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Required fuel is already at 2 lol

I swear I saw somewhere in TS to declare fuel type, and my e85 correction gauge was showing 160%. I turned the flex fuel stuff off and it now shows 100% which I would think means zero additional?
I just need to pull a bunch of fuel out and go from there. All of the individual cylinder corrections were turned off.

I'm going to test fire the injectors and coils Monday as I should have already done.

Truth be told I'm tempted to order the Holley system and cut my losses but I'm invested in this system enough to tough it out. I'm computer savvy enough that these TS navigation issues can't last forever. Downloaded megalog viewer registered last night but the data log I had saved didn't translate for whatever reason


Sounds to me you may have a couple things possibly out of whack.
  1. Is your AFR Gauge (not the TS Gauge on the computer) for the wideband set to e85?
  2. What is your AFR Table setup for? The AFR Table is converted from Lambda "1", so it doesn't care what fuel you are using. If it is set for 14.7 then the AFR Table needs to be setup for Gasoline, and if it is 9.760 then the AFR Table needs to be set for e85.
  • Basic/Load Settings
  • General Settings
  • Then look at Stoichiometric AFR (Left Column, 1/2 way down)
  1. Is your Required Fuel Calculator setup correctly with appropriate settings especially the Air-Fuel Ratio box setting it to 9.760 (e85 Stoich)
 
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Lambda for either fuel is 1 so maybe switching the table to that would be beneficial.

It's currently set for 14.7 but I can't see where to designate fuel type or if it's even needed.

The actual wideband is set on AFR for gasoline, I've never plugged its controller in at all.

I'll double check the required fuel table might be something there

The only thing leading me to suspect a mechanical/electrical issue is that the fuel table being out of whack would affect both sides of the engine.
There's got to be a vacuum leak or malfunctioning injector/coil.
 
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Lambda for either fuel is 1 so maybe switching the table to that would be beneficial.

It's currently set for 14.7 but I can't see where to designate fuel type or if it's even needed.

The actual wideband is set on AFR for gasoline, I've never plugged its controller in at all.

I'll double check the required fuel table might be something there

The only thing leading me to suspect a mechanical/electrical issue is that the fuel table being out of whack would affect both sides of the engine.
There's got to be a vacuum leak or malfunctioning injector/coil.

You dont designate fuel type... you designate AFR for the type of fuel you are using.

You can switch your AFR Table to lambda if you want. You can make it whatever you want it to be e85, gasoline, lambda, etc. What would you like it to be?

Post your current msq to make this easier to help.
 
From what I gather from the last few responses.... your stoic afr is correct for gasoline and the WB is outputting the correct scale.

Your fuel injectors are frigging huge, but that's not an issue it's just the basic setup that we all go through, needs to be tweaked.


All the settings conversed about in the last few posts have no effect on the way the fuel is delivered at this juncture, they will become much more prevalent once we have ego feedback.
 
Going to put a mechanical gauge on the car hopefully Monday. If oil pressure doesn't read higher than the laptop was showing, I'll be pulling the engine out next weekend.
 
Lambda for either fuel is 1 so maybe switching the table to that would be beneficial.

It's currently set for 14.7 but I can't see where to designate fuel type or if it's even needed.

The actual wideband is set on AFR for gasoline, I've never plugged its controller in at all.

I'll double check the required fuel table might be something there

The only thing leading me to suspect a mechanical/electrical issue is that the fuel table being out of whack would affect both sides of the engine.
There's got to be a vacuum leak or malfunctioning injector/coil.
What do you do when E85 isn't available and you run a tank of part E85 and part E10 Pump gasoline?

Does the computer have an input for a fuel mix sensor like the one in flex-fuel vehicles?
 
Finally had a free hour to mess with the car and was able to change the pressure sensor.
IMG_7815.JPG

This is a relief.
 
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After shocking myself 7 times and blowing the charge pipe off the throttle body I believe I've got my tune/fuel/engine temp disaster sorted out. Assuming the plastic intake didn't break, I'll have a video tomorrow afternoon.
 
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After shocking myself 7 times and blowing the charge pipe off the throttle body I believe I've got my tune/fuel/engine temp disaster sorted out. Assuming the plastic intake didn't break, I'll have a video tomorrow afternoon.
You're not making progress until you blow your charge pipe off. If you recall, I launched mine 100' into a field.
 
