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Discussion in '2.3L (N/A & Turbo) Tech' started by Red_LX, May 4, 2002.
This header is available from Racer Walsh and J.C. Whitney.
Bolt-on Turbo for you mass air guys
I stumbled upon this and thought I would share it.
They tell you how to bolt on a turbo to your mass air 2.3 and make 10 psi of boost. Note that the ranger motor in question is the same as the 91-93 mustang 2.3 motor.
6 Cyl. engines found in Fox bodies...
6 cyl. engines were only available in '79-'86 fox bodies. after '86, there was no 6 cyl engine available in a mustang till '94.
so, here's the skinney on 6 cyl. four eye'd foxes...
'79: 2.8L v6 AND 3.3L I6 available, both carb'ed. both available as an option. rare 2.8 tags on the fenders - same design as the later 5.0 tags. 2.3 tags even rarer. only year for the 2.8L in a fox.
V6- 109 HP I6- 85 HP
'80-'82: 3.3L I6, carb'ed. never seen one with a manual trans.
'80 I6- up-rated to 91 HP
'81 I6- up-rated to 94 HP
'82 I6- 94 HP
'83: 3.8L V6, carb'ed. standard engine for verts. only came with an auto.
V6- 112 HP
'84-'86: 3.8L V6, CFI. only came with an auto. standard engine for verts. while the auto GT HP rating went down with CFI, the V6 increase 8 HP.
V6- 120 HP
Anybody else have a link for a cold air intake install guide for a 90 lx? the one in the first post doesn't seem to be working.
Put some wiring schematics from a Merkur shop manual that were emailed to me on my site. http://188.8.131.52/merkur_docs.shtml . I should be adding more merkur docs in the future, hopefully some more schematics since they're so hard to find.
Find all the below at http://www.pomoforacing.com/tech/
Installing an Intank Fuel Pump In Your Ford Mustang
Chris' Tried and True 8.8 Gear Install Article
Make your own Torque-Box Reinforcement Plates
How to Rebuild the Ford T5 Manual Transmission
How To Rebuild your Ford T45 Manual Transmission
Ford Harmonic Balancer Installer Tool
Ford Rear Shock Install
Here ya go, Aguilor, that link apparently hasnt' worked for awhile (reindeer is having problems with his page).
A simple cold air intake for your 2.3L Mustang-----
A cold air intake isn't that hard to make, and after my experimentation here and there with making an intake, I've finally found a design that works great, is easy to make, and is cheap. This intake will locate the filter in the inner fenderwell, right in front of the passenger side front wheel, however it will be safe from picking up water (unless you drive through a lake or something). It needs to be noted that this exact design WILL NOT WORK on mass-air cars ('91-93). It was performed on my '90 with speed-density, so will work on any speed density car exactly as I have it written here. However, if someone with a mass-air car can figure out a way to work the mass air sensor into this design, they could submit it to this page and help out some mass-air people J
What you will need to make this intake:
- A 5 foot long piece of 3" PVC pipe (white or black, your choice, the white is cheaper)
- One 3", 45* "street" elbow fitting with a flange at one end
- A flexible rubber coupling for this elbow
- One 3", 90* elbow fitting with flanges on both ends
- A K&N cone filter with a 3.5" flange (Jeg's part no. 599-RU-3130)
- PVC glue or super glue and some 3.5" hose clamps
- Some sort of insulation to cover the PVC in the engine bay; I used Thermo-Tec thermo shield tape (Summit part no. THE-14002) but you probably could use something like a Thermo-Tec Cool-It Mat (Part no. THE-14100)
- Note: If you have access to a garage, a floor jack, and some jack stands, it can make some parts of this installation MUCH easier. Later in the installation, when you need to test fit the pipe inside the fenderwell, having the car elevated makes it a lot easier to get the pipe up inside the fenderwell.
To get started, first you have to remove the old intake hose and airbox. This is easy to do, loosen the clamp closest to the intake pipe itself (not the clamp on the TB) and one of the clamps on the rubber boot on the airbox and pull the intake pipe free. Then, pull out the airbox after removing the bolts holding it down. You will notice now that there are three hoses connected to the airbox- two on top and one on the bottom. First, find the one on top that goes all the way back to the firewall (vacuum hose). Pull it off the airbox and tuck the end down by the inner fenderwell. Next, pull off the hose that runs between the airbox and the exhaust manifold heat shield. You can pull this hose off the heat shield too, if you want.
