Engine This guy needs the help of this forum

Mcmahst

Active Member
Jan 19, 2021
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Upland, ca fort Mohave, az
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I did so we will see if they take any of the advice. Some of the responses in that thread were of the holy f*ck type. Way too much check this and check that rather than a methodical approach but hopefully he will swing by here and get some more technical help. I am no guru but wow some of those guys need to hold back on the "advise".
 
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Yeah, I'm not reading through all of that especially after:

I did so we will see if they take any of the advice. Some of the responses in that thread were of the holy f*ck type. Way too much check this and check that rather than a methodical approach but hopefully he will swing by here and get some more technical help. I am no guru but wow some of those guys need to hold back on the "advise".
:lol:

I recommend sending him a PM and telling him to start an account here with a [new] thread.


Start over.
 
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He's on the right track, but it's a struggle to get there with some of the folks throwing random things out there.

Step 1 is dump codes, along with cylinder balance test procedure. A smoke test would be nice as well.


Looks like he did that.
54O - “Intake Air charge temperature sensor circuit open; vane air flow sensor out of range”
79O - “Air Conditioner ‘On’ during Self-Test / defrost on”
81O - “Air diverter solenoid fault, intake air control circuit fault / air injection diverter”
82O - “Air diverter solenoid circuit fault or supercharger bypass circuit fault” / “Integrated relay control module”
22C - “Manifold Absolute Pressure or BARO sensor out of range”
54C - Same as 54O (“Intake Air charge temperature sensor circuit open; vane air flow sensor out of range”)

Of these codes, the 54 and 22 are the ones I would focus on that would cause his issues.

81 and 82 can be ignored. 79 doesn't mean much.


Also, his BAP sensor is connected to the intake manifold vac, but he's running a C3W mass air ecu. He needs to remove that vac line. I bet if he solves that and the ACT issue the car will run much better.
 
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Also....why was this done to a stock HO intake??

1704897133848.png
 
Not certain but I believe this is an attempt to fit the efi intake into the early Falcon/Mustang engine bay with power brakes. Greatly f's up the air intake volume/flow

I would have tossed a 1/2" spacer on it instead to lift it up.

The reduction in plenum volume concerns me, as well as starving the front and rear cylinder.
 
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I told him to just get an Explorer upper and lower and get rid of it. I think somebody got cute as there appear to be room for the stock intake as I have seen them on other 65-67 cars with no mods.
 
I didn't read the comments here and i saw that intake, thought it was some kinda curved camera filter.
If that's a modified stock intake, i wouldn't even bother troubleshooting anything else with it in place.
I never cut open a factory intake, but i can't imagine its good.
While i'm not a fan of short runner intakes on a stock engine, anything has to be better that whatever that thing is.
 
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What’s sad is that AeroCoupe gave him the best advice money couldn’t buy, and he is still wasting his time over at VMF with hairbrain ideas, instead of resolving the two codes he got from the ECU. I sent him a PM recommendation: take it to one of the 2 know shops in his neighborhood who know these cars and let them fix it. He told me he’s considering it. I also told him to take a few more level pics of the intake so we can get a better look at the unusual setup.
 
It’s a one off by someone that had/has no clue about airflow. I suggested he get an Explorer upper and lower. By the pictures and from the 65-67 Mustangs with Fox Mustang EFI swaps I’ve seen there was no reason to cut the intake down because the stock fit with no issues.
 
if his skill level is not high I would probably suggest picking up a standard HO intake and starting from there.

I don’t mean that as a “clean up the bay” suggestion, but rather a serious suggestion as it could also be a cause of the issues he is experiencing related to poor fuel economy. He might have uneven volumetric efficiency to each cylinder which is screwing up the air/fuel mixture.
 
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ACT sensor is already relocated to the tube between the TB and MAF so the Explorer upper and lower would work. I think it has GT40 heads (crate motor) which is why I suggested them.