Progress Thread The Official Gila Monster Build

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by madmike1157, Aug 29, 2013.


  1. 84Ttop

    84Ttop They make new pistons every day, so why worry? SN Certified Technician Mod Dude

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    All of the Frozen Boost stuff that I have seen and used has been very good quality! I highly doubt it will give you a bit of trouble.
     
    #221
  2. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    You needn't humble yourself after having combos that made the power of the ones featured in your sig. I only seek a fraction of your greatness.....and I'm far from a God.

    God of ground smooth welds,......Pubah of thick wall tubas,......maybe.:cool:
     
    #222
  3. madspeed

    madspeed Colonel Mustard Mod Dude Founding Member

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    I'm no expert, but have read of all sorts of problems of metal fatigue when headers are wrapped in a turbo application, might want to look into this
     
    #223
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  4. RangerJoe

    RangerJoe Advanced Member

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    Yep, you are absolutely correct. I have read mixed reviews, some say bad idea, others say it worked out well. Here is my insane logic:

    My driveway is extremely steep, and I have had problems with my x-pipe dragging when I go up my driveway and into my level garage. I have my coil overs adjusted up just enough to prevent this. Now, I picked these headers up for $120, and put another $80 in them. I have measured the best I can, and I THINK they will clear. If they do, great. I'll rock these out for a few years, just long enough to get me through my new HCI combo. After all that expense has passed, I will look at a set of stainless or another set of ceramic coated, like my shorties now. If they don't clear, I'm sure I can get most my money back out of them.

    Joe
     
    #224
  5. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    I've always heard that too. It keeps too much heat "in" and promotes heat related metal fatigue on thin gauge stuff. Fortunately for me I used stuff that is coke bottle thick, and I do not intend to wrap the stuff that gets hot,.. I'm gonna wrap the stuff that I don't want to get hot.
     
    #225
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  6. madspeed

    madspeed Colonel Mustard Mod Dude Founding Member

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    in your case, i'm sure the extra thick walls would be the difference between cracking or burning through or not
     
    #226
  7. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    Gonna be rolling through your 'hood in b-ham today. I'll wave as we go haha
     
    #227
  8. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    Well,

    Spent the last the few days putting the final fit on the turbo system. I got the entire system built including the hotside, and the coldside. It still needs a bunch of detail work, (finish welding, grinding, and smoothing)

    As I said i would, I bought Chinese waste gates. They cost 70.00 ea. When they got here, I took them apart because I heard that they typically were full of excess debris from the machining process, with jaggedy pieces of metal just begging to snag the diaphragm.

    I'm here to tell you......they were right.

    Every hole that was drilled and tapped had burrs, the hole that was cut for the valve had significant flash that needed to be ground away. Now that that is done,...I left them "gutted" so I could weld w/o worrying about melting the diaphragm. I also heard that the springs were inaccurate,...and I had to check the actual rated pressure to be sure it was accurate. ( especially since I have two of them) I haven't done that yet, but this car is far from running, I'll cross that bridge when I get to it.

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    The rear waste gate placement pretty well means that the A/C system will definitely either have to be relocated, or eliminated. I planned on relocating the A/C lines before I even bought the turbo,..so it's just one more bump I gotta deal with.
    [​IMG]
    I decided to re route the coldside under the intake,..as there was no room for the front waste gate in my original plan. By clocking the turbo in this orientation, I gives me room for the waste gate, but will most assuredly force me to cut a hole in the hood, and there may be valve cover interference issues. But again, I'm building the valve cover, so I'll try to take that into consideration when that day comes. Clearly, I got two more holes to close up during the engine bay smoothing stage.
    [​IMG]

    I wanted to get this part behind me so I could start on the engine bay I got one more 3" hole to cut for the piping that comes out of the inter cooler going to the throttlebody, and my hole cutting days are done.
     
    #228
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  9. RacEoHolic330

    RacEoHolic330 I like to dress like a pretty girl SN Certified Technician

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    I love custom turbo piping. Gives me a chubby every time. I'm glad to see you went with dual wastegates. You have two very distinct collectors at the turbo flange, but you'll have excellent boost control with the way you have that setup. Good call on dumping the gates into the downpipe. I just hope those cheap ass gates last for you.
     