Now you're ready to start on the intake. First, measure off a piece of the PVC to approximately 15" long. (Note- when cutting this pipe, be sure to clean off all the plastic shavings before final installation onto the car. You don't want that stuff in your engine!) Cut this off, and slide the 45* degree fitting on the end of the pipe, making sure they are connected firmly. Test fit this in the engine bay and make sure it fits properly-the end of the pipe slips inside the rubber boot on the TB, and the 45* fitting needs to be aligned with the round hole in the inner fenderwell (right behind where the airbox was). Once you are satisfied that everything is the right length, get the rubber coupling. Loosen and remove the clamps and take out the tin piece wrapped around the rubber (if there is one). Slip the coupling onto the end of the fitting and make sure it's on as far as it will go, then make any necessary adjustments to the length of the main pipe so that the end of the coupling is flush with the round hole. Now, you can work on the rest of the intake. You'll need to cut two pieces of pipe-one about 4" long and another about 13". The purpose of the 4" piece is to go through the round hole in the firewall and connect the 45* and 90* fitting. The piece may need to be longer or shorter; I couldn't measure it exactly due to me forgetting to take measurements as I was building the intake. Fit the 13" piece and the 90* elbow together firmly, then slip the 4" piece in the other end of the fitting and push it in until it's snug. Test fit this by slipping it inside the fenderwell through the bottom (right in the corner, between the bottom of the front bumper and the plastic inner fender lining. If there isn't enough room to slip it up in, you'll need to trim away some of the plastic at the very front of the lining. Don't cut away too much, though, or you won't have anything to support the filter and you'll run a greater risk of water getting in the filter). Make sure you can get the end of the 4" piece through the round hole and slip it into the rubber coupling (it's kinda tough), and make sure there is a sufficient length of the pipe inside the coupling that it can be held in securely with the clamps. If everything fits good, then pull the pipe back out of the fenderwell and slip the filter on the end (don't tighten the clamp), and put it back up into the fenderwell to check the fit of things with the filter on the end. You may want to trim some off the end of the pipe so that there isn't so much of it inside the filter. If it looks like everything fits good, you're ready to move onto the final fitment.
To install the insulation, it will go one of two ways. If you use the mat, you should probably wait until the intake is completely installed, and then simply wrap the mat around any part of the intake that's inside the engine bay (including the rubber boot on the TB) and then secure it with two or three hose clamps or metal ties. If you use the tape, first remove the pipe from the engine bay, pull it apart, and remove the coupling from the fitting. If you wish to paint the fitting, now's the time to do it (you won't be able to see the pipe under the insulation). I painted mine black. Before painting, you'll probably want to thoroughly clean off the fitting with mineral spirits or else the paint won't stick too well; then you just use standard painting techniques. You should also clean the pipe with the solvent to aid adhesion of the tape. Once everything's dried sufficiently and the paint on the fitting is cured, connect the pipe and fitting again. When they are firmly and properly connected, put some super glue around the outside of the flange, where the pipe goes in (I used super glue and not PVC glue, so if you have some of that, read the package as to how you use it exactly). Applying the tape is easy, but the paper backing on the tape can be a pain in the butt. What I did was pull off fairly long sections of the tape, pull off the backing, and cut it off. Wrap the tape around the pipe, and wrap it towards the other end of the pipe (don't overlap the wraps). Once you wrap to the other end, wrap it back and be sure to cover any bare spots, and make sure you have insulation over the whole pipe, including the part inside the rubber boot on the TB (this was the part that softened and deformed on mine because I neglected to cover it). There should be plenty to cover the whole pipe as the roll is 15' long.
Now put the pipe back together, tighten the clamp on the rubber coupling on the fitting, and reinstall into the engine bay but don't tighten the clamp on the rubber boot. Before putting the other pipe back into the fenderwell, put some superglue around the flanges on the fitting to secure the pipes and make sure they won't come apart. Also make sure the clamp on the filter is facing toward the middle of the car so that you can tighten it down once you get the pipe inside the fenderwell. Slip the pipe back inside the fenderwell, and make sure the pipe is pointing as straight down as possible. Put the rubber coupling onto the end of the pipe once you get it through the hole, and tighten the clamp firmly so the pipe won't fall out. Then tighten the clamp on the boot on the TB. Now, reach up into the fenderwell and pull the filter down until it is against the plastic fender lining. Wedge it in tightly and hold it there while you tighten the clamp on the filter (you may have to use a "stubby" screwdriver and it is a little tough to get your arm in there). Once that's tightened down, voila, you're done. It's a good idea to check everything and make sure everything is good and tight, because you don't want this coming apart on you while you're driving.
