Fox Stuck Power Steering Rack

mcalvo

Member
Mar 17, 2022
32
3
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Phoenix
Good Afternoon folks;

I hope you had a great new years. I need your expertise with a stuck power steering rack on my 93 foxbody (picture attached). The passenger side is pulling out fine. The driver side is stuck to the bushing and I am not able to pull the rack out of the K-member. My question is, do anybody has a suggestion to pull the rod out of the bushing besides hammering the rod out of the K-member??

I have had this problem for close to 1.5 months and any suggestion will be greatly appreciate it. I was thinking about reversing a power steering and alternator pulley puller. Again, please let me know you suggestions please.

Thanks
-Max
 

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The rack should slide off those tubes, leaving them connected to the k member.
Here’s a picture of when I disassembled my front end.
Have you tried a pry bar between the rack and k member?
14ED6429-446F-4B8F-8DBB-A08B10FB21B2.png
 
Pry bar. Big one.

Normally the rack pulls off those two tubes, but the tubes can also be removed from the K-member as well. Unfortunately with the engine in place you might not have enough access to tap them out.
 
Good Morning folks;

First of all, thank you for your input and feedback with my power steering saga. This is the process I had to Jerry-rig to get the power steering out. Let me explain my situation with pics and comments as well.

As you can see the power steering rack sleeves are uneven. This was due the power steering fluid leaking over the entire K-member. When I push on the power steering rack, the rack sleeve woudl come out as well. The entire power steering rack hit the sawy bar so I could not remove it from the car.

IMG_0518.jpg


This is the Jerry-rig I had to figure out in order to pull the power steering out. Having one extension rod with a 3/4 inch socket jam against the sawy bar while laveraging the power stetting rack with another extension rod got the rack out.
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Here is the steering out.
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Now I got another issue. I am short about 1/2 inch on the steering shaft rag joint. Let me explain my install steps for the new power steering.
I basically used the same nuts to push the bushings and rack back into place. There was no room for mullet.

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I make sure that the rack was tight and the nuts do not go any further into the bolts. It is really tight there. I cannot turn the nut anymore. However, I still not able to fully push the pinon into the steering shaft rag joint. The first pic is the pinon out rubbing against the rag joint. The last pic is the pinion is at now.
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The steering wheel does turn the tires but as you can see I am very concern about the safety obviously. Based on the install steps I did what suggestions do you folks have? I have pulled the rack forward and backwards a couple of times to re-seat it with the same result. The nut does not turn anymore. So I need your expertise on this matter. What am I missing?

Thanks in advance
 
The steering column will collapse. Read this thread.

 
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Gentlemen, It worked! The power steering column came out. Now it is seating perfectly.

IMG_1017.JPG



I want to thank all of you for helping me with this "project" or PITA. I greatly appreciate it.

I do would like to leave small tip for anybody who reads this and is in the same situation. I used a 48oz hammer to pull the column out. You only have to attach a heavy duty string. In my case I used an old household dryer belt and tied it around the U-joint in the steering column and then pull. I think the easiest is to pull in the direction as the column. I started from the side of the engine. But the power steering pump was there. So I moved under the engine. Much easier. You don't need to tug on it too much. I give it a firm pull and I felt the column extending. Picture below. Again I hope this helps somebody else. Remember it's only difficult the first time.


IMG_1016.JPG
 
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Gentlemen, It worked! The power steering column came out. Now it is seating perfectly.

IMG_1017.JPG



I want to thank all of you for helping me with this "project" or PITA. I greatly appreciate it.

I do would like to leave small tip for anybody who reads this and is in the same situation. I used a 48oz hammer to pull the column out. You only have to attach a heavy duty string. In my case I used an old household dryer belt and tied it around the U-joint in the steering column and then pull. I think the easiest is to pull in the direction as the column. I started from the side of the engine. But the power steering pump was there. So I moved under the engine. Much easier. You don't need to tug on it too much. I give it a firm pull and I felt the column extending. Picture below. Again I hope this helps somebody else. Remember it's only difficult the first time.


IMG_1016.JPG
LOL, I had to do the exact same thing. Actually had to "swing" it to get it to move. Glad it worked out for ya.
 
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Once again, I am in need of some assistance.
IMG_1398.JPG

The seal is busted and leaking fluid! Does anybody has any suggestions? Or should I just order a new washer and replace? Once again thank you for sharing your expertise.
 
There is an o-ring and Teflon gasket that seal up the lines going into the rack. I believe they sell the Teflon seals in the “Help” section at the auto parts stores. O-Ring will need to be a Teflon variant as the power steering fluid will eventually soften up a Buna o-ring and it will extrude and fail.

Good discussion on the seals with part numbers here:


 
Last edited:
The rack should slide off those tubes, leaving them connected to the k member.
Here’s a picture of when I disassembled my front end.
Have you tried a pry bar between the rack and k member?
14ED6429-446F-4B8F-8DBB-A08B10FB21B2.png
Thank you for the pic. I want to ask you. What size wire you have for the starter motor? And what size wire loom you used?
 
Thank you for the pic. I want to ask you. What size wire you have for the starter motor? And what size wire loom you used?
I’ll have to take a look but I’m pretty sure it’s 4 gauge, and a 10 gauge trigger wire. The loom is probably 3/4 to get them both inside.
When I can, I’ll double check for sure.
 
I’ll have to take a look but I’m pretty sure it’s 4 gauge, and a 10 gauge trigger wire. The loom is probably 3/4 to get them both inside.
When I can, I’ll double check for sure.
Thanks a lot for the reply. I am doing the same type of wire upgrade but with 1/0 gauge wire. One last question, does the starter wire goes under or over the k-member bracket connected to the engine block? I am guessing under since the exhaust pipes are over the bracket. But I just want to make sure. Thanks again.