The Reenmachine DOHC '67 Shelby Clone Convertible Progress
- Thread starter reenmachine
- Start date
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Finally got the real wheels & tires on the car and it looks sooooo much better. I just have to modify some '67 Shelby center caps to fit now and we'll be there. They're Michelin Pilot Sport A/S ZP (run flat) 245/45ZR17, and I've installed an electronic tire pressure monitoring system.
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70vert
New Member
Is the Heidt's a wider track?
Reen,
Those tires look a little farther out than I would expect 245s to look. Maybe it's just the camera angle. Does the Heidt's increase the rear track at all? This would throw a bit of a spanner in the works for me - I'm considering the Heidt's a bit down the road . . .
Joe
Reen,
Those tires look a little farther out than I would expect 245s to look. Maybe it's just the camera angle. Does the Heidt's increase the rear track at all? This would throw a bit of a spanner in the works for me - I'm considering the Heidt's a bit down the road . . .
Joe
The pic might be deceiving. The rear track is 58", just like stock. You can get it in pretty much anything you want. The wheels are 17x8, 4.5 BS.70vert said:
This is one of the better pressure monitoring systems out there -- I chose it because I can integrate the display more tastefully than the others.66Runt said:Couldn't have been any better on the way the rims "frame" the Wilwood calipers. Outstanding attention to detail.
Where did you come up with the pressure monitoring system?
Keep up the great progress!
Scott
http://www.vulcantire.com/smartire_pass_sys.htm
Reen. I've been following along with yours and SN65 builds, and to say the least I am quite impressed with each.
I will be going back home on vacation at the end of the summer to Vegas and Kingman AZ, and would like to stop by your shop and have a look at this in person.
Would that be possible and where are you located in Flag?
Thanks, keep up the excellent work!!
I will be going back home on vacation at the end of the summer to Vegas and Kingman AZ, and would like to stop by your shop and have a look at this in person.
Would that be possible and where are you located in Flag?
Thanks, keep up the excellent work!!
Charging System
OK -- I think I have this straight but I'd better run it by the panel to make sure.
The DOHC engine has a 4G alternator, which has a B+ lug and a 3-pin connector:
I'm planning on running the the B+ wire to the hot side of the starter solenoid, which is on the starter as this engine obviously has a late-model starter as well.
As for the 3-pin connector, the middle one isn't used with the 4G alternator. That one's easy.
The pin on the left (pin "A") is used to sense battery voltage. It looks like this can just be jumped to the B+ terminal like you do with a GM 1-wire alternator swap. Agree/disagree?
The pin on the right (pin "I" for ignition) is used to turn on the voltage regulator as well as to run the battery idiot light. I'll have a volts gauge so I'm not concerned with the idiot light function, but it looks like this one will still have to be hot when the key is in the "run" position.
I'll run 1-ga from the battery in the trunk to the lug on the starter solenoid and wire up the other solenoid terminal to a "hot on start" from the ignition switch (the one that would have gone to a regular solenoid). I'm running a couple of different grounding straps from the engine to the unibody, and with this EFI system the negative battery must run all the way up to the engine instead of just grounding in the trunk.
Whatcha think?
OK -- I think I have this straight but I'd better run it by the panel to make sure.
The DOHC engine has a 4G alternator, which has a B+ lug and a 3-pin connector:
I'm planning on running the the B+ wire to the hot side of the starter solenoid, which is on the starter as this engine obviously has a late-model starter as well.
As for the 3-pin connector, the middle one isn't used with the 4G alternator. That one's easy.
The pin on the left (pin "A") is used to sense battery voltage. It looks like this can just be jumped to the B+ terminal like you do with a GM 1-wire alternator swap. Agree/disagree?
The pin on the right (pin "I" for ignition) is used to turn on the voltage regulator as well as to run the battery idiot light. I'll have a volts gauge so I'm not concerned with the idiot light function, but it looks like this one will still have to be hot when the key is in the "run" position.
I'll run 1-ga from the battery in the trunk to the lug on the starter solenoid and wire up the other solenoid terminal to a "hot on start" from the ignition switch (the one that would have gone to a regular solenoid). I'm running a couple of different grounding straps from the engine to the unibody, and with this EFI system the negative battery must run all the way up to the engine instead of just grounding in the trunk.