Now you can go out and enjoy your new cold-air intake. You can feel the power increase, plus it makes your intake sound cool (if you have stock exhaust on your car, you can hear the intake outside the car). Total cost of this project is about $60, much cheaper than buying an intake from someone like KKM, plus this intake is insulated, which the KKM's are not. Only disadvantage is that this intake is not as pleasing to the eye (but who really cares about that, right?).
A couple notes: When the K&N is due for servicing, it can be easily removed for cleaning by loosening the clamp on the filter and sliding it up the pipe, then loosening the rubber coupling in the engine bay and removing the whole pipe from inside the fender well. Reinstallation is just a reverse of that. It's also a good idea to buy a K&N filter cleaning kit when you buy the filter, and follow the instructions on the box. I wouldn't recommend cleaning the filter any other way, as you are just more likely to damage the filter or wear it out before its time. Also, as I stated, this intake should be fine driving in rain, as there is really nothing to throw water up into it or anything. However, it would probably be a good idea to avoid large puddles or other such standing water because this COULD get in.
So there ya go, good luck and happy motoring!
Thought I'd add this....
Here's an easy way to add a fuel pressure gauge mounted directly on your fuel rail. If you have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, it will make adjusting the fuel pressure much easier.
Parts you need, from Summit:
Fuel pressure gauge SUM-800160 (1 1/2" liquid filled gauge)
This is a pretty easy job, really. First, get a 9mm deep socket and remove the schrader valve from the fuel rail. If you don't have a deep socket, you can use a regular wrench, but it takes forever. After you get it out, you have two options: You can either screw the gauge into the adapter, screw the whole assembly into the fuel rail, and tighten it with a wrench, or you can put in the adapter and tighten it with a socket, and then screw in the gauge. Honestly, I did it the first way, and I don't know which is easier (they're probably both about as hard as there isn't much room to work). Regardless, you need to put some pipe sealant on the threads of the adapter, and you will need a 9/16" wrench or socket to tighten it. Anyway that's about all there is to it...just make sure you tighten everything down good or it will leak fuel around the adapter!
Turbo guys would be best off getting the summit 0-100psi fuel pressure gauge # SUM-800199 with the adapter RED_LX listed above.
HANDS DOWN BEST DAMN SITE FOR TURBOCOUPE, SVO, MERK, XR..... INFO COVERS EVERYTHING, INCLUDES ALL OPTIONS
Turbo Oil & Coolant Lines...
Pictures showing how to hook up all the coolant lines and oil lines on your turbo as well as how to hook up your bypass valve can be found here:
2.3 DP DIS Turbo group
Discussion group on EEC Tuners
FACTORY STEREO/SPEAKER WIRING COLORS, IF YOU HAVE NO CONNECTORS OR NOT USING A KIT
HERE IS THE WIRING KEY.... THIS DOES NOT APPLY TO PREMIUM SOUND SYSTEMS THOUGH
Here is the cheapest source out there for rebuilt T3 turbo cartridges...it comes with the turbine and compressor wheel, backing plates, center section, and a housing gasket assembled and micro-balanced...all for 115 bucks...I've been using one for quite a while now and it works great.
Call 1 800 331 0616 and ask for Bev. The shop is located in Alabama I believe.
Rear control arm bolt sizes are as follows:
81mm long, 12mm X 1.75 pitch
103mm long, 12mm X 1.75pitch
You need 4 of each if you are going to replace the control arm bolts.
Lots of injector specs
Definitions of Detonation and Preignition.
The knocking sounds you hear are the cylinder walls set into oscillation by intense pressure waves, caused by abnormal combustion. Normal combustion is a controlled burn that starts from the spark plug and spreads outward, causing a pressure rise in the combustion chamber. This pressure is then converted into torque on the crankshaft. Ideally, the peak pressures will occur about ten to fifteen degrees after top dead center (TDC), as the piston is on its way down.