    #229
  10. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    As do I. The decision to buy them came after the feedback i got from bailing on the Chinee turbo. ( seemed there were those out there that weren't having all kinds of problems with that stuff)
    The three potential problems with the ebay gates are debris cutting the diaphragm, the valve sticking open/closed, or inaacurate boost or boost creep. I got # 1 fixed, I'll lube the valve w/ anti-sieze for #2, and the other is related to spring pressures. ( I may just buy a set of 5lb springs from Turbo Smart, and hope that they'll fit these T-smart clones to try and fix #3).
    I have my regrets with the choice to use steam pipe. That monster hanging on the side of the engine probably weighs 35-40 lbs. I just hope I can get it looking good enough to coat it silver/titanium. The way it is now,..it's slotted for flat black.
    At least I know I'll never have to worry about having to rebuild the bit ch again into the next decade tough.:nonono:
     
    #230
  11. 95BlueStallion

    95BlueStallion Well-Known Member

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    Its not like you are building this car to run a certain trap speed, so a little extra weight on the street will just help it ride nicer. It will also help balance out the 30-40 lbs youve been meaning to lose off the driver.
     
    #231
  12. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    Ill have you know that the 6' tall "driver" weighs 180 pounds fully clothed. I do not need to lose an ounce.
    As far as the car goes,..I agree. I was the one spouting off how adding weight to the notch I had last made it a more civil car to drive,....and this car starts even lighter than a 4 cylinder notch. I probably can add 200 pounds, and it'll still be lighter than a notch.
     
    #232
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2013
  13. rbohm

    rbohm Founding Member

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    a couple of things here, unless you have the low mount starter six, you cant use the V8 bell housing, unless you in fact build your own adapter, as none is available, unless you are planning to use a manual trans, in which case first try to search up a T4 trans bell housing from a fox body mustang with the 3.3, and you can use a T5 without an adapter.

    as for using turbos with the one barrel carbs, i wouldnt recommend doing that, you are limiting yourself too much. a better idea would be to use two CFI throttle bodies from a V6 or V8 mustang or Tbird, and run them with a megasquirt controller. the nice thing about doing this is that the CFI throttle bodies is that you can mount them in a side draft deal increasing hood clearance for the blow through bonnets.
     
    #233
  14. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    Dude, you read chapter one then skipped to the end of the story. The engine "evolved" to a 250, and now there is a megasquirt MSII in a box. If you are the same Rbohm that is on classic inlines, then you have commented to me there w/ respect to the same. Although all you had to do was read on here. the thread over there details the same. So,..no need for an adapter, or trying to blow through an emissions hobbled era one barrel carb.
     
    #234
    Last edited: Dec 2, 2013
  15. elarm1

    elarm1 Active Member

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    Got this thing started yet? Hurry up, I can't wait anymore!!!
     
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  16. madmike1157

    madmike1157 the humor is still lost on me SN Certified Technician

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    Man,..you are in for one hell of a long wait. I still have a bagillion things to do before the engine,..and most of it isn't even bought yet. I'm entering the "no-mo money" phase of the build. There are so many things that just require "sweat" in front of me, I'll have work for months to come.


    So........get a beer and cool out.
     
    #236
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  17. stangboy

    stangboy Founding Member

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    Really??? Hmmm...:chin
     
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  18. rbohm

    rbohm Founding Member

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    yeah, sometimes i get lazy and wont read the full twelve pages of responses, as they sometimes get rather tedious. and yes i am the same rbohm. i usually respond to the post though without trying to figure out the user name and where i might have seen it before, unless i remember answering the question before. but since i post on several forums, i sometimes even forget that as well.
     
    #238
  19. madspeed

    madspeed Colonel Mustard Mod Dude Founding Member

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    #239
  20. FordRacing302

    FordRacing302 Active Member

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    View: http://youtu.be/FWZd9Ry0vuU


    Your project reminds me a lot of this old first gen. He's using an aussie turbo 4.0 I6, but it's still a Ford motor...

    Anyways, I'm liking the progress so far.
     
    #240
    Last edited: Dec 3, 2013
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