Titanium Retainers

Discussion in '1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-' started by 85rkyboby, Aug 4, 2014.


  1. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Hey guys,

    I am looking to order some of the Trick Flow TW 11R's and I see that for an extra $100 you can get the option of Titanium Retainers. I did a search where I found people talking about them, but nothing stating when you should be running them. I'm just trying to figure out if it's worth spending the extra $100 for them. Are they for only high rev applications or is it more to do with strengthening the valvetrain? Are they worth it on a street application or strictly drag? Just some info on the subject would be great guys.

    Thanks,
    Garrick A.R.
     
    #1
  2. Bullitt347

    Bullitt347 man bewbs please...

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    Save your money. I doubt that on a street engine you would see a benefit. If you are going to spin at a much higher rpm, then the reduced weight of the titanium retainer could be a plus. But when titanium retainers are used, valve spring pressures, valve weight, rocker arm choice and pushrod selection all come into play not to mention camshaft selection. That is why conical valve springs have gained popularity. It is all about controlling mass and preventing valve bounce/spring oscillation ect when spinning a bunch of rpm. It is also why overhead cam engines have a superior ability to spin at a much higher rpm than pushrod engines can. Not to mention controlling cam timing events ect.
     
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  3. srtthis

    srtthis the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

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    just saves weight...
     
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  4. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Thanks, guys. I will keep looking at it. The car will see some strip time. All the above "mods" will be taken into consideration. Spring pressures, valve weight, rocker arm selection, etc.
     
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  5. srtthis

    srtthis the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

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    i guess i should add to my "just saves weight" it saves weight on the valve spring. run titanium everything in the nitrous car and titanium everything minus the exhaust valves which are iconel. it allows the spring to do a better job controlling the valves at high RPM
     
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  6. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Thanks for the extra words. I will be running nitrous, not sure how much yet. I think I will spend the extra $50(per head) for them. $100 isn't much compared to all the other parts cost.
     
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  7. srtthis

    srtthis the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

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    yea we turn some crazy RPM so we need everything we can get to help the springs. with the nitrous cam being just short of an inch of lift we need some crazy springs to begin with
     
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  8. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    @srtthis Haha holy crap! What's your spring seat pressure?! Will the titanium retainers be helpful if I'm running alot of nitrous and not revving to high(below 6500)? I'm still working out the valvetrain setup for this motor, but I figure if it's a internal balanced motor. Mine as well give it a little more than 6500.
     
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  9. srtthis

    srtthis the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

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    if your staying below 6500 i wouldnt worry about it...

    IIRC its some where around 340lbs on the seat
     
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  10. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    LOL 340lbs holy crap!
     
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  11. RangerJoe

    RangerJoe Advanced Member

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    I would confer with a good cam grinder regarding this. Really, the spring pressures, rpm and cam profile are going to determine what you need. I would figure out that stuff first, and then see if it is needed. I money isn't a problem, then go for it. It won't harm anything. Just remember, if the springs on the head won't work for your cam, an you have to buy new springs, you may end up needing different retainers, and havig to buy twice. This is why I recommend figuring out the entire combo first.

    Joe
     
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  12. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Thanks Joe,
    I'm actually going to be getting my cam from Woody @fordstrokers. I will contact him about it when I receive my DIY short block. I was just trying to get an idea of when they are needed and the pros/cons of them. Thanks guys.
     
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  13. hoopty5.0

    hoopty5.0 Mustang Master

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    Are these DIY short blocks where they send you the machined/balanced parts and you assemble it? Seems like a good marketing ploy by them to shorten their lead times.
     
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  14. 85rkyboby

    85rkyboby Active Member

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    Yes sir, sure is. they run about a grand cheaper than just buying the short block assembled. Lead time for an assembled Short Block is 7-9 months, DIY Short Block 8-10 weeks.
     
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  15. 84Ttop

    84Ttop They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
    SN Certified Technician Mod Dude

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    9 months for a motor????? Holy Cow!!
     
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  16. A5literMan

    A5literMan Mustang Master

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    Woody told me about 6 months. Still not much better. That is for a Dart SHP block/TFS 205cc/forged assembly/custom cam/pan,etc w/intake and extras 12k? (363)
     
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  17. 84Ttop

    84Ttop They make new pistons every day, so why worry?
    SN Certified Technician Mod Dude

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    12k$ sounds right, you really rack up the dollars quick at that level... Ask me how I know.. lol
     
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  18. srtthis

    srtthis the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

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    yea 12K sounds right...
     
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  19. srtthis

    srtthis the guy doing it does every local racers rear end

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    for a few grand more i know where there is a bad ass SBF that will make more power then you'll ever want ;)
     
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  20. Gearbanger 101

    Gearbanger 101 Straight Outta Locash
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    Heck....it took CHP 7-weeks just to put my rotating assembly together......and they were still missing pieces by the delivery date.


    ....what a fight that was. :nonono:
     
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