Upgrading The Suspension

I keep hearing that's a really good idea to upgrade your suspension. So what should I get and can I do one piece at a time? That way I'm not killing the bank account all at once. The car had Eibach lowering springs on it when I got the car.

Thanks for any advice in advance. I'm thankful you guys don't treat me like crap for asking questions such as this :D
 
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Just re-did mine. Already had my Eibach springs, but was running stock shocks/struts. Also already had the MM CC plates.

Added Eibach Pro-Dampers on all 4 corners, MM rear LCAs, and subframes.

It handles like a totally different car. Take care of your dampers first, to get those matched up to your lowering springs. Then I'd go to the LCAs. All of that you can do yourself with minimal tools. Subframes you'll have to farm out, unless you've got your own welder, so they'll cost more. I can't tell you what will give you best bang for your buck, between LCAs or subframes, but the damping difference is EXTREMELY noticeable, and probably the best SOTP improvement from what you're running now.

I'm sure there more exotic improvements will make an even bigger difference, but for what I do with my car, I can't see doing much more for a street car.
 
Why is it cheaper? For labor reasons?

Daniel

Yes for labor reasons. Subframe connectors are not included in that tho. For the others, you will be going back into the same area multiple times...which means paying for the same labor multiple times. But with labor, shocks/struts/control arms you are looking at almost $1,000. Changing these things out is so simple...unbolt....bolt back in....i'd say to do it yourself. Which drastically reduces the cost.


Since you dont want to do it all at once, i'd say do the shocks/struts. Then do either subframes or the rear upper/lower control arms. Then do whichever one u havent done yet.


Make sure you get full length subframe connectors. If you're on a local "car" board, ask those guys for a recommended shop. Otherwise get some full length subframes from Maximum Motorsports and get them welded on. Make sure the shop puts the cars on a "drive on" ramp...the suspension needs to be loaded before welding on the subframes. :nice:
 
Yes for labor reasons. Subframe connectors are nBut with labor, shocks/struts/control arms you are looking at almost $1,000. Changing these things out is so simple...unbolt....bolt back in....i'd say to do it yourself. Which drastically reduces the cost.

Just if your doing it yourself soak the bolts with a lube or rust remover, take it from me not doing that can really hurt.

I ended up punching my inner wheel well when the bolt finally let loose. :mad:
 
Yeah I'll definitely hit up discount tire for an alignment when I'm done.

I must admit this is the most I've worked on a car, but I've already learned a bunch from this forum. I actually just replaced my wheel hub last week, and I got the info from right here. So thanks gents!

Daniel
 
Everytime you tear up the front suspension you have to do an alignment on the car. So even if you do it yourself, you're out the cost of an alignment. Unless you do your own alignments.

Kurt

If all you're doing is new struts, I don't think an alignment is necessary...

Just replaced mine, didn't do the alignment. Checked here for the consensus, which supported my theory, and so far SOTP/tire wear confirms that I didn't need it.

Thinking: Struts shouldn't change steering geometry, since they just dampen the movement of the a-arms. Changing SPRINGS will effect steering geometry/alignment, since you're changing ride height.

Am I missing something?

Now, if you add some CC plates, THEN you definitely need an alignment. At that point, I'd recommend doing some homework, to find out who the local speed shops and boards recommend for aligning a modified suspension. I would NEVER let a random chain store do my alignment. Around here, I go to the BMW dealer--they've got the best machine in town, a technician who knows how to run it well, and they're the shop of choice for all the car guys I've talked to.