Detonation is a form of abnormal combustion that starts off right, but at the last millisecond, something goes wrong. The remaining air-fuel mixture, called the "end gas", explodes all at once, instead of burning in a controlled way. Resultant engine damage is caused by an instantaneous pressure rise that can excede 1500 psi. This is more than double the normal peak combustion pressure, and will blow head gaskets, break piston ring lands and hammer the rod bearings. Another form of damage seen is that the tops of the pistons will be eroded and can even melt.
High octane fuels are resistant to detonation because they contain compounds that slow down the chemical chain reaction we call combustion. If left unchecked, these chain reactions would quickly escalate, resulting in increasing damage to the piston and other engine components. All fuels, regardless of octane, have a knock limit. This is reached when the temperature of the "end gas" reaches an autoignition point. Combustion chamber designers use high swirl inlets and large "quench areas" to fight this "autoignition" problem. There are other factors beyond these mechanical design features which influence "end gas" temperatures. Some of these are: (1) Intake charge temperature, (2) Coolant temperature, (3) Compression Ratio, (4) Boost pressure, (5) Spark timing, (6) Air-fuel ratio, and (6) Humidity.
An increase in compression ratio, boost pressure, or spark timing will increase peak cylinder pressure, which in turn raises the "end gas" temperature. Higher inlet and coolant temperatures also increase the "end gas" temperature. Richer mixtures can be used to cool the charge. At some point beyond about 10:1, however, will again increase the tendency to detonate. A decrease in humidity will also tend to increase detonation.
Preignition and detonation are two separate and distinct events. It was first pointed out as far back as 1906 that the two phenomena were not only quite distinct but were in fact not related to each other. In the first place, preignition in itself does not produce an audible "knock" and if it is audible at all it could be described as a "dull thud". Because preignition is frequently brought about as a result of persistent detonation, the distinct "knock or ping" of the latter came quite erroneously to be associated with it.
It is by no means uncommon for preignition, or in this case it would be more correct to describe it as autoignition, to occur at the same phase as the timed spark. In this case the ignition can be switched off, and the engine could continue to run perfectly steadily without the slightest observable change in performance, sound, or any other characteristic. The danger, however, lies in the fact that all control of timing can be lost and ignition may creep in earlier in the cycle.
The danger of preignition lies not so much in the development of high pressures but rather in the very great increase in heat flow to the piston and cylinder walls when the ignition occurs too early in the cycle. This increase in heat flow, in turn, raises still further the temperature of the hot spot or surface which is causing the preignition resulting in even earlier ignition. At some point the temperatures are elevated to the point where the incoming charge is ignited, causing backfiring in the inlet tract. The belief, still widely held, that preignition can give rise to dangerously high cylinder pressures is totally false. Under no circumstances is the peak pressure resulting from preignition appreciably higher than from a spark-initiated ignition and, in both cases, the peak is reached when the maximum pressure is attained at or just after top dead center, that is to say, about 10 degrees earlier than the normal optimum. As the time of ignition is further advanced by either advancing the time of the spark or by earlier preignition, the maximum cylinder pressure falls again due to the excessive heat loss, for the piston is then compressing gas at or about its maximum temperature, and the intensity of heat flow is increased many times. The danger lies not in the production of excessive pressures but of excessive heat fow. The intense heat flow in the affected cylinder can result in piston seizure followed by the breaking-up of the piston with catastrophic results to the whole engine.
In nine cases out of ten, preignition is initiated by overheating of the sparkplug electrodes or some sharp point or edge that has gone "critical". We are accustomed these days to focus all our attention on the subject of detonation for it is the limiting factor controlling the performance of a spark-ignition engine. We are apt to forget that the real danger is that it leads on to preignition. In itself, detonation is not dangerous... It is the preignition it gives rise to that can so easily wreck an engine.
This post is for anyone who wants to know the basics of how a turbo functions. These links contain information on turbos, waste gates, intercoolers and the like. Athough they are somewhat simple, they are good for new comers and those who are just interested.
This first link contains a bit more information than the second one but both are informative.
Hope these were helpfull.
I've heard a few people talk about their intercooler hoses coming off. This happened to me a bunch in the SVO and the main suggestion has been to find a radiator hose that works. Problem is that there are 2500+ hoses to look at.
If anybody needs them, I found the perfect hose that works awesome.
In autozone part #L-395
One end is pretty large and the hose has the perfect size flange in the middle to make the upper and lower hose.
Hope this helps.