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Any input is appreciated. When funds allow I'll buy the Wolfe kit and go from there. Need some coil overs still too. Missed a smokin deal on some qa1s the other day
I thought about it, but the materials would probably be in the 30 - 40 dollar range. Last I checked, the unassembled kit was $50. To me, the extra money is worth no having to screw with templates in the back of a coupe. Hatches have a little more room to play in
I was wrong, they're $130. It's $50 cheaper to ship them unassembled.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=807
Where would I buy metal in large enough pieces to do that? Home depot only sells small squares.
http://www.wolferacecraft.com/detail.aspx?ID=807
Where would I buy metal in large enough pieces to do that? Home depot only sells small squares.
- Dec 19, 2010
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Look up sheetmetal shops in your area. They'll sell it to you, hell they might even make them for you for $50. There was one near me- Angleton Sheet Metal. They loved doing stuff for hot cars and was always happy to sell me whatever I needed.
Not a bad idea. I think there is a place near me that might.
Also, any chance you'd be interested in my magnaflow cat back? It's only 6 months old and now I can't use it
- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
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- Dec 19, 2010
- 5,719
- 4,238
- 224
I don't need it, but I have a friend who might want it. PM me with details, or Noobz will come in here and spank your hiney. Noobz347
* Sigh*
That's how I know you people do not pay attention to me. Why would you buy a whole new wheel tub, when you already have one in your car?
Carefully cut out your inner tub (the required tools depicted in my clean floor). Take the cut inner piece and move it in the distance you want it to be (In my case 1-1/4" cause I wanted to use the back seat) But on the orange and black car it was like 5". Cut a filler piece out of 18-16 ga (readily available in 6 x 24" pieces at Lowes) and tack it back in place. I welded the entire seam where the tub met the floor in the new location (just as you will have to w/ that wolfe kit) and then re-attached my trunk hinge supports back to the reloc'd inner tub. It allowed me to use a 7.2" B/S wheel while keeping an aftermarket coil over almost in the stock location. Regardless, You are relegated to the frame rail being your stopping point w/ regard to how deep you can go, and this tub is moved inboard to the 3/4" away point.
If you want to make it pretty from above, you can swipe a smear of body putty on the top side and nobody will even know that your car has been altered.
The tires I have on there are 28" tall on a 10" wide rim.
So how does about $30.00 and some careful cutting compare?
That's how I know you people do not pay attention to me. Why would you buy a whole new wheel tub, when you already have one in your car?
Carefully cut out your inner tub (the required tools depicted in my clean floor). Take the cut inner piece and move it in the distance you want it to be (In my case 1-1/4" cause I wanted to use the back seat) But on the orange and black car it was like 5". Cut a filler piece out of 18-16 ga (readily available in 6 x 24" pieces at Lowes) and tack it back in place. I welded the entire seam where the tub met the floor in the new location (just as you will have to w/ that wolfe kit) and then re-attached my trunk hinge supports back to the reloc'd inner tub. It allowed me to use a 7.2" B/S wheel while keeping an aftermarket coil over almost in the stock location. Regardless, You are relegated to the frame rail being your stopping point w/ regard to how deep you can go, and this tub is moved inboard to the 3/4" away point.
If you want to make it pretty from above, you can swipe a smear of body putty on the top side and nobody will even know that your car has been altered.
The tires I have on there are 28" tall on a 10" wide rim.
So how does about $30.00 and some careful cutting compare?
IT'S AlIVE!!!!
...sort of. The timing is miles off and there's no fuel system, but I got it to fire. Too tired for pics and crap. I'll do it tomorrow hopefully with a short idle video.
But it's there and I'm happy.
...sort of. The timing is miles off and there's no fuel system, but I got it to fire. Too tired for pics and crap. I'll do it tomorrow hopefully with a short idle video.
But it's there and I'm happy.
Awesome. It's definitely relieving when that engine fires up for the first time. You must be doing something right! 
Congratulations on the start up. Did you look under it to be sure all the liquid that's supposed to be in the engine, is still in the engine?
Most of the oil I put in new startup engines ends up on the floor.
That's all I got.
Most of the oil I put in new startup engines ends up on the floor.
That's all I got.
I just got it to sputter for a second before calling it quits for the night. I'm going to shoot for a full "run" today
30 seconds put 5 qts on the floor for me.
Im not saying that it happens all the time,.....but I wouldn't want to have to jump outta my car again to avoid the Exxon Valdeez spill I had going on.
I can't post pictures and videos because I don't have any interwebs. So, via my portable communication device I can tell you it has an idle that would get any gear head to half staff. All accessories are wired and controlled via switch panel. Just need a pump and some line and I will be driving. Need a cowl hood too 
So I began with the idea that I would do a semi-permanent setup for the electronics. The wiring will be staying. The crooked panels will definitely not be.
Here is the start of the wiring process. I needed somewhere to mount my digital 6+ box and run power to all of my accessories.
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-09
Silly me for thinking I could eyeball drilling holes in a straight line
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-09
So here we are, painted, box and blocks mounted
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-09
For the switch panel, I took the time to draw lines and got a much better result
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-10
Beginning of the wiring process. Here is the back of the switch panel and the resulting wiring harness to all of the things in the car that require +12v
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-10
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-10
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-10
I have the dash and center console in now to mock everything up. I plan on installing some sound deadener eventually. Probably after I get back from my next trip, along with the roll cage and mini tubs. Still need a fuel pump and regulator, but i rigged it up enough to get it to run. I'll post the video in a minute.
Here is the start of the wiring process. I needed somewhere to mount my digital 6+ box and run power to all of my accessories.
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-09
Silly me for thinking I could eyeball drilling holes in a straight line
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-09
So here we are, painted, box and blocks mounted
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-09
For the switch panel, I took the time to draw lines and got a much better result
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-10
Beginning of the wiring process. Here is the back of the switch panel and the resulting wiring harness to all of the things in the car that require +12v
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-10
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-10
By hoopty50 at 2012-05-10
I have the dash and center console in now to mock everything up. I plan on installing some sound deadener eventually. Probably after I get back from my next trip, along with the roll cage and mini tubs. Still need a fuel pump and regulator, but i rigged it up enough to get it to run. I'll post the video in a minute.
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