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No video today. Went out and fired it up, couldn't get the idle down and started having connectivity issues with my ECU.
Updated USB drivers which helped for a minute. Done screwing with it, going to find the right adapter to use the other style connector.

Combine that with coolant pouring out of the thermostat housing, it's time to take a few steps back and fix some of this.

Found a couple missing vacuum caps (guessing they were lost in the backfire lol) and it got better but it still won't idle down below 1500 or so with the throttle shut. If I had to guess the intake is probably cracked but i won't know til this weekend.


Last night after replacing the oil pressure switch I started trying to figure out my temperature/car-runs-like-:poo: issue.

Replaced injectors, replaced coil packs, swapped sides, etc etc. no changes. Still too hot on the passenger side and far too cold on the drivers.

Ditched the tune my buddy gave me and loaded up one that came on the USB with my MS system. Not sure how I overlooked it before.
Tweaked it for injector and engine size, plugged my baby timing table in and pulled a little fuel out in the idle area (doesn't matter since the #%$&%^ thing won't idle now anyways)

Still.Ran.Like.Shlt

Dug around in Tuner Studios and found the Test fire coil/injector function. Pulled the fuel pump fuse and started test firing each coil.

Here's where I should have disconnected the plug wires.

I knew there would probably be a little fuel left in the cylinders, and for the first few coils there was either no reaction or hardly any at all.

Upon pressing the "start" button to test Coil H, there was a large bang which blew the intake charge pipe off. It wasn't tightened down but still when you've been working silently in a garage listening for coils buzzing, commence pants crapping.

Through the use of my trusty screw driver (rubber handle does not keep you from shocking the piss out of yourself FYI) I fired each coil individually. Labeling the ones that fired and the ones that didn't.

No action on any coil on the drivers side and 1 weak coil on the passenger side.

Ding Ding....


Checked some fuses, traced some wiring, made it as complicated as I could for about 20 minutes before finding the ground on the back of the drivers head loose.
Fixed that and retested. Firing on all coils.


Now I'm still pretty sure that the coils mounted to the car are mixed up. So Friday I'm going to label them the same as my test coils and test them again. If they don't fire when their name is called, I'll know to flip the harness.


The silver lining to an otherwise defeated day:

New PTC converter showed up today.

IMG_7838.JPG
 
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Ignition issues resolved, newly found 2200-2800rpm idle problem unresolved.

Checked everywhere for vacuum leaks passed the throttlebody. Nothing. Even pulled off and checked the intake for cracks. Nada.

Believing it's an IAC issue. Of course my ECU disconnects from my laptop every time I start the car now so there's no way to know.

Possibility that the battery voltage is dropping too low during cranking. At least that's all I've come up with. Going to let the battery charge for a while and try it again.

Apparently the tunes that come on the USB aren't even meant for this setup and I had to request base tunes to be emailed to me. So I started fresh there. (Hence the lack of tune files posted for others to view)

Realizing how much I dislike the entire setup, going to persist another week or so hoping to get this all resolved. Just want the damn thing to idle correctly for 5 minutes and I could move on to the rest of the mechanical work.
Nonetheless, as a last resort (ive run about 10 gallons of gas through this car trying to get it to run correctly as of now, giving it a fair shake) I've got a buddy putting a quote together to switch the car over to the Holley EFI I'm more comfortable with.
 
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Hmmm.....

I think I remember someone on here offering to give you a hand with the software...... what was that guys name again?

In 5 minuets I can tell you if it's a mechanical issue or not and teach you how to use the software......


Just say'n
 
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Hmmm.....

I think I remember someone on here offering to give you a hand with the software...... what was that guys name again?

In 5 minuets I can tell you if it's a mechanical issue or not and teach you how to use the software......


Just say'n
I'm happy to send you the msq. I just can't do anything with it when the laptop is disconnecting every time the car starts.
Let me know what you'd like from me I won't turn down the help
 
Get me a tune and datalog file of the car running.

Big thing is why is the laptop disconnecting.... I have a few methods to try and connect to remedy this.


Few basic questions for my inquisitive mind.
- true iac or a warmup valve
- have you tried unplugging the iac to see what happens.
- verified that the TB is not stuck open some.