Whatcha think?
reenmachine said:
I think your best bet would be to use as much of the DOHC-Donor harness as possible. I have a 1-wire alternator and a latemodel starter (which supercedes the old style fender-mount solenoid), but I simply have a big old B+ terminal on the alternator. Seeing that connector tells me you're gonna want the other end, but when I see all those wires outside the car I just get all fuzzy.
Anyhow, I don't know if it will work for you or not but all of my aftermarket-style wiring diagrams are on this page:
http:\\www.edbert.net\painless.htm
Hope they help.
SN65
Member
Hi Reen,reenmachine said:
Ahhhhh!!!! A speaker guy. That explains a lot.
When building a speaker cab. the heavier / denser the better.
It looks great. Can't wait to see the end results.
Bob
SN65
Member
Hi Reen,reenmachine said:Here's what's been keeping me busy lately -- and bringing in a new crop of grey hair! I'm completely custom wiring the 4.6. I totally understand it at this point, which is the culmination of about 10 months of research...
This is EXACTLY why I am using the 03 harness, etc. It is not that I was afraid of wiring it up. It is because I was afraid of frying an expensive component and all the resulting trouble shooting envolved.
Good luck with all that. I will be interested in hearing ALL the details (good bad and otherwise).
Bob
I actually prefer it this way. Perhaps it's some sort of masochistic flaw.SN65 said:
I just like to understand what each and every thing does and exactly how it does it. It's actually not all that complicated, it just looks like it.
Why run the negative cable all the way from the battery to the engine?
What made you decide on dual full length cables, rather than running a negative from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the starter case?
Are you wanting to isolate the ECU sensor "earths" from the negative portion of the starting/charging circuit?
The reason I ask is that in my experience it is usually the high amp draw circuits that develope problems. I've always been of the mindset that I want the cleanest, shortest, largest path for the high amp draw circuits. So I'm very interested to get your thoughts as they seem oposite to mine.
Running full length positive and negative cables and staying at no more than 0.2V voltage drop at 200+ amps is going to require some decent size cable, and a proper technique to swedge the cable lugs.
FWIW:
Your local industrial battery company can make up a nice looking (and functioning) set for you. They've got all sizes of cable in both red and black, the proper size lugs, as well as the proper tool (and knowledge) to swedge the cable lugs, which is very important for longevity.
Thanks, I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this.
Scott
What made you decide on dual full length cables, rather than running a negative from the battery to the frame and from the frame to the starter case?
Are you wanting to isolate the ECU sensor "earths" from the negative portion of the starting/charging circuit?
The reason I ask is that in my experience it is usually the high amp draw circuits that develope problems. I've always been of the mindset that I want the cleanest, shortest, largest path for the high amp draw circuits. So I'm very interested to get your thoughts as they seem oposite to mine.
Running full length positive and negative cables and staying at no more than 0.2V voltage drop at 200+ amps is going to require some decent size cable, and a proper technique to swedge the cable lugs.
FWIW:
Your local industrial battery company can make up a nice looking (and functioning) set for you. They've got all sizes of cable in both red and black, the proper size lugs, as well as the proper tool (and knowledge) to swedge the cable lugs, which is very important for longevity.
Thanks, I look forward to hearing your thoughts on this.
Scott
Pretty much. The EFI system on the 4.6 apparently is sensitive to very small voltage deltas with respect to the sensor outputs. It kept coming up from various sources that it's key to run the battery ground to the block, and then run multiple ground straps to the unibody from there.66Runt said:
You're right, It does require a clean electrical system.
Sometimes I wonder how many people are fighting their own inabilities to properly diagnose the basics, so they end up band-aiding other issues and never really "fixing" the initial problem.
Well one thing for sure, by using the proper size and prepared cables you'll limit things to a single point of failure on the negative side, and that's always a good thing. When the lucky person who buys this incredible car get's it serviced, you're keeping things very simple for the technician.
Neat project, I'm enjoying following along.
Thanks for responding,
Scott
Sometimes I wonder how many people are fighting their own inabilities to properly diagnose the basics, so they end up band-aiding other issues and never really "fixing" the initial problem.
Well one thing for sure, by using the proper size and prepared cables you'll limit things to a single point of failure on the negative side, and that's always a good thing. When the lucky person who buys this incredible car get's it serviced, you're keeping things very simple for the technician.
Neat project, I'm enjoying following along.
Thanks for responding,
Scott
