Upgrading heads on 04 GT
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okay Kg, tell me then.What should my next logical mod be.Keep in mind that L/T's and cams will be on the way soon.I got nothing left but FI or nosKilgore Trout said:I guess I do not understand why you are so keen on replacing your heads. This is not something that you hear a lot of people doing except on NPI cars. With your list of mods, heads does not seem to me like the next logical and cost effective stepMaybe I am missing something...?
that graph that steda guy was posting does not even make sense for a lt-1 car.. the power drops off at too low of rpm and too fast.. maybe a lightly supercharged npi 4.6 ???
that was my 01 steeda last year.. I dont know, maybe a f'ed up Dyno .. We will see when I get my car back.. I will put it back on that machine and 1 other... I think the other is a mustang. I am just going by the numbers i have.
http://www.sportsnimports.com/galleries/data/540/53mdd_020-med.jpg
there she is on the dyno... why do i keep arguing this sheesh
.. We will see when I get my car back.. I will put it back on that machine and 1 other... I think the other is a mustang. I am just going by the numbers i have.http://www.sportsnimports.com/galleries/data/540/53mdd_020-med.jpg
there she is on the dyno... why do i keep arguing this sheesh
.. i guess you didnt read about the heads cams and now forged block??
hotmustang331
Active Member
Problem is dude, YOUR A NEWB! You come in here posting crazy #s, now once you get a little slack you have a forged SB going in next week or whatever lol. Just sounds like someone who is making stuff up. And yep with no LT headers your not going to be making THAT much power. I too say 300-305RWHP MAX. After your built motor (sure) you will hit about 320-325 at best.
hotmustang331
Active Member
if your talking to me.. yes i will have Nitrous.. I havent had it until now.. but after the car is done I will.
And I understand I am a newb here.. I have been a lurker for a long time and wanted some help deciding on an engine so i finally joined. You may be right man, I might have gotten a bad Dyno.. but I am just saying what I have been shown.
Lets look at this another way since my car is under the knife right now. I know calculators are just estimates and tools to be used, but look at an estimator for a 3700LB car (which is what mine weighs with me in it). To cut a 13.6 it says you need about 290 Crank HP. Take the 15% loss and you end up with 246. I dont know.. you have me second guessing, but everything in my car points to the Dyno was right. When I had that Dyno, I had not yet had a tune, and My car did fall on its face in the upper RPM.. turned out I was WAAAYYY lean. After the tune it ran better up top.
but here are some links about the ET/HP argument
My run http://members.cox.net/joseph.kennedy/spike_5.wmv (edit to add correct file)
my timeslip for the 13.66 http://members.cox.net/pitbull23/1366timeslip.jpg
and a link to a calc http://www.modularfords.com/calculators.php?c=5
I know this is all talk until i get the car back and on a dyno... but hey thats what a forum is for, talk.
And I understand I am a newb here.. I have been a lurker for a long time and wanted some help deciding on an engine so i finally joined. You may be right man, I might have gotten a bad Dyno.. but I am just saying what I have been shown.
Lets look at this another way since my car is under the knife right now. I know calculators are just estimates and tools to be used, but look at an estimator for a 3700LB car (which is what mine weighs with me in it). To cut a 13.6 it says you need about 290 Crank HP. Take the 15% loss and you end up with 246. I dont know.. you have me second guessing, but everything in my car points to the Dyno was right. When I had that Dyno, I had not yet had a tune, and My car did fall on its face in the upper RPM.. turned out I was WAAAYYY lean. After the tune it ran better up top.
but here are some links about the ET/HP argument
My run http://members.cox.net/joseph.kennedy/spike_5.wmv (edit to add correct file)
my timeslip for the 13.66 http://members.cox.net/pitbull23/1366timeslip.jpg
and a link to a calc http://www.modularfords.com/calculators.php?c=5
I know this is all talk until i get the car back and on a dyno... but hey thats what a forum is for, talk.
btw.. here is a guy with close to the same mods.. same numbers.
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?p=409306#post409306
http://www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/showthread.php?p=409306#post409306
billfisher
Active Member
Mustanggt108 said:
yes. they bolt on. you need some other parts with it.
of course cams,valve covers, front cover, make adapter plates for your exhaust manifolds/headers,intake manifold,TB from 351w with idle circuit and 1/4" adapter plate. we aren't talking pennies, but if you are going to spend 1500.00 or more then wait for them to hit boneyards or e-bay and make 05 power.
hotmustang331
Active Member
all you did was find another guy who strapped his car down on an innaccurate dyno. take a look at his three runs.242/313
245/354
246/316
Now you just dont gain 40RWTQ out of the blue lol. That dyno was also jacked. these cars have a VERY simular patter when stock/mildly modded. These cars just dont vary that much, they are designed to be very consistent. And they are.
yeah i thought that was kinda fishy.. I dunno.. I hope I am right lol... but even if I end up with 300 to 315.. I am still going to be happy. I found a mustang Dyno close by today. I'll use him next time. I got a question. I bought a block with flat tops that is suppose to bring me to around 10:1... how much boost, if I decided to go that route could I safely run intercooled? I have heard alot of conflicting stories.
