Unisteer rack & pinion difference
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Hi,
The difference (increased effort) is going to show up in low speed maneuvers, as in parking. Also, the amount of caster you run will affect the turning effort with manual units. Powered units will obviously negate a lot of the low speed effort. I'm running a TCP manual unit and like the "at speed" road feel and stability. My caster is 1.5-2.0., as I recall. I didn't go with the powered unit, as I didn't want the additional power junk hanging off the block, not, to mention any potential for leaks.
Good Luck!
How difficult is it to turn when you arent moving? Is it a "two handed" effort? I had a manual steering box I put on my old camaro and it was pretty tough when parking or any other low speed maneuver. Like you I don't want the hoses (I currently have the factory power steering) but I drive this car for pleasure, not sport and do appreciate the assist of the power. Just wish i could drive one before I bought one! Unfortunately when you live in the sticks like I do, not a lot of options.
Hi,
It is tough(er), obviously. And..., made worse by my 225X60X15 BFGs too, as they add more road resistance, especially when parking. However, I look at this way, I spend 80-90% at speeds above parking.
I guess too, I like more steering input and road feed back, which, is dampened by pwr steering. But, the R&P is super for precise steering.
Happy Trails!
So I did, and got an answer that the # 8001090-01 is a improved version which clears headers and manual transmission. I did not get any answer on the huge price difference.
Going from memory here, I think the newer version uses a totally different rack and bracket and it eliminates the issues they had with headers. I have the manual "New version" on my 65 and I like it. I wish it had one less turn lock-to-lock, but in a parking lot my wife can drive it (And shes a girl...)
FWIW I got mine from Summit for $775 shipped!
i had issues with the manual unisteer rack having a slight bind in the u -joint when turning lock to lock.
The main difference, if I understand correctly, between the newer and older version is the bracket holding the steering arms. On the older version the steering arms are connected directly to the rack, and not via any additional bracket. This makes the older version more robust and reliable in my view. I asked this question to unisteer, but they don't want to answer.
The only reason for the additional bracket is to clear the headers and manual transmisson. Correct me if I'm wrong.
Which version of the rack did you have issues with?
Hi,
I had similar issues (slight binding) when running a F/R unit through no fault of their rack. I "played" with the adjustment of the connective rods and was able to "dial" it out. So, you might want to re-visit that aspect.
Good luck!
The unit I have uses the new "Center takeoff design" that connects the tie rods to the center of the rack.
Here is a pic I found on line that looks like my 65 rack.
Note where the splined input shaft is located on both, this was the issue with the steering shaft and headers on the original.
The older design used this style with the tie rods coming out of the ends, as you can see it is a totally different design.
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The car is in the air, but with the suspension loaded. But that should not matter for the problem with the u-joints.
Unisteer is stating that the u-joints must be phased 90deg. However Steeroids states that they should be installed the same way, otherwise the shaft will get the shape of and S, which can cause binding. I will dismount everything and follow the Steeroids instruction. Let's see if it helps.
Unisteer is stating that the u-joints must be phased 90deg. However Steeroids states that they should be installed the same way, otherwise the shaft will get the shape of and S, which can cause binding. I will dismount everything and follow the Steeroids instruction. Let's see if it helps.
It can be dealt with by adjusting the colum. I make sure the pivots are all loose and make sure the outer colum is loose and start tightening with the bottom boot on the splines. Then have someone pull on the steering wheel to keep clearance between the chrome shaft and the lower portion of that pivot. I also had to grind a bit on my shaft to knock the corners off, I think I also did that to the corners on my lower pivot. Not a bunch, just some.
Its really just an issue with stacked tolerances.
I don't think you can install these pivots wrong?
Its really just an issue with stacked tolerances.
I don't think you can install these pivots wrong?
I have tried with the u-joints 90 deg out of phase, and in-phase. In-phase gave an improvement, but still not good. After laying under the car and rotating the shaft trying to figure out where it moves heavier and where lighter, I then rotated the upper u-joint 3-4 splines. That did not give any better or worse result.
I have tried to adjust the column up and down, in many different locations. I have put shims between the rack and frame to change the angle on the joint.
Maybe I should make a note there is no metal contact anywhere. You just feel a small difference when turning the steering wheel, that at some points (90 deg) turning gets slightly heavier, and at some point lighter.
Maybe it should be like this? Is it impossible to get it perfect??
I have tried to adjust the column up and down, in many different locations. I have put shims between the rack and frame to change the angle on the joint.
Maybe I should make a note there is no metal contact anywhere. You just feel a small difference when turning the steering wheel, that at some points (90 deg) turning gets slightly heavier, and at some point lighter.
Maybe it should be like this? Is it impossible to get it perfect??
I can tell you with mine I had a thump, it was the u-joints touching slightly, I now remember I did grind a bit on the edges of the lower pivot because it is a bit too steep an angle if you ask me. If you put some black magic market on the ends of the lower pivots top half and then rotate it the marker will rub off where contact is made. I did not see it right away, but it was there.
Another thing you may want to check is the rack itself, unhook the shaft and raise the car and turn it by hand and see if the drag is caused by the inside of the rack, mine also had a bit of a tight spot but it went away after a few hundred miles.
Another thing you may want to check is the rack itself, unhook the shaft and raise the car and turn it by hand and see if the drag is caused by the inside of the rack, mine also had a bit of a tight spot but it went away after a few hundred miles.
I installed the early rack several years ago. I fought the u joint bind for several hours before it worked smoothly, then had to modify 1 tube on the headers. Looking at the picture of the late design, there should be little if any problems with u joints as the pinion is much closer to where the original box was mounted. It appears to be a take off from a GM J car rack, just not power assisted
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