0038.jpg


Now time for some grilling, and tomorrow I'll pick up some more gas, wire, and another can of raid to ward off the mud daubers and yellow jackets that keep wanting to share my garage....
 
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So got the passenger side panel about 80% welded before I ran out of both gas AND wire. Stripped all the weld primer from the areas I was going to be in, and it acted much better.

Now for some pics:
IMAG0034.jpg

IMAG0036.jpg
IMAG0037.jpg


And because it's been a controversial subject here lately, this is my third one of these:
IMAG0038.jpg


Now time for some grilling, and tomorrow I'll pick up some more gas, wire, and another can of raid to ward off the mud daubers and yellow jackets that keep wanting to share my garage....
Very nice chuck!

Don't y'all have any good beer in St. Louis? Or is there some sort of rule if you live that close to Budweiser HQ, you're forced to drink Budweiser products?
 
To me, bud IS a good beer. I've got friends who are into all that microbrew/craft stuff and try as I might I can't stomach it, and believe me I've tried. More of a bourbon and coke guy anyway.
 
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